Who is actually running 10" Wheels?
 

Looking to see how many nutcases there are out there besides me. :fawk:

I feel like 3-4 people in this poll could be lying, or we have the entire population of MTnet that runs 15x10s answering the thread.

I have two sets of 10's and two sets of 9's. fully switching to 10" for track and autocross 245 and 275 widths. I still need 9's for Hoosier H20 wets in 225. but if sombody makes a 245 streetable tire Id get another set of 10's and just have one set of 9".

She told me that my 8" was big enough.

We have 2 sets of 10s. 1 set of 9s, 1 set of 8s , 1 set of 7s. I voted 10s.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382475943

Is it even cooler if you have a set of 13x10s and 15x10s?

I need another set of 15x10s but funds are just too tight this year. New motor and paint jobs really make the racing budget go POOF.

Plasti dip is a whole heck of a lot cheaper than paint, like $150 to do a miata with a glossy finish. Its lighter than paint too.

And touch up is simple!

What sort of work do you have to do to make 15x10s fit on an NA?

For the 15x9s with 225s I was able to just roll the fenders and pull the fender liners, but I still can't turn full lock without rubbing against the springs (doesn't really matter except in a parking lot).

15x10 with what tires? 275 hoosiers? A whole bunch of cutting and some front bump stop adjustment. I dont know about the other sizes.

If I was going to 10s I'd want to run 275s. Sounds like it is more trouble than it is worth unless I built a national level SSM car and trailered it.

I'm not convinced 275s are the way to go for a national level SSM car. Just not sure it is enough rear tire.

Or a national level CSP car.



I think its plenty of tire. The 315 is not worth the extra weight and monster truck ride height just to be able to put down more power. Honestly at 250hp I dont have enough power to break the tires free with a fresh set in 2nd most cases. Now if you took the rear wing off I'd be telling you about all the crazy drifitng. Or if you put 3 year old R6s with no grooves left on the back I'll also tell you about have touchy they throttle is. Now I also don't think you really need more than 250hp to get it done, my car took 2nd in pax a few weekends ago with a top level driver behind the wheel, only the original alien, Daddio out paxed him. And the consensus was that he'd be shaving a second off the run if the car had power steering, or at least a faster ratio rack. And the that day were we hitting the 8500 rpm rev limiter (5 spd, 4:10), which is a higher top speed than the Panda was reporting on the same course. Also had the fastest raw time of a non-formula car by 1.2 seconds. The car is stupid fast, I suck at driving.

Daddio out paxed your SSM car in a B-Mod car? Or was this in SS?

In Jim Gary's B-mod, which has top paxed in the region with Will driving so its not like its not normally pax competitive. But whats bigger than that is putting 1.2 seconds RAW on PJ in the Panda on like a 60ish second course. But with my hack ass driving I was still 2.5 seconds off PJ and Dave. I just need to do more :fael: to catch them, lol.

I don't know about 315s either in 17/18s. I wish we had a short 15" 315-335 width tire. You are saying you can run with Carter with 250hp?

I'm saying my car can, with an alien/near alien. And I still dont think an inch more on the tire width isnt worth making the car 2 inches wider and 200 pounds heavier. I think even in a tire height that works for us it wont make the car faster, it might even make it slower. Our advantage over the RX7 is a few inches in width and length and a few hundred pounds.

I'd put 315s on but there is no real penalty for us except width. The 10" wheel wideneded the back of the car enough to facilitate flares. We got 10s on the front without them

275/35/15 A6 for autocross. however after running 245/40/15 Hoosiers to fit in NASA TT2 Time trials within the tire-weight/hp rules and feeling how good that was in setting down several lap records on several different tracks I feel the 275 tires really would work better on an 11” wheel. The 245’s fit much better on the 10” wheels than do 275’s.

Have definitely had those dirty thoughts too.

Saw the thread title, assumed this was about 10" diameter wheels. Came in here looking to ban someone. Was disappointed.

Thread rating 0/5. Would not read again.

I also want to try the 11" wheels. BUT I'm not sure if making the car 2 inches wider will cancel out any of the benefits of the tire fitting better. We KNOW that going from 9's to 10's on the 275 improves time. But we dont know if going from 10's to 11's will. And getting spinwerks to make me a set of 11's with basically no resale value that may or may not make the car faster is not something high up on my build list.

