What wheels to go with Tuckin99 N2 Flares??
12-18-2009, 01:23 AM
#123
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Thumbing through the Hoosier racing tire catalog they make slicks in 23.5” OD in both 11 and 12” wide. For 16” wheels. don’t list anything for 17” they skip to 18” . They are said for GT2 application in that size. and both are recommended to be mounted on 12” wide wheels.
This is not very far off in diameter. They would work ok with relatively stock suspension geometry I still think you would need tubbed fenders though.
Bob
This is not very far off in diameter. They would work ok with relatively stock suspension geometry I still think you would need tubbed fenders though.
Bob
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12-18-2009, 02:22 AM
#124
Thumbing through the Hoosier racing tire catalog they make slicks in 23.5” OD in both 11 and 12” wide. For 16” wheels. don’t list anything for 17” they skip to 18” . They are said for GT2 application in that size. and both are recommended to be mounted on 12” wide wheels.
This is not very far off in diameter. They would work ok with relatively stock suspension geometry I still think you would need tubbed fenders though.
Bob
This is not very far off in diameter. They would work ok with relatively stock suspension geometry I still think you would need tubbed fenders though.
Bob
i wouldnt be running no where near 11 or 12 inch wide wheels at most i would run 10's with a low offset!
Cspence hurry and get some wheel and tell us if there is any futher modification needed? pawease.......
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12-26-2009, 01:13 PM
#126
That's me in the passenger seat. This picture was taken at an event in September at Nashville Super Speedway - car is sick; we were doing over 150 at the end of the front straightaway. This is the car that made me want to build a turbo Miata - I lived upstairs from the owner when he put an FMII kit on the car in 2000. It's come a long way since then...really bad *** car.
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12-26-2009, 01:14 PM
#127
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that's me in the passenger seat. This picture was taken at an event in september at nashville super speedway - car is sick; we were doing over 150 at the end of the front straightaway. This is the car that made me want to build a turbo miata - i lived upstairs from the owner when he put an fmii kit on the car in 2000. It's come a long way since then...really bad *** car.
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12-26-2009, 11:17 PM
#130
Personally i wouldnt go with something bigger than a 16" otherwise you'll have to make the tires bigger. You dont want it looking like a hotwheels toy car with the oversized tires or the NC.
and while looking for a pic for the nc here is what i found.
If it wasnt for batman and robin i'd say its a pretty good photoshop
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12-27-2009, 11:31 AM
#131
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IIRC (I'd need to talk to the owner) I think they are 10/11 or 11/12's. I don't remember if the rear was tubbed or not. It's been a long time since I've seen that car in person, well at least really looked it over.
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12-27-2009, 12:49 PM
#132
Here are some really old pics of the car, but it does show the flares and some better still shots of the wheels:
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html
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12-27-2009, 08:54 PM
#133
Here are some really old pics of the car, but it does show the flares and some better still shots of the wheels:
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html
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12-27-2009, 10:54 PM
#134
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Here are some really old pics of the car, but it does show the flares and some better still shots of the wheels:
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html
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01-24-2010, 10:53 AM
#138
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Just thinking about everything I'll need to specify when it comes time to order wheels. Since the wheels I want are custom order they can come with a generic hub hole (2.6" for the 4 lug wheels) or they can make any size hub opening to make the wheels hubcentric. My question is, which is the best way to go? I'm assuming hub centric would be the best, but I'm not 100% sure. Does it even really matter that much? I guess I need to be schooled in this a little bit. Also, just so I know, what is the hub diameter on the miata, 60.1mm? (I think I saw that somewhere...but then again I've seen 54.1mm and the 6UL's have a 67.1mm bore)
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/d...sOrderForm.pdf
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/d...sOrderForm.pdf
Last edited by Cspence; 01-24-2010 at 11:06 AM.
