sandblasted 6UL Failure - need replacements
10-03-2013, 07:20 AM
#1
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sandblasted 6UL Failure - need replacements
I noticed yesterday that the two first-gen 6ULs I had sandblasted and painted a couple years ago are failing. One has a broken spoke, and both have a few small cracks forming all over the place. The two I didn't sandblast look fine.
So, if this happened to you, what would you do?
-Hunt for 2 1st-gen 6ULs
-2 new 6ULs
-4 new 6ULs
-4 new wheels of some other variety, if so, which wheels?
I have been really happy with the 6ULs except for the finish, which starting chipping a year or so after I got them. That's why I sandblasted them (don't sandblast your 6ULs, it appears to cause failure).
I'll probably stick with 8" width, since I only ever put street tires on the car and autocross, but if I don't have to do any rolling and it's not much more money I could probably be convinced to to go 9"
Sorry if this info is all out there, I haven't been paying much attention to the wheel selection since I bought my 6ULs 5 years ago.
So, if this happened to you, what would you do?
-Hunt for 2 1st-gen 6ULs
-2 new 6ULs
-4 new 6ULs
-4 new wheels of some other variety, if so, which wheels?
I have been really happy with the 6ULs except for the finish, which starting chipping a year or so after I got them. That's why I sandblasted them (don't sandblast your 6ULs, it appears to cause failure).
I'll probably stick with 8" width, since I only ever put street tires on the car and autocross, but if I don't have to do any rolling and it's not much more money I could probably be convinced to to go 9"
Sorry if this info is all out there, I haven't been paying much attention to the wheel selection since I bought my 6ULs 5 years ago.
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10-03-2013, 08:10 AM
#2
1gen 6UL seems to need constant monitoring for cracks. Mine have not shown any yet (I have not found any, no Xrays), but for racing friends around me the failure rate is quite high.
Later generations seems to be much better, but wheels are consumables in racing (however, some last much longer than others, and when you learn which one to have they are replaced by a new experimental version).
Later generations seems to be much better, but wheels are consumables in racing (however, some last much longer than others, and when you learn which one to have they are replaced by a new experimental version).
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10-03-2013, 08:30 AM
#3
Make sure you send Emilio an e-mail about this. At the very least its probably good information for him and maybe he will be super nice and give you a discount on a new set!
The 1st gen 6ULs aren't as strong as the 2nd/3rd gen. Emilio posted/hinted about this on his website.
The 1st gen 6ULs aren't as strong as the 2nd/3rd gen. Emilio posted/hinted about this on his website.
Service Life
All aluminum race wheels have a finite service life. It is important to check the wheels for cracks before every competition or track day. Gen 1 6UL's (without "6UL" cast into face), may crack after several years of track use with race compound tires and kerb hits. If you find cracks in any aluminum race wheel, it must be removed from service and destroyed. We recommend drilling a large hole in the outer rim to make sure no one else uses a cracked wheel. Failure to regularly inspect your wheels may result injury or death.
All aluminum race wheels have a finite service life. It is important to check the wheels for cracks before every competition or track day. Gen 1 6UL's (without "6UL" cast into face), may crack after several years of track use with race compound tires and kerb hits. If you find cracks in any aluminum race wheel, it must be removed from service and destroyed. We recommend drilling a large hole in the outer rim to make sure no one else uses a cracked wheel. Failure to regularly inspect your wheels may result injury or death.
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10-03-2013, 08:33 AM
#4
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Yeah, these wheels are old enough and since I sandblasted them, I don't expect any sympathy from Emilio. I'll send him a note for his info, though.
So it sounds like we have two votes against 2 replacement first-gen 6ULs
Oh, these wheels have never seen a track, but they have done a bunch of autocrosses and probably 35k street miles.
So it sounds like we have two votes against 2 replacement first-gen 6ULs
Oh, these wheels have never seen a track, but they have done a bunch of autocrosses and probably 35k street miles.
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10-03-2013, 08:48 AM
#5
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I just emailed Emilio, and I'll try to post a picture or two here this afternoon showing the damage. It looks like 15x8s in Nickel are sold out everywhere, which is annoying because that's sort of the direction I'm leaning right now.
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10-03-2013, 08:56 AM
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Yeah, and I think I knew the risks of sandblasting when I did it, but somehow I had already committed before I realized them, so I went ahead with it anyway.
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10-03-2013, 09:50 AM
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Wheels are wear items. :P
The NAs require a front and rear fender roll with x9s. If you have lowered the car, I would imagine you'd have to roll at least the fronts. It's a big wheel for such a small car. I love mine.
The NAs require a front and rear fender roll with x9s. If you have lowered the car, I would imagine you'd have to roll at least the fronts. It's a big wheel for such a small car. I love mine.
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10-03-2013, 11:09 AM
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Sort of related, sorry for thread jacking.
Is there a guide for identifying Gen1 vs Gen2 vs Gen3. I know about the above mentioned "6ul" cast into the face. Do the center cap designs also designate the different generations? Hex caps vs flatter bubble caps, vs ______?
Is there a guide for identifying Gen1 vs Gen2 vs Gen3. I know about the above mentioned "6ul" cast into the face. Do the center cap designs also designate the different generations? Hex caps vs flatter bubble caps, vs ______?
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10-03-2013, 11:54 AM
#14
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Ok, so I want 15x8 6ULs in Nickel. They appear to be sold out everywhere, can anybody prove me wrong? I have an autocross in a week and a half I'd like to attend, but not on broken wheels!
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10-03-2013, 12:31 PM
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Wheel Tech - 949Racing.com
TL;DR
- Gen1: Does not have "6UL" cast in the face, 59.1 or 54.1mm hub bore
- Gen2: Has "6UL" cast in the face, 67.1mm hub bore
- Gen3: Looks like Gen2 but has "VIA" stamp near the valve hole, 67.1mm hub bore
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10-03-2013, 01:59 PM
#18
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Yes, all four of those places seem to be out of nickel 15x8s. I caved and bought silver 5 years ago because of this, and I don't want to do it again. I've always wished for nickels...
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