dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

I'm about to lose it with this thing again. The car is trying to idle at 4000 rpm.

Would someone mind giving my ecu file a once over?

I tried loading the map that is supplied by Boundary and I have the exact same result.

I made no changes. All the IC pipes are connected and I have no intake leaks from what I can tell. The throttle plate is closed. IACV stuck open? How would I test the IACV?

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Falling flat at 4K is most likely the knock sensor retarding spark. IIRC, base map values retard 1* for every couple of points of knock detected. Right around 4K there is a false spike in knock to 40-60 so it is probably retarding timing something like 15* at that point.

If you want to test the theory, set knock sensor retard to 1* for every 20 points of knock and try again. I suspect that it will go away. Unfortunately, someone with WARI will have to tell you where it is, as I have forgotten.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

That was my first guess, but I'm recording 0 knock in the logs. I am surprised to not even see 1. I was about to go for another run with the overboost set a a few kpa higher.

I'm just trying to get my idle down at this point. Never knew a car could make someone cry

PhantomRoadster

I think your IACV is stuck.

I had the same issue a couple of times. The first time, it just went away. The second time, I lowered my throttle position screw all the way down until idle was decent. Turned the car off and tried to start the car. The car couldn't start with the throttle screw so down. Returned the screw to a normal setting and the idle was normal again.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Is the IACV inlet the little square just before the TB plate? I'm searching for more info on it now, but if anyone has a few quick answers I would greatly appreciate it.

Is the valve normally open or closed when the car is off? Without knowing exactly what I was looking at, that square is fully open.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

just looked at your map.

cold rev limit is 4500. what's your water temp in your logs when this happens?

also are you using an LC1 wideband or a Bosch wideband? on the 2nd tab over, if you're not using hte Bosch, set it to "NONE".

also, that pic of your plug in harness sure looks like the jumpers are set to "e420c" and not "factory"...

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

I wasn't logging at the time, but I was going through the calculation trace. My water temps were 65*C as it has been sitting for a couple hours. The limit is set to 60*C. It also didn't sound like it was hitting any sort of limiter.

The picture shows e420c, but I was just using that as a reference. My jumpers are on the factory ecu pins.

I am using an LC1. I will set the o2 sensor to none. I thought the LC1 kit had a Bosh sensor? Maybe I'm just confused. So I set the Serial In to LC1 and the other tab to None? I'll change that.

My short and long post crank settings were giving a fuel trim of 55%. I lowered those to try and rule that out.

What should I plug the IACV hole with? I just don't want some piece of tape to get sucked in.

Thanks!

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Ok, IACV it is. I just shoved my finger in there with a glove and it calmed down. I'll take it apart and clean it.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

wait, so you're talking about the boss on the passenger side of the TB for the idle air bypass? there's usually a screw in there you can crank down to lower idle.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

No, I know how to set that idle screw. I removed the elbow from the TB inlet and there is a square hole at the 6 o'clock position inside before the butterfly. I am only assuming that it is the IACV as that is what it looks like to me.

The square inside the TB is what I am referring to. This is fully open and when I cover it the idle drops down. I'm guessing it is the IACV? My assumption is that the motor below controls it and is either stuck or dead.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

oh right, yeah that is for the idle valve.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Damn, I took apart the TB and IACV and a couple small pebbles fell out of the IACV passage. The diaphragm must have been blocked. I ended up replacing the crappy Phillips head screws with 10.9 metric hex heads, must easier to take apart next time. Cleaned it all out and lubricated it. Works fine now.

Now back to the real problems...

I set my overboost limit to 180kpa and still hitting some cut off. It feels so fast nonetheless. My AFR is on the lean side I think and I don't sense any knock with my ears. Is there a way to see if the knock sensor is working? Do I just tap on the block and watch the counter?

Is it normal for the AFR to lag behind the MAP reading? I am guessing it is ok since the MAP is the first sensor in the chain? It is also normal for the AFR to get really high when off throttle since the injectors basically shut off when off throttle right?

This is a little 1-2-3 gear pull. Can you guys tell me if I am at any risk? I hit some sort of wall in the middle of 3rd gear. My overboost limit is set to 180kpa, but as you can see from the log, it was only seeing 172kpa. Let me know if you would like to see other data to go with this.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Ok, figured out the fuel/ignition cut. I forgot that I disconnected the WG reference line....n00b

Now it feels like what I was expecting. I am surprised the log did not capture whatever the overboost pressure was.

Now I have to put all the splash guards and bumper back in. No surprise that many of the plastic rivets broke.

TurboRoach

iTrader: (3)

The log is only updated every 0.1s. At the rate you were building boost it could easily miss 8kpa.

PhantomRoadster

WTF Of course now my idle is 500 rpms above normal. Not as bad as last time but my suggestion for fixing it didn't resolve it like last time. My idle is also logging in at 10 again. Looks like I have to clean my valve also.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Is your stock ecu controlling idle or the Adaptronic?

PhantomRoadster

adaptronic

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Once I finish installing my clutch I want to get the car dyno tuned. Should I be getting larger injectors? I'm hoping for about 200whp, and I know the calculations won't get me there. I know I'm not running a Begi kit, but their documents don't mention anything about larger injectors for their kits. Is this because they are using an adjustable or rising rate FPR? Should I get larger injectors for the sake of not having my stock ones as a bottle neck?

I have a set of RX7 460cc and 550cc available locally for $120

Stein

iTrader: (46)

IIRC, you can run about 8 psi max on the stock injectors, so you could run on wastegate for now. It's 7 I believe. I'd definitely suggest either the 460's or 550's, might as well go 550's if the price is the same. I'd get them cleaned, too. You don't want a partially clogged injector hosing your motor. Bear in mind if you dyno tune now, you will have to do it all over again if you up the injectors later, so it's money saved.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it was sort of a dumb question and I already knew the answer

I was just over-reading things and wondering why most of the Begi kits don't mention injectors. I would definitely only dyno tune once the larger injectors are in.

I finally got the car all put back together. I'm a bit disappointed that I mounted the IC slightly crooked, but it is ok for now. I'll take some pics in a day or so - I'm working this weekend


Thanks again.