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Upgrading to Coil on Plugs (all years) COP writeup
11 Attachment(s)
Installing COPs
original discussion here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4756/ Parts required: Set of Toyota 1ZZ-FE 1.8L 2000+ Coils $50-75 (many others work) 90080-19015 90919-02239 90080-19023 90919-02234 Optional Part Required: Spare ignitor (1.6L only) 1K resistor (Standalone ECU installs only - jump IG- to B+ in the diagnostics box if you have no tach in your gauge cluster) 10,000uF capacitor (install on 12v and GND) .070-.110" spades for connection to coils Genuine Coil Connectors with wires cut from harness DIY Toyota Coil connectors & Contacts $30 Toyota P/N 90980-11885 for the coil connector www.partznet.com (Housing Only) Housing only, housing with terminals, housing with terminals and pigtails: Ballenger Motorsports www.spoolinup.com If you choose to crimp your own pigtail, this is the proper tool: Tools Required:http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/364 Wires, solder, snipers, etc. Aftermarket ECU owners: dwell these at 3.5ms cranking, 2.5ms at 12v Wiring Diagrams: by: Lazzer408 This is pretty self explainatory 1.6L Schematics: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 1.8L 94-95 Schematics https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 1.8L '95.5+ Schematics https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 1 ground 2 trigger 3 tach 4 +12V Proceedure: 1.6L only: two options for wiring the coils from the start. 1. cut your ignitor connector and wire straight from there. 2. open your ignitor up and wire directly off the pins for a PnP solution. 1. 2. Flip ignitor over, top side down. Drill 2 small holes near edge. Holes look like a big spider bite. Insert small pliers (I used a surgical hemostat) into holes and clamp. Slowly pull metal bottom plate away from the plastic body. It is simply siliconed in place and will come free. Carefully break the solder joints between the terminal pins and circuit board. Drill a hole at the rear end of the ignitor for the wires to pass through, proceed to solder directly onto the pins. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 The rest is easy. make a harness to length according to the diagrams. 1.8Ls have ignitors directly on the coil packs, so use the wiring from there. That's it. simple simple.The plugs will vibrate up off the valve cover if you don't fasten them to it. You can still drive the car, but doing so for an extended period of time will cause some problems. This parts up to you how you'd like to do it. Examples: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 |
Ok here's how I mounted mine:
making the plate is extremely simple. I used 22g alumin. (pretty thin but good for the job) got a sheet for $3.99 4 nuts and bolts m6x40 1" hole saw ruler http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops_plate.jpg I didn't take precise measurements, but that shows you what to do. 1. Put a bit grease on each of the three valve cover bolt holes and lay the 1.5"x15" strip down. This marks the positon of each to drill out. 2. Once drilled, measure from each hole made for the spark plug holes. Very simple, something like 1.25" away center to center. Mark each spot on your strip and drill with the hole saw. 3. Once done, lay the strip back down on the valve cover. Inser thte COPs into the holes. Spin however you want them facing. Mark the position of the tabs with a pencil or drillbit or something. Drill. 4. Finished. Insert the M6 bol up through the mounting holes from underneath. Bolt the strip down with the valve cover bolts. Insert the COPs into the holes and onto the bolts. Insert the nuts and tighten. The end. http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops_plate_screws.jpg don't laugh at that drawing. here are my final results: http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops001.jpg http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops002.jpg http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops003.jpg http://www.boostedmiata.com/cops/cops004.jpg |
I've added a better source for the connectors to the writeup above. There you can buy connectors with pigtails already ready, or a kit with the proper terminals/weather seals, or just the housings. They also have the proper tool for crimping these terminals.
