Acceptable 0 offset wheels
 

Suppose your Miata-like chassis* required 1.5" of spacer to gain clearance to fit a 15x8 6UL or a .75" spacer to clear a TR Motorsport 15x8 +20 C1. What wheel would you use to solve the problem?

Anything with a yo-JDM-bro tax need not be mentioned.

*Miata subframes, hubs, suspension, etc but 1450 lbs before driver

Panasport makes a 15x8 +0, IIRC.

What part of the exocet rubs and why did they design it that way?

How about the Traklite Holeshot 15X8 Wheels that exomotive sells?

That's my thought. I'm getting lots of calls from Exocet owners asking for 0 offset wheels. I see plenty of pictures of the cars with 6UL's so I'm not sure what the dealio is.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407904439

It rubs in the rear where circled. If you look closely you can see where the green paint has rubbed off. I think we needed 1" of spacer for the 6UL 15x8/RS-3's to clear on David's Exocet - pretty much the maximum for the ARP studs.

Related question, how is the handling affected from not also using spacers in the front?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1407906046

--Ferdi

Using a one inch spacer or zero offset wheel in the rear will likely exacerbate the rear hub fracturing issue. If similar spacers are used in the front it will certainly effect steering feel and I would suspect some special compensation in the alignment settings would be needed. It will change the effective spring rates by moving the lever point further from the fulcrum. If the rear is spread without the front then there will be a definite change in the balance of the car as well.

Is that product a possibility, Emilio?

You can fit your hand between the inside of the tire and chassis at rest. Apparently there is enough wheel and/or tire deflection in high lateral g events to cause an interference.

Its probably not so much wheel and tire deflection. When you are cornering the chassis is leaning compared to the wheels.

XXR's wheels are heavy, but tough and cheap. And they're not knockoffs of anybody else's wheels, which is a plus.

They also come in 15x8+20 and 15x8.25+0, so you can preserve your scrub radius in the front if you're willing to sacrifice being able to rotate tires.

The English company that used to make Fifteen52's wheels will do really nice custom size/ offset wheels for reasonable money. I can't remember the name of the company before my second cup of coffee, though. Or, you can have CCW spit out a set of 2 piece 15s for you, if you want to come off of some money.

15" CCWs are quite heavy

I'm not particularly interested, no. Sorry.

I've never touched one. They look sharp, though, and for a shop display car, looking nice is actually a legitimate concern.


Also, Ben, you could hunt vrwheels.com, the VW Vortex wheel classifieds, and the NWP4Life (Honda kid forum) wheel classifieds. Those are all good places to find nice used wheels.

Anything made for circle track cars. There's plenty of WIDE 5 wheels that can take cheap adapters to 4x100 that make them +0 ET. And plenty of other roundy round wheels in 4x100 with that offset too.

In the above situation I would be using the late model NB +5mm rear upright spindles to gain some clearance.

How tall are the tires you are running? Seems like that rubbing could be tire height related.

I would try and stick with reasonable offsets for all of the reasons previously mentioned.

ENKEI RPF1-RS 28mm 15x8 for Miata 1990-2000, 15x8

15x8 RPF1s are +28. A smaller spacer on those might do it with more threads left on ARP studs. That doesn't help with the scrub radius or any of the more serious issues though. It sounds like you will need custom suspension geometry to fix it permanently.

5mm isn't going to cut it if they needed a +3 effective offset with a 205 width tire to clear on the rear.

Compomotive ML1580s are the wheels I was thinking about here.

We have a 15x7 4x100 +15 .....what is the hub bore?