Just noticed the link in your sig. God Dammit Joe.

We were thinking about Real wheels. I would expect similar results 9 to 10 as 10 to 11. Wonder if we could get the 949s widened to the front. Lol

Yea I think the improvement seen with the 9 to 10 jump would also be seen with the 10 to 11 jump. I base on how much better the 245's feel and behave on the 10" wheels than the 275's

I own a set of 10s... can't say I've used them though, sadly.

With a geo metro drum brake conversion ?

I must be the coolest because I'm rocking 10.5" square and looking to go 11" square..lol.

Funny my Discount Tire guy came by this weekend and I sold him some Miata parts. He told me upper management said they cannot mount 225 tires on 9" wheels. The explanation was it wasn't safe. I guess they lost my business with their stupidity.

I don't think we will see that happen. The 10's are slow movers compared to everything else. I am glad he made em cause I would be screwed without em.

I didn't mean manufactured that way, more widened after the fact.

My employer gave me the pleasure of sending me to a recent BFGoodrich training event at the Miller Motorsports Park in Ogden, Utah. We got to drive 2005-2009 Mustangs around the (flippin sweet) track. We also had a bunch of other training sessions, including driving an identical (make, model, tune and upgrades) car, back to back, with different width wheels and the same tires.

Let me tell you, the stock 8" wheels and (IIRC) 245/40R18 BFGoodrich Comp2 tires felt like shit compared to the 9.5" Shelby wheels with the same tires. There was less body roll, the car pointed better, just a total night and day difference. We went from the minimum rim width to almost the max (10") for that size. Aesthetically, the tires looked better on the 9.5" wheels too. Rather than having bulgy sidewalls that could load to the side while turning, they were nice and square to the wheel.

So it makes sense that 11's with the 275's would be an improvement. Hoosier even says 11 is the max they recommend for the A6. It would probably have a positive difference in handling, but might break loose easier under lateral loads, as the tire will have less "give" in the sidewalls. At the end of the training, we decided that any generic vehicle should get the best fitting, lightest, widest wheels (please no 15x15 gaucho wheels or 22" wheels and 26" tires, kthxbai) and tires should be sized to the wheels for ultimate performance. The priority afforded to being light weight is reduced on higher horsepower/larger vehicles. Slap some 18's or 20's on a stock Miata and feel the dearly departed power disappear, while upping from 15" to 20" on something with boost or a V8 is virtually unnoticeable, until you want to brake.

I had a coworker with an awd turbo Eagle Talon, who got a sweet deal on some 5x4.5 wheels. Unfortunately, they came off of an Explorer and weighed almost 40# each for a 18" wheel (not counting the extra weight of 18" tires, either). After two weeks he put the stock 19 pound 16's back on because he didn't have enough brake to compensate for all of the extra wheel and tire weight.

Unfortunately, this is a result of sue-happy America. I asked our BFG rep about why the catalogs changed. A couple years ago it used the terms "recommended rim width range" and gave a range. Now all of the new catalogs say "Minimum to Maximum Rim Width", with no suggestion that you can go outside of the lines. A 225/45R15 BFG G-Force Rival shows a max width of 8.5", and would likely work fine on a 9" wheel, but because someone sued we can't do it anymore.

Make friends with a tire guy. You won't have a receipt to sue anyone that way, and everything becomes hunky dory.

I believe there are hundreds of people who have 225/45's mounted on 9" wheels now days. And a good number are G-Force Rivals. I have never herd of a single issue because of it, only that they perform better in pretty much every way when mounted on a 9" wheel as appose to something skinnyer.

My back to back testing 8 to 9" was almost a 2 second improvement on a minute 35 road course. And FWIW earlyer testing showed 205 to 225 both mounted on 7" were both pretty much equal to each other. Rim width to tire width ratio is more important than tread width. I don't know how much is too much. But I will say some of the Fastest PTE cars in the country limited by formula to 205 tires that can run any width wheel they want run 205 hoosiers on 9" wheels because they are faster than they are on 8" wheels.