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added another source for connectors - thanks 99mx5
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 152397)
Optional Part Required:
1K resistor (Standalone ECU installs only - jump IG- to B+ in the diagnostics box if you have no tach in your gauge cluster)
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 152397)
10,000uF capacitor (install on 12v and GND)
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 152397)
1.8L '95.5+ Schematics
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 1 ground 2 trigger 3 tach 4 +12V Proceedure: The rest is easy. make a harness to length according to the diagrams. 1.8Ls have ignitors directly on the coil packs, so use the wiring from there. That's it. simple simple. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327066127 Another Example: LS2 Coils The LS2 coil-near-plug coils are similar in form and function to the LS1 coils described above. This 'family' of coils includes:
We will call the second coil type the LS2/truck coil. These two types of coil have the same connector and pin-out, but the physical mounting pattern is different. The coil connector (GM# 12580353) can be found as:
The LS2 coil has 4 connections (as well as the high tension terminal for the spark plug wire, of course):
The two capacitors are optional but recommended. The 1.0 µF capacitor on the +12V is helpful, it is similar to the one used on EDIS. What it does is provide brief energy storage for the discharge. The other capacitor will help eliminate back-fed noise to the MegaSquirt controller. Use a 100 pF to 0.001 µF cap on the TTL trigger input wire to ground. What this does is shunt extremely fast noise spikes to ground and not let them feed back to the MegaSquirt processor. The added capacitance is minimal - with the series resistance of 1,000 ohms (in the controller) and a 100 pF capacitor the RC 3dB time constant is 2πR × C = 0.6 microseconds. The LS2 built in coil igniters (the amplifier that drives the coil's primary current based on the sequencer signal) will follow the sequencer signal pulse width. When the signal from the sequencer is high (3 to 5+ Volts - with very little current from the controller, a few dozen milliAmps), the coil current will be building. When the signal from the sequencer is pulled low (shut off), the coil will spark. The duration of the signal from the sequencer determines the dwell (though the coil igniter limits this to no more than ~8 milliseconds). The maximum dwell should be set at 4.5 milliseconds - going longer does not generate any more spark energy. To get 4.0 milliseconds of running dwell, the nominal dwell parameters should be set to: Maximum Dwell 4.5 milliseconds Maximum Spark Duration 2.0 milliseconds Acceleration Compensation 0.5 milliseconds Battery Voltage Compensation SettingNet VoltageDwell Compensation -3.0 8.0 Volts 2.4 milliseconds -1.010.0 Volts 0.9 milliseconds 0.012.0 Volts 0.0 milliseconds 0.514.0 Volts-0.5 milliseconds 1.016.0 Volts-0.9 milliseconds This will give 4.5 - 0.5 = 4.0 milliseconds at 14.0 volts while running with the alternator charging normally. There is lots more information on setting dwell here: Setting Dwell. Here is a video of the coil in action - with the LS1 on the test stand you can hear the sparking, not loud but certainly audible. With the LS2/truck coil it sounds like someone is banging on the table! |
I still need answers to the questions above, please.
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2 Attachment(s)
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Thats probably the biggest they have. Try Amazon, I think thats where I got mine.
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This should work. I've bought from that seller before. Good stuff.
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Is that the one thats rated for 15vdc or 35vdc? Get the highest rated one you can reasonably find/fit. Higher is more gooder in this case.
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I would just put a second battery or an alternator by the COPS and call it a day.
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1 Attachment(s)
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I found a good seller on ebay who is actually local to me (go figure). His ebay name is SemiSurplus. He's got boatloads of this stuff in a warehouse nearby and I'm going to stop by in the morning. I talked to him on the phone and he is really easy to deal with. Thanks guys.
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I think what Rev is trying to say is that the requirement for the capacitor is under some debate.
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I ended up getting a 10,000uf 25v 105°C cap on amazon prime for like $6 for a pair. Getting the same from moser or digi key with their silly shipping rates would have been a small fortune.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1182535)
I think what Rev is trying to say is that the requirement for the capacitor is under some debate.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1182637)
It is possible that you may be onto something here. :)
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I've never installed a capacitor in any of the cars I've installed Toyota COPs, and I never had an issue. The Toyota COPs will work fine right up to 26-27psi, and that's that. Installing a capacitor won't help. Do the Toyota donor cars even have one?
