6UL Wheel Studs
06-05-2011, 10:50 PM
#1
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6UL Wheel Studs
Is everyone using the stock length wheel studs with their 6ULs? I got new open-end lug nuts last week, and noticed there isn't as much thread engagement as my fancy-pants education says there should be (3-4 threads past the end of the nut). There's still a good amount of thread engagement though.
I ran them at the track this weekend with no issues, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. Should I get longer studs? Or stop being paranoid?
Pic of what I'm talking about:
I ran them at the track this weekend with no issues, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. Should I get longer studs? Or stop being paranoid?
Pic of what I'm talking about:
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06-05-2011, 11:47 PM
#2
I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php
No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php
No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.
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I'm not running any spacers or anything. The only thing I can think of is that the aftermarket rotors might have a thicker center section than OEMs. Anything else that could affect this?
06-07-2011, 03:52 AM
#9
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3-4 threads past the nut is too much, don't expect that. A clOsed nut couldn't go the far obviously, why would an open one (with stock studs)?
How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?
How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?
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06-07-2011, 11:08 AM
#11
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Your fine.
if the nut was a closed end it would be the same length outside. you leave room inside the nut to not bottom the stud on the cap of a closed lug so you get the proper torque on the wheel face.
if the nut was a closed end it would be the same length outside. you leave room inside the nut to not bottom the stud on the cap of a closed lug so you get the proper torque on the wheel face.
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06-07-2011, 06:53 PM
#12
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How many turns on your old nut vs. the new ones? Fancy pants education didn't tell you to check that?
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06-08-2011, 11:29 AM
#14
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I haven't installed them yet, but I ordered some from these guys:
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php
No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php
No problems on the stock studs, but with the TSE brakes and 5mm spacer I'll want/need longer ones.
Are these the studs to get?
"New Design Speed Tip Stud - 2.75” (fits all model FRONT and 1.6 rear)"
Also, is everyone running stock hubs?
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06-08-2011, 11:32 AM
#15
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/
If you want the speed tips.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/
If cheap is the name of the game.
Front hubs are stock, rear are from Miataroadster.
If you want the speed tips.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/
If cheap is the name of the game.
Front hubs are stock, rear are from Miataroadster.
Last edited by chpmnsws6; 06-08-2011 at 02:42 PM.
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06-08-2011, 12:10 PM
#16
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7713/
If you want the speed tips.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/
If cheap is the name of the game.
If you want the speed tips.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708/
If cheap is the name of the game.
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06-08-2011, 04:15 PM
#19
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The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread.
For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter.
That gives maximum strength.
Allthough this is for normal thread. Rolled threaded nuts are stronger.
I'd take the diameter as a minimum though.
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread.
For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter.
That gives maximum strength.
Allthough this is for normal thread. Rolled threaded nuts are stronger.
I'd take the diameter as a minimum though.
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06-09-2011, 11:23 AM
#20
The F-body type might fit in the hole, but they aren't the correct size. The knurl diamater and length is different from the Miata-specific part numbers. They also do not have "speed tips".
According the ARP's catalog, both of the Miata part numbers have 0.350" nose length. I prefer the bullet speed tips, but ARP doesn't make them, and this type (non-threaded end with slightly rounded corners) is good enough.
These are the ones you want, and they are available at Summit too:
100-7719 Miata, front and rear (1990-93) & front (1994-05) 4 pack
100-7720 Miata, rear (1994-05) 4 pack
I have been waiting 3+ months for a set of Applied Racing Tech 1.8 rear studs and am about to cancel the order and pick up the ARP's.
According the ARP's catalog, both of the Miata part numbers have 0.350" nose length. I prefer the bullet speed tips, but ARP doesn't make them, and this type (non-threaded end with slightly rounded corners) is good enough.
These are the ones you want, and they are available at Summit too:
100-7719 Miata, front and rear (1990-93) & front (1994-05) 4 pack
100-7720 Miata, rear (1994-05) 4 pack
I have been waiting 3+ months for a set of Applied Racing Tech 1.8 rear studs and am about to cancel the order and pick up the ARP's.
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