I haven't updated this thread in a bit more than 9 months... but its finally here and getting attention.
This is the plan for my staged build, so that focus is given in stages to prevent extra work and to ensure that it is completed in a timely nature.
1. Chassis prep.
basically take it all apart as far as I possibly can. its pretty close now, but there are lots of parts on it still, mostly suspension. remove them all, disassemble, clean, verify things like bushings, bearings, etc, maybe paint and then reassemble.
2. Brake system prep.
Get the brakes in, with new lines and up to a working state. Once the car runs I can experiment with pads and stuff, I have some front HP+ pads that should hold me off for a few days once its together with stock rear pads. All will be upgraded once running.
3. Engine prep.
This will probably kind of happen along step 1 and 2 being that its basically the expensive part of getting this project back together and where I will be building custom parts to make this more or less a shop car.
Custom inlet manifold, that I will be doing some development and tuning on.
Stock header for the 1.8, which I have and is trimmed back to where the collector is 3". Im going to do a little work to it to make a nice long choke point to taper into a 3" aluminum exhaust with the same flange position my exhaust systems will have, so I can toss one of my turbo kits into it later with no exhaust changes. This will be used for engine break in. Full turbo kit will be implemented when I determine what power goals I need to achieve to be competitive once the car is together with full drivetrain for wet weight measurements.
4. Drivetrain prep
Coupled with the engine build, the drivetrain will be getting addressed. Going to try to find a 1.8 rear end swap to use (can be open diff for the time being, just to keep it cheap since I plan to run a nicer diff than a torsen)
Small diameter twin plate clutch -fast shifting will be needed to get this thing going.
Wire the engine to the microsquirt with the pre-made, labeled engine harness. Having both the Miata and the microsquirt together for the first time, it will be easy enough to build the harness as one piece and forgo the bulkhead connector. the microsquirt plug is 2-2.5" wide by an inch tall, which will be easy to find a hole in the firewall with a grommet for. Then wire in main, essential and accessory wires/relays.
At this time, I will be going over the entire chassis with a fine tooth comb. Determining whats needed, whats not and how to maximize all performance based aspects of the chassis package as well as aesthetics so that all modifications are done before paint.
Once its all together and finished, take it apart and paint the car. This will keep me from drilling holes, filling holes, etc after the paint is done to install engine/brakes/wiring.
By this point the car should be ready to start. It will be a very bare bones car, but the exciting part comes now.
for the car are to get it down to a very bare shell and continue to remove the factory tar from the underside of the chassis.
From there I will go all Jeffbuc and paint all of the suspension components, poly/delrin the bushings and replace some parts that I noticed needed attention while I was removing them.
Notes from suspension disassembly
-The front driver side lower control arm eccentrics were a bit mangled for some reason. The nut side eccentric washers were stripped of the D shape and probably would have made alignment a problem on that corner. Those will be replaced.
-The front outer tie rods and front balljoints will be replaced with new R package parts... the ultra angle steering knuckles I had on this car before didn't do them any favors.
-The front wheel bearings are fine on it right now, but the rear wheel bearings, upon inspection, didn't like what drifting and low offsets/high spring rates did to them. The rear wheel bearings will be replaced. They would probably be OK, but im not willing to risk it.