You don't want to see the cleanest wiring harness on earth?
I want to do this, and it is on my, "I have nothing else to do and a lot of spare cash laying around" list. If I'm doing it, going all out and doing a full wire tuck as well as circuit breaker style fuse boxes, bulkhead fittings yadda yadda.
Originally Posted by aidandj
I want to see this thing beaten on and driven hard.
BUT, I want to do this more. Ain't no need to rewire the entire car currently.
E02K this for you. Larger volume oil filter part number for a Bosch filter.
Cut roughly an inch off, glad I didn't do more as it is just perfect for how many threads an oil filter has. Oil filter seats perfectly and nary an oil leak to be found after several cranking cycles. Kept having to add a bunch of oil as the Setrab oil cooler filled up...damn the bitch is huge. Was getting about 12 psi on oil pressure with just cranking, so it looks solid to me.
First start tomorrow, I really wanted to crank it over but it's 3am and I don't know the new neighbors well enough to justify idling a downpipe exit Miata for several minutes.
You don't strictly have to use both ports on the EWG quite yet. Hook it up exactly like you had it before to the top port, leave the EWG bottom port open to atmo and roll with it until you figure out how you want to plumb things. It'll function exactly like the single port actuator did on the Garrett.
You don't *have* to use both ports right now, but it's not hard and it makes tuning boost control a lot easier IME.
The TurboSmart EWG that I have uses a valve that opens upward. The spring is in the top keeping it closed, and there are chambers above and below the diaphragm attached to the spring. The 4-port solenoid acts by flipping which pair of valves are connected to each other -- if it's A-B and C-D with no power, then it's A-D and B-C with power.
Given that you want to hook it up so that with no power, the boost source goes into port A, out port B, and then into the chamber below the diaphragm, while the chamber above the diaphragm goes to port C and then D which is open to atmo. Thus, with no power it's hooked up mechanically. Once you apply power, the solenoid flips and now A goes to C, so boost is delivered to the top chamber, forcing the valve closed, while the pressure in the bottom chamber can vent through B to D.
At least, that's how it works on my TS valve, not sure how "top" and "bottom" map with your valve and your EFR, but it should be fairly obvious which one opens the valve and which one holds it shut.
I think his MAC EBC is the 3 port version of the 4 port that we both have, so his plumbing will be slightly different.
I want to see him use the 4 port valve and 2 port actuator. 12~14psi on a 3lb spring with boost by gear
Hm, yeah, I hadn't looked at the diagram he posted closely enough.
Now that I do, I don't know how that would work. If it's a 3-port solenoid and it's swapping pressure between the top and bottom chambers, then it seems like it would have to build up pressure in one of the cambers with no way to ever let it vent.
I second the motion to go with the 4 port valve. I *really* like it on mine.
Hahahahahaha oh my god that was the most hilarious drive ever. I thought it got attention before...I was pulled over twice (please fi. Your exhaust sir)and had 4 ricers chase me down to race them(which I didn't oblige bcstuning) and every head was metaphorically magnetized to my car. Oh man it is loud and that EFR whine is just simply delicious. If I was 5 years younger I'd consider keeping it like this.