Sorry, by "would likely work" I most likely mean "will work" but because I'm so used to dealing with word-twisting mouth breathers I have to watch how I talk when it comes to tires.

But it's the sue-happy people, or people who were trying to get warranty credit, or someone who dug a fender into the tire (especially fender dug into sidewall from some oni-camber jerk) and wanted BFG to cover body damage when it blew out, who has caused you to be unable to get tires mounted.

I don't doubt that they'd be "faster," when you have tires stretched like that (205 on 9" is common for the drifters round here) the sidewalls are constantly under stress and can't flex as much(similar to an over-inflated tire). They are faster because they will respond quicker to acceleration and turning because of the stressed sidewalls, without the poor contact patch of overinflated tires. They're faster right up until you lose traction and slide off the road. (Read: They will always be faster with professional drivers who won't slide off the road) Try putting a novice driver in the same car and watch the fun. Also, they'll only be faster in situations where everyone is limited to the same size tire, elsewise someone will just run a wider tire for the extra contact patch.

Part of the reason drifters use stretched tires is that it's easier to blip the throttle to break them lose because the sidewall doesn't cushion either the torque of acceleration (radial deformation), or the car sliding sideways (angular deformation).

With taller/bulgier sidewalls (either high profile, or with wider tires/section widths), during hard cornering, the tire can roll over so the centerline of the wheel is no longer on the centerline of the tire. There is an equal amount of deflection in either direction under similar g's. The cushion in the sidewall means you don't need to worry as much about upsetting the car by jabbing the brakes, or turning the wheel too quickly, etc. etc. With undersized width tires it's also harder to get any radial/centrifugal deformation (think like wrinklewalls do on the strip, this happens on a less dramatic scale with all tires) because the sidewalls are constantly stressed.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383088512

The image is for dirtbike tires, but exaggerates the effect of lateral deformation.

As to section width being more of an issue than tread width, I don't know which is the most important. In the 225/45R15 size, every non-Hoosier (on the rack) has an 8.9" section width, with the R6 and A6 Hoosier's coming in at 9.8" (the wet Hoosier is 8.9"). Section width is also dynamic (you won't have 8.9" section width on a 10" wide wheel) so without knowing what width wheel they measured section width on, it's a measurement that only means anything when looking at the same brand tires. In this case, we do know that most of the tires were measured using a 7.5" wheel (some are unlisted). Even though the section width is wider on the Hoosier's, they still recommend the same 7"-8.5" wheel range as the BFG Rivals or the Hankook RS3's. Similar with the tread width, it's all over the place from 8" to 9" in this size, but everyone recommends the same wheel widths.

This tells me that a lawyer was responsible for the wheel width ranges. It doesn't feel like an engineering decision to arbitrarily assign the same min/max across a size without factoring the performance of each individual tire.

I don't think you understand the wider rim makes a little more traction in a corner because the kinematics of the tire sidewalls deflecting in a corner keep the contact patch more consistently flat to the ground instead of transferring all the load to the outside shoulder. They are a lot faster however because it is easier to drive at and over the limit the snap breakaway feeling disappears when they are mounted on the wider wheel. The biggest difference in performance is not from what the lateral g’s peak at, it is because they are easier for a novice to drive at the limit and keep it near the limit or even bring it back from over the limit. The difference in sidewall stress is nothing.

On the 245/45/15’s mounted on 10” wheels I became comfortable coming off a 150mph straightaway downshifting to 5th turning in with as little braking as possible trail braking into the corner and scrub just enough speed to make it back to the apex of a 180 degree turn without dropping the speed below 100mph. knowing how the 275’s feel that would be a lot more scary on them.

Except you're talking about taking them far beyond vertical sidewalls, to /---\ sidewalls. Which are constantly stressed. Which gives them a better contact patch because the sidewalls can no longer do what they are designed to do, which I alluded to in the first two sentences that you quoted.

The "feeling" of snap break away is gone, but the chances of snap break away aren't. Drifters run the same tires because it's easy to snap break away compared to proper width tires. The feeling is your tires loading the sidewalls while turning, then unloading when you jerk the wheel, or aren't smooth with gas and brake. I'd much rather get the feeling and know I did wrong, than to have it just happen with little warning (other than tire squeal). I don't see how removing one of the warnings would make them easier to drive for a novice. We got pretty familiar with that feeling in the Mustangs, 8" wide wheel with 245's. The whole point of the track time was to smooth out our inputs to avoid upsetting the car.

