90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-09-2010, 01:09 PM   #41
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CR Auto Collision in Snellville. Chico is the owner and he's got a pretty understanding of how to paint a car based on what it's worth, or what the owner wants. I explained to him that I had about $800 in the car as it rolled up and that I wanted a color change. He did the color change for $800 and some extra body work $100. That included the hard top which I have some issues (small bubbles at the base) BUT that should be covered under the "any issues at all" one year warranty.

Brainy- they're price because you want a good one. One option is to buy used- I've had some very good used buys from BH.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:04 PM   #42
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Thanks for the info. I will talk to him when I am ready to get my car painted.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:09 AM   #43
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Default intake manifold

It was just a matter of the right person wanting some spare parts I had and the deal was struck to make my hybrid intake manifold a reality. Local tuner/fab guy and forum member Ferdi pulled off a phenomenal execution.

Magnus manifold and FE flange as handed to Ferdi:


More trim on both parts for improved port/runner alignment:




Quote:
This is where it gets interesting. The original Magnus runners were 2"OD tubing, but the best match to the stock ports was ~1.65"OD tubing. I needed to make some nice transition funnels and the last thing I wanted to do was slice a tube lengthwise and form them myself. So, I lathed a steel bar into a tapered mandrel, annealed the tubes, went to the hydraulic press, and to my surprise everything worked like it was supposed to, which is seldom the case... Pressing out the mandrel after pressing it into the tube was exciting - it almost maxes out the 20-ton press and once it finally lets go you better have something underneath to catch it, it's pretty much a small explosion, lol. By the way, to anneal aluminum you just scribble some sharpie lines on the tubing, heat it up until the marks disappear, and then let it slowly cool down. The thermometer on my grill hood maxes out at 700F and that's about the time the marks burned off. I am sure the temperature at the grates is much higher.









Finished manifold, ported, support arm tab and throttle cable bracket boss added.


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Old 09-23-2010, 12:40 AM   #44
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****.
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:28 AM   #45
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Subscribed to here.
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:12 AM   #46
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o wow
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:43 AM   #47
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nice build....

i cant think of how much the would suck having your car crushed by a tree :( good thing you can rebuild...
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:22 AM   #48
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This is hot rodding at its best!
My Todo list just got a bunch of new entries.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:51 AM   #49
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Rob, thats a much better looking system then before. im interested to see the results you get from this.

When will the car/a car be back on the road again?
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:56 AM   #50
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Good question. Work dominates me atm. But the garage is complete. I'm wiring the lift this weekend. I need a plan to do the swap. At this point I'm thinking I should put the crusher on the lift and start parting it. Once that's done and cleared out, I'll have the full space available of that car to start the swap into the new car.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:38 AM   #51
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Thanks for the writeup on the intake manifold... that gives me an idea of some new things that i thought that i wouldnt be able to do with my tooling that i had. or more importantly didnt want to bother doing.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:28 AM   #52
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Default deconstruction begins

Got four hours in yesterday. Everything removed from the rear, so the sub is ready to drop. Though I'll hold on off on that in the interest of rear ballast.
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:08 AM   #53
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This thread is awesome. I see many well spent hours browsing here.
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:38 AM   #54
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Someone at the track gave me hell for mixing industrial (JIC) fittings with Army Navy, now I don't feel so bad.
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Old 10-16-2010, 01:24 PM   #55
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I thought they were the same, I saw a number of products listed at JIC/AN fittings while buying some new fittings for my oil cooler.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:51 PM   #56
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As far as I know, the threads on -AN fittings are made to much tighter tolerances for more strength.

--Ferdi
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Old 10-17-2010, 10:28 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftjandra View Post
As far as I know, the threads on -AN fittings are made to much tighter tolerances for more strength.

--Ferdi
True and since hustler's not IN THE NAVY (he can sail the seven seas!), it's probably fine.
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:57 PM   #58
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Made some progress this week. Just need to drop both subframes, wiring and pull out engine bay leftovers.
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:32 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftjandra View Post
As far as I know, the threads on -AN fittings are made to much tighter tolerances for more strength.

--Ferdi
Not quite, its all in the threads...

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleStronger.html
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:34 AM   #60
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subscribed. ill go kick myself in the nuts for missing this thread before.
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