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I installed one because the stock ignition harness had one and my new harness doesnt have one. I dont much care about the voltage drop I just want the damn noise in my cam sensor signal to go away.
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I've used the Nology wires with built-in capacitors and they noticeably better than any other plug wire I've used. Funny, plug wires aren't all the same.
I'd like to find out just how big those capacitors are. I've got a set in my garage, and just need to figure out how to test them. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1182780)
the stock ignition harness had one
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1182959)
Toyota or Mazda?
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I've had 3 NB1 harnesses apart, both ignition/injection and ECU side and I can tell you with pretty solid certainty that there is no cap in the stock harness for 99/00. I also have a pair of NB2 ignition/injection harness and again, no cap. I've also got a complete 04 MSM harness in the garage (literally every wire in the car) and no caps in there either.
I'm not calling you a liar, I'm just saying from my personal experience I've not seen any caps. I'd love someone to prove me wrong. |
1 Attachment(s)
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Is it actually a cap? It looks to small to be of any use for power drop, but I could see it as some sort of filter to keep ignition noise out of the rest of the harness.
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My '96 does not have that.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1183088)
Is it actually a cap? It looks to small to be of any use for power drop, but I could see it as some sort of filter to keep ignition noise out of the rest of the harness.
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Originally Posted by Oscar
(Post 1183180)
Don't know, was a genuine question;)
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Condensor is automotive speak for a capacitor in the ignition system.
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Originally Posted by bahurd
(Post 1183188)
Any idea what the wire colors are on the connector? Wiring diagram shows a 'condensor' for 2001+ NB cars that has a 2 wire connector.
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So its a capacitor for the coils. The end. All miatas have it.
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So if they already have one, adding another one will surely make it better?
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1183259)
So if they already have one, adding another one will surely make it better?
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1 Attachment(s)
Can you all check my work for me, putting LS2 coils on a 1.6 DIYPNP.
Going to move ECU 2I to the MS Tach out, then splicing white/black at the igniter to the yellow/blue tach wire. If I'm not mistaken, this will drive the tach off the MS without having to run any extra wire. I'm curious if the tach will be more accurate this way, but it's probably the tach itself that makes it inaccurate, right? Either way, if you butcher a igniter to make a PNP solution this should work and be easily reversible. Then, it's as easy as wiring in batch just like COPS. Reading has lead me to believe it's safe to wire all the coil grounds together. Is it true the signal ground of the coils is for misfire detection only? I guess you could easily use some of the evap purge valve wiring as a new signal ground, but is it worth the trouble, and hacking? I plan on adding capacitors as documented on the first page, a large cap on the voltage to the coils, and two smaller capacitors on the trigger wires. The wiring diagram I have for my 1.6 does show a capacitor in the mix, and I already have them around so I've nothing to loose. Here's what I came up with to hold the things in the stock location. At an angle, because the 45deg boot ends are cheapest and I've got more clearance for a reroute if I ever get around to it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416770307 |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1184728)
Can you all check my work for me, putting LS2 coils on a 1.6 DIYPNP.
Going to move ECU 2I to the MS Tach out, then splicing white/black at the igniter to the yellow/blue tach wire. If I'm not mistaken, this will drive the tach off the MS without having to run any extra wire. I'm curious if the tach will be more accurate this way, but it's probably the tach itself that makes it inaccurate, right? Either way, if you butcher a igniter to make a PNP solution this should work and be easily reversible. Then, it's as easy as wiring in batch just like COPS. Reading has lead me to believe it's safe to wire all the coil grounds together. Is it true the signal ground of the coils is for misfire detection only? I guess you could easily use some of the evap purge valve wiring as a new signal ground, but is it worth the trouble, and hacking? I plan on adding capacitors as documented on the first page, a large cap on the voltage to the coils, and two smaller capacitors on the trigger wires. The wiring diagram I have for my 1.6 does show a capacitor in the mix, and I already have them around so I've nothing to loose. Here's what I came up with to hold the things in the stock location. At an angle, because the 45deg boot ends are cheapest and I've got more clearance for a reroute if I ever get around to it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416770307 |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1185521)
I just switched to coil over plugs and to run the tach all you need to do is splice the black and white wire to the blue and yellow and then put a resistor between -IG and B+ in your diag box.