If you want a better contact patch, buy good tires. For example, Michelin and BFG both have technologies designed to increase the area of the contact patch as more force is transmitted to the outside edge of the tire. Michelin calls it Variable Contact Patch 2.0, and BFG calls it Enhanced ETEC with Dynamic Suspension.

You're picking an oranges comparison for our apples. Those 275's have more sidewall to move, so will definitely have more squirm in the exact same situation on a 10" wheel. The 245's are better for that wheel. This can be helped with proper pressure, although an 11" wide wheel would be better.

I am more and more intrigued by the thought of 11s. Contacted a company to widen some of my 10" 949 wheels.

Hmm. Subbed.

13x10 all around or
13 x 10 front and 15 x 13 rear.

Won't wider tires on the rear than the front induce understeer without any other suspension changes?

Hot Rod guys do this, I wouldn't want to screw up a set of 6ULs for it.

I suspect that by the time you include the cost of the 6ULs, shipping to the company and back + the work, you could just have Jongbloed/Keizer/etc make you a set.

Bogart might build a set but they are going to be about $500 ea, not to mention when I discussed 11" wheels with him before I got any 10" wheels Rich didn't act like I needed anything bigger than 10" wheels. I have never dealt with the others but assume probably similar costs. I don't care enough about the 949 wheel to consider it "screwing it up". I am trying to build a BSP national champion car, not a show piece. Then there is the whole "I already have 2 sets" of 949 wheels, so that $800 is already spent.

It'd be a lot cheaper to get some 15" steelies from the junkyard and have them widened. Yes, big heavy steel wheels, but at $25 per wheel versus $210 each for the 6ul's.... Not to mention it's easier and cheaper to weld steel.

I don't want heavy wheels. I'm spending lots of money finding 2-3 pounds here and there to get weight off the car. That makes zero sense for me.

Sorry. Didn't realize that money is no object.

225's on a 9" wheel are not significantly stretched. 185's or 195's I beleieve is too far not 225.

Nobody said money was no object I am just not interested in putting 20lb wheels on my build.

I feel like you may have wandered in to the wrong thread...

X

Latest issue of Grassroots motorsports. testing a bunch of 225/45's on a civic. They couldn't fit 9" on the back but when they switched from 8 to 9 just on the front the went a half second faster. Both With G force rivals and RS3's. The tire was better in every phase of the corner they said and lap times were more consistent with an easier to drive at limit. But I already knew that. done the test myself, Even did the 9 front 8 rear combo on my all wheel drive 323 GTX.

FWIW the 275 and 245 Hoosiers have exactly the same sidewall and diameter. looks like they just change out a center ring in the mold to make the two sizes.

Yep, they just add a spacer to the middle of the mold.

Yes, I run 225s on 9s and they are not stretched, especially not Hoosier A6 225s.

I run spec miata so it's 7 for me lol but if I were to build a fun street/track miata. Not gonna lie but I'd go with 9s since they look so aggressive.

The poll doesn't even give me the option to choose my 12s.:p

I've got 8 9" 6uls & 4 10" I need to go all 8" 9" now for exocet. Anyone wanna swap 4 blk 10s for 8s? I would like 6 8s for 4 10s 2 have never been mounted, or 4 for 4 you pay shipping. I love my 9" front 205 50s 10" rears 225 50s with flares.

Where are you located? I maybe interested in buying the 10's outright.

I'm in Portland OR. Email is mrvwcastner@yahoo.com

I really need 10 8" & 2 9" to complete what I need for Exocet project to run staggerd 8"/9" 205 front 225 rear. I guess I'm waiting for Emilio to move production to the US.

I'm currently running 15X8 +10 and the handling is pretty good. 9inch wheels seems to be too agressive for me, but everyone knows that their style is superb. Not knowing if they are good in the track, surely Miata.net users wouldn't agree with that.

I sold my 10s I guess my vote is null & void now. 2 sets of 9s with 245s &I need to sets of 8s for the 205s I have. This is all on Exocet with 1.6. Big motor next year.