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01-24-2010, 02:42 PM
#139
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Well I've spent the past 2 hours working on this rim fitment deal and here is the scoop. On the rear, you can fit as much meat as you want....literally. A 16x10 with 245/45's would fit no problem. **** you could probably fit a damn 16x12 if you wanted to. Now all the issue come with the front which is where I spent most of my time trying to figure out the offset that would interfere with turning the least (3 & 9 oclock positions). This said, my original plans of a 16x9.5 0et with a 245/45 are DEFINITLY out. After hacking up some coat hangers to mimic the tire diameter and width/offset I found that on the 16x9.5 I'd need to run a 245/35/R16 and have an offset of +32mm which would put the outside lip of the rim 3.5" out off the mounting surface of the rotor. Even with this, there would be some trimming I'd need to do to the flares in the 7-8 and 4-5 oclock positions to make room, but its doable. Believe it or not, even with the positive offset, the wheel would still be almost flush with the outermost edge of the flares.....front and rear (checked the rear since I don't want to run a staggard setup)......now did anything I mention jump out to anyone....probably not, but the +32mm offset is pretty darn close to another popular wheel. Thats right the 6UL has a +36. Granted the 15x9 would be .5" narrower than the spinwerkes and would add another 4mm of offset, but by my calculations would put the outside edge of the rim 3.08" out off the mounting surface of the rotor.......so the moral of the story is that 15x9 6UL's with a .5" spacer will be close to flush with the Tuckin99's and the 245/40/R15 or 225/45/R15 have basically the same rolling diameter as the 245/35/R16 so the interference will be basically the same as I noted above.
Sorry about the long winded reponse, I just wanted to put my findings out there for others. In my eyes, I'm thinking I may go with the 6UL's now just for the mere fact that they are 3lbs lighter than the 16x9.5 spinwerks, look better, are probably stronger, and are $70 cheaper - each.....and all I'll have to do is run .5" spacer, if I'm worried about having the wheels fill out the flares more.
O yea, if anyone is curious the hub diameter is 54.1mm....I verified it while I was doing all this
Sorry about the long winded reponse, I just wanted to put my findings out there for others. In my eyes, I'm thinking I may go with the 6UL's now just for the mere fact that they are 3lbs lighter than the 16x9.5 spinwerks, look better, are probably stronger, and are $70 cheaper - each.....and all I'll have to do is run .5" spacer, if I'm worried about having the wheels fill out the flares more.
O yea, if anyone is curious the hub diameter is 54.1mm....I verified it while I was doing all this
Last edited by Cspence; 01-24-2010 at 10:32 PM.
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01-24-2010, 10:30 PM
#140
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ight i have already mentioned this before but im still trying to figure this out!
hokay! right now im currently running 16x8 with 0 offset and for tires im running 205/45s. and im having scrubbing issues when i make really sharp turns, it scrubs where the support bar runs from the inner body of the car and where it attaches to the corner of the front bumper and fender! i have already cut away at that area and it has helped minimize the scrubbing!
the left of the pic is the front, just in case anybody asks!
now this thread speaks of running wider wheels, and in the very first post it says that the black car (first pic in the thread) is running 16x9 0 offset. now with wider wheels the contact surface gets moved forward due to the extra 1/2 in of width on each side of the wheel from the center. that's what the 2 lines going horizontally across the top and bottom of the tire in the pic above signify!
im wanting to get a set of the replica flares for my car and i want to go with the same sized wheel and offset as the black car in the first post, but im already scrubbing and if i go that route i will scrub more!
anybody understand what im saying? what am i missing? anybody have any pics of install of the N2 flares...to show all of the modification to properly install them and be able to turn without scrubbing?
hokay! right now im currently running 16x8 with 0 offset and for tires im running 205/45s. and im having scrubbing issues when i make really sharp turns, it scrubs where the support bar runs from the inner body of the car and where it attaches to the corner of the front bumper and fender! i have already cut away at that area and it has helped minimize the scrubbing!
the left of the pic is the front, just in case anybody asks!
now this thread speaks of running wider wheels, and in the very first post it says that the black car (first pic in the thread) is running 16x9 0 offset. now with wider wheels the contact surface gets moved forward due to the extra 1/2 in of width on each side of the wheel from the center. that's what the 2 lines going horizontally across the top and bottom of the tire in the pic above signify!
im wanting to get a set of the replica flares for my car and i want to go with the same sized wheel and offset as the black car in the first post, but im already scrubbing and if i go that route i will scrub more!
anybody understand what im saying? what am i missing? anybody have any pics of install of the N2 flares...to show all of the modification to properly install them and be able to turn without scrubbing?
spent my whole day pondering about the best setup to go with and I still dont know what to do because of this.
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