curly

iTrader: (25)

Anyone have one? I have a broken DP stud in mine.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Find a set of reverse drill bits or get these http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...&blockType=L11 and drill hit hammer one in and remove the stud.

Edit: Also drill a nice little tunnel through the stud taking the thread preassure off all the way down. Heat is your friend to. See my other responses-fire makes everything better. With it drilled through torch the housing while dripping ice water down the middle ot the holy stud. Housing expands and stud stays small ish. Worked for me once. Sure there is a physics reason I would be wrong but it freakin worked once for me.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

And NOT these->
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...8&blockType=L8
They suck monkey ***** and will break in the stud making it even harder to fix.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Ha! This stud is made of magic metal, it's welded to the threads. Along with penetrating oil, vice grips, welded nut, freezing/torching, I tried to drill it out today. I got about 1/8" down easily, then suddenly the pressure on my drill press went soft and it dove down 1/2". It ate a 1/2" of my by, meaning it's now very hard along with stuck. I could have saved about a 1/4" of that, but I was in shock with how easily it was going down. Oh well my only option is edm and I don't know of a shop around here that'll do that.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

T25G or T25, Curly?

curly

iTrader: (25)

uh.....no idea. Where do I find this information?

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

T25G has a .62 a/r on the turbine, t25 has a .48 a/r turbine.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I thought the SR20 T25 had .64 on the turbine?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, it says .64 right inside of the 4 bolt manifold flange, and on the outside of the housing.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Well, if this is the case...then...

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Ah, .64, my bad on the .62. Either way, don't get a T25 .49 turbine by accident instead of a T25G Turbine Curly!

There's a .49 turbine for T25's as well, Thirdgen. Hence the T25"G" designation.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Yeah, I had a .48 or .49 whatever the turbine a few years back...what a waste of time that turbo was. I bought it and was told it was an SR20, it wasn't. I think I researched that it came off of a 1980 pontiac sunbird or something. It was a .49compressor with a .48 turbine, if I do remember correctly...maybe the other way around. Spooled stupid fast, actually looked like my current SR20 t25, but it couldn't even hold 9psi to redline.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Yep, hence why I was warning Curly about that. Getting a .49 (.48? whichever) instead of a .64 would be a surprise I doubt Curly would want.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Well I'd stay away from the .48/9 if I could find one, no one apparently has one.

I'd take a complete SR20 turbo as well, I'll change the title to reflect that.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Send or post a pic. I'll ask the shop that just fixed my mani. Just don't be in a rush. They're an hour from me plus mailing it to me. Or mail it to them I'll ask them. Your probably better of with a local thAn shipping it.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, I emailed one place that says they have a "wire and sinker" EDM machine(s?) I used to use one all the time at my old job, but have no idea what type it was. I'll see what they say.

Picture added to first post.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

This thing really doesn't want to be easy on you.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

What're you offering for a complete SR20?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Depends on what's attached, as I still need water fittings, an oil feed fitting, and a compressor inlet flange. Probably around $100, since I'll be rebuilding it anyways.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

If it's recently rebuilt* with a new compressor inlet flange? And I'll throw in two nearly-new K&N filters for said flange? And an AN oil feed fitting for Artech lines?

I'm just about to upgrade (~1 week max) from my current T25G.

*: Chinese rebuild kit, though, but you can pull everything apart on it super-easy as it only has maybe 1k-2k since rebuild. Mounting holes to engine have been bored from 8mm to 10mm.