90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo - Page 8 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-11-2014, 02:58 AM   #141
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 656
Total Cats: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpt323 View Post
god im excited to see this run again.
Me Too!

What ford throttle body are you running?
yank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 08:51 AM   #142
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

65mm from Mustang (CrownVic/etc) 5.0 v8. $16 delivered with TPS & IAC- dirt cheap because they're Mustang upgrade leftovers.
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 10:44 AM   #143
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,662
Total Cats: 227
Default

Wow! So glad to see this thing live again. It seems like it's been forever since the silver car was destroyed in that horrible accident.

Good luck sir.
Fireindc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 04:11 PM   #144
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

thx - Forever... five years in April. But that's what happens when you add another project car as daily driver, plus two kids.
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2014, 12:32 PM   #145
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default subframe

Realized I never did a completed subframe post. This shows the addendum - (cut from the same box steel I dropped into the sectioned area) which spans across the original subframe and new section, from LCA mount on each side. I cut out everything under the steering rack tabs and removed the seam weld on the subframe. Welded up the seam and then ground it flat. Slipped the newly cut piece from the box in front of the subframe and behind/under the steering rack mounts, then welded it up. This created a unified member for the subframe and steering rack.









Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-00-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-03-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-04-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-07-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-08-800.jpg  

90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-12-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0608_fe3-subframe-14-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0616_fe3-subframe-1402-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-13_0616_fe3-subframe-1407-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 09:58 AM   #146
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

Got the ledge under the brake booster sectioned (plasma cutter win- again) and welded up with some L shaped plate - now have a place to run the down pipe.





Also got -10AN fittings brazed to the stock heater core tubes. Welded steel tubes (salvage from an old bike frame) to the steel AN fittings and then swaged the brass heater tubes for a slip fit. Then went to work with some silver solder and heat- just like sweating copper pipes. I'll weld some tabs on the fittings so they anchor to the firewall for support.

Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0216_fe3-enginebay-02-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0216_fe3-enginebay-03-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0216_fe3-enginebay-08-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0217_fe3-heater-tube-2-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2014, 12:57 PM   #147
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

Cleaned, prepped and painted from the base of the windshield forward.
Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0308_fe3-engine-bay-01-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2014, 01:04 AM   #148
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 656
Total Cats: 28
Default

Progress! Looks great!
yank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2014, 01:15 AM   #149
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,662
Total Cats: 227
Default

Nice! I'm excited.
Fireindc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2014, 09:36 AM   #150
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

04-05 AC bracket mod is complete. Bathroom scale says this will save 10+ lbs over the 90 compressor and bracket. Started by cutting up the OE aluminum bracket. Bolted it up to a wood block jig so I could cut that "dip" (red line) off the back and removed the front boss (yellow) using a metal cutting miter/circular saw. Then put it to the belt sander for a good flat to mate to a half inch aluminum plate.


Next I went to work on it and the aluminum plate with a saw, drill and welder to make this:


Final installation has five motor-mount-sized bolts to the block. It will include a tensioner pulley hung from stock armature above, bolted to block (visible just above wp port.) I'll use an 04-05 condenser and cut/bend/swage/braze lines to work with this compressor location. But for the time being the AC stuff is done until the car is running/driving. Just needed to get this done while the engine was out since I pulled a stupid and removed the crank/pulley from my spare block in a rush to get it off the floor, on a shelf and out of the way.

Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-compressorbracket-al500b.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0321_fe3-ac-02-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0321_fe3-ac-06-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0321_fe3-ac-bracket-2-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 10:06 AM   #151
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

I found a nice layer of varnish in my gas tank when I went to swap in the big fuel pump. Since it scraped off easy enough, I figured it wise to swap in my other clean gas tank now rather than finding out later I had an issue. I suspect it was this way while drove the car in stock form since it sat for nearly four years unused and I drained the fuel in the tank before commencing on this swap. Also replaced the soft tank-to-hard line hoses and clamps since the old were cracked and rock hard. Fortunately the filler/vent hoses were in great shape and de/reinstalled easily.



Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0424_fe3-varnish-00.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0424_fe3-gas-tank-11-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0424_fe3-gas-tank-12-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 12:19 PM   #152
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 3,507
Total Cats: 248
Default

put some 14ga wires for that fuel pump while you're in there
soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 12:51 PM   #153
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

It's on the list.
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2014, 05:12 PM   #154
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

Below- Revised Miata fuel pump Circuit Opening relay wiring for my application, using an ecu ground trigger vs. the Miata's stock starter/ecu 12v signal.


Upgraded the fuel pump leads.


Opening Circuit Relay (fuel pump) rewire is complete.
Jumper harness to provide main relay 12v to the stock starter/ecu 12v post.


Revised connector with jumper in place. Jumper provides 12v to the original main relay post and the former starter/ecu post. The violet wire (ecu signal) is now moved to the ground slot as the Jaguar ECU sends a ground signal to turn on the fuel pump. New 14 ga. power feed to the fuel pump is lower/back. Green/red is the safety ground that runs to the air flow meter. Which I plan to run to an oil pressure switch (at this time.)
Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-fuel-pump-wiring-jaga3.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0503_new-fuel-pump-wires-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0503_ocr-jumper-800.jpg   90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0503_ocr-connector-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 12:43 AM   #155
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 78
Total Cats: 0
Default

why the F did mazda use such a design for the pump relay.
bpt323 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 10:52 PM   #156
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

That's how it was done in everything they built of that generation. Search "circuit opening relay" and you'll see. Here's the original wiring for comparison.

Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-corrected-fuel-diagram.gif  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 11:07 PM   #157
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 78
Total Cats: 0
Default

I somehow missed the aluminum AC bracketry. did you AL mig that? what system do you have?
bpt323 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 09:12 AM   #158
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

Yes- Eastwood MIG 175 with spool gun. It works quite well, but I've yet to try it on intercooler tubing.
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:30 PM   #159
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

New brake and clutch master installed. Prices on these have come down so much that rebuilding just isn't worth the time imo. Also got the brake lines reworked (no cutting, flaring or junctions) to put my proportioning valve up and away from the down pipe. It never gave me problems before, but I never stopped thinking about it. This is probably one of the bigger issues with top mount turbo manifolds- putting the down pipe up high in the engine bay. New location works with hood (for reference check out how the wiper motor sits on the other side.) New heater core stubs with AN fittings installed and leak checked. That was a tough job but they're tightly anchored as stock, and I used a SBC PCV grommet (referenced on m.net) that provides some serious support at the firewall.

Attached Thumbnails
90 FE-dohc (FE3) Turbo-14_0428_fe3-masters-heater-800.jpg  
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2014, 01:31 PM   #160
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 6,950
Total Cats: 139
Default

***
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 53 12-07-2016 05:52 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
ISO 1.6 turbo cast iron manifold cale saurage DIY Turbo Discussion 16 10-01-2015 12:25 PM


Tags
engine swap, fe-dohc, fe3, turbo

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:46 AM.