Xida service & installation videos
 

Gen 2 assembly


Gen 1 assembly


Billet Coaxial Mount installation


Gen 2 detent mechanism "clicker" replacement


Gen 1 detent mechanism "clicker"replacement

So, I'm going on a couple of years abusing mine. Any rules of thumb for when I should be thinking about rebuilds? Car continues to drive really well.

Track hooning 200hrs.
Chasing national championships 100hrs.
Street driving, pretty much never

or if they start losing damping or if they start leaking and you have to turn the damping up to keep the same level of performance.

At the level of track/autocross I plan on doing, that is nearly 20 years...

What causes the quicker wear with the track/race use? Is it driving over the little concrete things at the corners?

Watched the detent mechanism video. My gen 2's only have 16 positions (15 clicks). Could this be a detent adjustment error?

Driving over curbing, transferring from 1.4G load left to 1.4G right and then back again in a few seconds, hard brake diving every 9 seconds, tank slappers when you fuck up, mowing grass when you really fuck up, and doing this over and over again for dozens of miles at a time.

Vs

Driving across Kansas on i70 and not compressing a shock once for a few hundred miles.

Those are the two extremes of course. Chasing nationals means the car is constantly on the bleeding edge. DE 4 hooning is a tick down from that with less aggressive tires and typically less aggressive driving (those 2/10ths don't matter right now). Street driving puts a surprising many factors less wear on everything. There's a reason street tires are rated for 60k mile runs and some track tires are rated in the dozens depending on use.

Thank you for the clicker adjustment video. My Xidas have a really mushy 19th click and judging by this video a very small adjustment will make it perfect.

Needs more shouting, more backwards ballcaps, and more use of the words "sick" and "bro."

I am taking care of that video for Emilio.

Ahh that makes a ton of sense. Someone competing is going to be running the stickiest and widest tires possible. I've never run anything more aggressive than dot legal r compounds nor sacrificed the car's longevity in the name of fractions of a second.

Heat

I keep re-watching trying to figure out how to go full hard
Also trying to find where these stack up on a scale of sickest to most diseased

The parts where I warn the viewer not to touch the nitrogen port or bottom body locking collar, ignore that for full hard race A spec RR

What stage are these sick coilovers?

Stage 949, just make sure you get a retune before racing so you don't blow your welds on your intake

Maybe I'm having a false memory, but didn't Gen I XIDA's have a lifetime warranty? Do Gen 2?

I know this is pretty off topic but I just got my Gen 2's in with the coaxial mounts. Where can I find recommended ride height/alignment specs?

Alignment specs are on 949Racing.com if you google for them. Approximately 3 turns of the collar equals 1/4".

Right on thanks man

So I noticed the alignment specs don't mention how high the rear should be. I've heard it's a good rule of thumb to have the rear be half an inch higher than the front but i'll be measuring from the pinch welds. What's the best way to go about measuring this?

Read the alignment specs again. Specifically the sections about rake.

Oh wow, now I see it. :facepalm:

So I spent a good amount of time adjusting the ride height of my car, after going on a somewhat aggressive drive they dropped a bit. Around 1/8th of an inch on each corner. My question is, how many miles should I put on the coilovers before I can safely say they're broke in and settled enough to not drop down after adjusting them?

The shocks do not break in or settle. That's your measuring technique. If you have OEM rubber bushings, it's tricky to get the car to fully settle in between adjustments. Have to roll it back and forth a bit. That's why we use hubstands and bounce on it.

Interesting, any idea why the height changed after driving?

He just told you. The stock rubber bushings tend to bind when you change the ride height of the car, and only by rolling the car back and forth a bit, or in your case going for a drive, do they "reset" to their neutral position. This is why you noticed a change in ride height after driving the car.

Gotcha. So now that my ride height is set-up properly I've noticed that the gaps between the tire and wheel well are different in the back. My back right wheel gap seems a bit larger than my back left wheel gap even though the measurements from the pinch welds to the group are basically identical. I'm assuming I should trust the pinch weld measurement but I'm just curious as to why the wheel gaps are different. Perhaps the fenders were rolled poorly?

We have not measured fender height on any car in our shop in probably half a decade.

Okay, so it's probably safe to assume my fenders are just pulled/rolled poorly?

Youre trying to measure from a piece of metal thats somewhere between 2 to 3 decades old. The ground from which youre measuring on (read: not level) could be a factor and throwing off your measurements. Or you being in/getting out of the car can also be a factor. Or fenders are misrolled.

Stop worrying about it.