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Old 07-29-2016, 07:34 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
battery. even if it looks and reads ok, try swapping one in from your daily or something. deffinitly looks and sounds like its cranking slow.
I tried jumping it but it made no difference. It still cranked at the same speed
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:50 PM   #62
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Have you checked spark and fuel?
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:52 PM   #63
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Yes, but I will double check. To me it just seems like it's cranking too slow to start
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:02 PM   #64
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I'm thinking it's the starter
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Old 08-14-2016, 02:11 PM   #65
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Pull the plugs out and disconnect the fuel pump and see how it turns... Make sure you have no grinds and it turns freely by hand (no oil pump clearance issues etc. You want oil pressure on it before you start it anyways...
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:47 PM   #66
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UPDATE: It's been a long time since I've update this thread. I ran into lots of issues since my last post lots of which are a result of being new to megasquirt. I want to specifically thank Reverant for his support and everyone else for the helpful information.

The car now runs and drives, I have 100 miles on the motor and am going through the break-in period for my rings and bearings. There's still a few things I need to do, for one, I need a second catch can for the exhaust side. For two, The wiring is worn out and slightly exposed for my IAC valve and I need to possibly rewire it. This is causing erratic idle behavior and I don't like it. Other than the listed things, so far I'm happy with everything, I still have a lot to do with megasquirt. But I have the basics down,. VE table tuning using manual tuning/VEAL, warmup enrichment, idle settings, MAT correction table.

For those wondering since my last post I have switched to a NB starter and fab9 plug and play COPs.



Before I get crucified, a forewarning. My hood latch was broke, so I replaced it with hood latches. The previous owner cut a hole in the hood for the wastegate, I improvised. Also, obviously the catch can routing is temporary until I get an additional catch can, ignore it.

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Old 10-16-2016, 01:44 AM   #67
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looks great. just a quest your boost gauge is connected?
why it display 0 at idle?
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:11 PM   #68
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Boost gauge isn't connected yet, my vacuum line want long enough to reach where I mounted it. In the meantime I'm not hitting boost anyway til my rings have 500 miles on them.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:00 AM   #69
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Update: 250 miles on the engine. Everything seems to be running good. Still doing daily VEAL tunes trying to get my AFR's perfect. I'm getting super impatient, I want to get into some serious boost already.

What kind of break-in procedure have you guys gone though? Anyone just go straight to 20 psi after a rebuild?
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:03 AM   #70
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I autocrossed on 15 lbs at like 25 miles. no problem so far, @ 3,000.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:27 AM   #71
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You really should wait to go to 20 psi until the car is strapped on the dyno getting a tune, IMO tuning is the cheapest part of your engine build if you blow it up because timing is off or whatever.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:30 AM   #72
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Wayyyy more intelligent than me. ^^^^^ do what he says.
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Old 10-28-2016, 11:56 AM   #73
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Haha nice Ryan. And I appreciate the advice, I plan on running a max of 15 psi until further notice. I'm really unsure about the safe zone I have running 91 octane on 8.6:1 compression. I'm obviously running a lower compression ratio than stock, but I want to run as safe as possible and stay far away from knock.
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:20 PM   #74
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Update:
Hello fellow Miatians, have you ever been completely lost and don't know what to do? That's me, let me explain my situation.
I had 350 miles on my new engine and everything was running good. However, since the engine was pulled in and out multiple times my wiring was a mess so I decided to clean it up a little (big mistake I guess.) I put some wiring loom on my harness and cleaned everything up by unwrapping part of the harness removing the coil pack plugs and then rewrapping the harness. This doesnt require any wire cutting and this part of the harness just comes right off after the wrap is removed. No big deal right?



However, upon next start my car started right up on the first crank. I then changed some idle settings in megasquirt because I was trying to dial in the idle. Now the car won't start at all. It cranks but no fire.
At first I thought I messed up the wiring so I checked for fuel, I have fuel.
Next I checked for spark, I have spark.
Finally I thought it was the CAS, so I switched it out with another one. Still no start.
I have no clue what went wrong, I checked voltages, I have the right voltages at the CAS and my coils. I have brand new fab9 COPs. I am now lost, I am going through the wiring harness wire by wire but can't find any problems.
Suggestions??

If anyone could give me any lead I would be super happy.
Attached Files
File Type: msq nov 7.msq (99.4 KB, 3 views)
File Type: msl 2016-11-08_16.01.27.msl (46.8 KB, 3 views)
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:29 PM   #75
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Did you try to go back to the tune where the car started up? The car should run if you have fuel and the spark is timed
correctly, check firing at the correct cylinder and order you can do that without cranking it in the test mode
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:29 PM   #76
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double post
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:33 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHammerly View Post
firing at the correct cylinder
This is my guess, are you sure no plugs got swapped around on accident?
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:40 PM   #78
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I tried going back to a previous tune it made no difference. Also, it's impossible to get the cops wiring mixed up with the fab9 harness (see picture.) But thanks for the suggestion about the test mode I'll have to try it.

Another piece of information, I could tell at first the car would try to run on cylinder 2 only, then everything just stopped altogether.

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Old 11-17-2016, 05:26 PM   #79
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About a week later, I'm still working on this off and on when I have time. I've tried new spark plugs and it didn't make a difference. Also I used the output test mode and it worked great, thanks for the suggestion. I have spark on all cylinders. I also verified the right fuel injector plugs are on each fuel injector according to the wiring diagram. Took off the valve cover to make sure the timing belt didn't skip a tooth, it looks fine. Not sure what else to do, that's why I'm here.
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Old 11-17-2016, 05:38 PM   #80
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That is so strange, so you know that the ignition timing is correct, a compression test may show a timing belt issue, the car would run wihth the wrong fuel timing but not with very low fuel pressure, i would tee of your fuel line an dput a pressure gauge to make sure that you have enough fuel pressure (you can turn on the pump in the ms on test mode)
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