The grounds and the signal grounds were paired together. The giant capacitor was the only odd thing that was added to the harness. I'm using a MS1 in wasted spark configuration. I use the stock wires but used the Taylor ends from Summit Racing on the coil side and shortened the high tension leads to match my needs. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417095884 I need to take pics of the finished product. |
8 Attachment(s)
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I was reading over some wiring diagrams and that make sense. 96-97 (and maybe 94-95 but I don't remember) already have a Tach out pin on the ECU. But the 90-93 tach is connected straight to the coils.
EDIT: Just checked. 94-95 has tach out too. |
thats actually the tach in pin on the 94-95.5. it takes the tach signal off the coils to determine if the engine is running or not. yeah, its weird. Without that connected the car will only run for like 10 seconds then stall.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1185594)
thats actually the tach in pin on the 94-95.5. it takes the tach signal off the coils to determine if the engine is running or not. yeah, its weird. Without that connected the car will only run for like 10 seconds then stall.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwhkvztuco...-ms3x.jpg?dl=0 |
Yeah, I think you are right. From the 1.8 up, the megasquirt drives the tach. On the stock 1.6, the dash tach is driven off the ignitor, the DIYPNP jumper configuration doesn't have a connection for the tach, in stock configuration at least.
I'll definitely try a resistor if I don't get a tach signal from just splicing the two together. Thanks for the heads up. |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1185596)
Yeah, I think you are right. From the 1.8 up, the megasquirt drives the tach. On the stock 1.6, the dash tach is driven off the ignitor, the DIYPNP jumper configuration doesn't have a connection for the tach, in stock configuration at least.
I'll definitely try a resistor if I don't get a tach signal from just splicing the two together. Thanks for the heads up. I don't think rewiring 2I to tach out is the way to go. By connecting the black/white and the blue and yellow you are connecting the tach signal to the tach input. Then the resistor provides a pull-up that the tach needs. I would need to go over the diagrams to be sure but you might end up with some weird stuff by driving IG- with the coils (ground signal) and the ECU. Joe Perez or Braineack what do you think. I've been spending too much time with embedded code and EE knowledge is rusty. |
I looked through your thread again, are you still using toyota COPs? If so, they make a signal that replicates the one you removed in the stock ignitor. The LS2 truck coils have no tach out signal, so my megasquirt has to make the signal or there's no signal to pull up.
That's my understanding, if you wanted you could probably ditch the tach out pin of the toyota cops and drive the tach directly off the MS. I'm curious if it will be more accurate. I noticed it does very odd things under spark cut stock, obviously, I'm curious if the tach will read identical to megatune while on launch control or a flat shift, boost cut etc. Not a huge deal obviously, but I can't help but mess with stuff. I'm waiting for a trashed ignitor to finish my setup 100%, I'll be back with results no matter what. |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1185643)
I looked through your thread again, are you still using toyota COPs? If so, they make a signal that replicates the one you removed in the stock ignitor. The LS2 truck coils have no tach out signal, so my megasquirt has to make the signal or there's no signal to pull up.
That's my understanding, if you wanted you could probably ditch the tach out pin of the toyota cops and drive the tach directly off the MS. |
4 Attachment(s)
My plan works, and so do my coils. Stock wires were "crimped" to fit on the thinner LS studs. I ran a flat blade screwdriver between the coil boot and wire to un-glue them so I could make them fit perfect.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417244732 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417244732 |
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