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Old 09-18-2014, 12:41 PM   #41
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I heard the blues squeal more and that was why they changed.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:10 PM   #42
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Yeah, the m.net crowd couldnt handle the cold belt squeal at startup. They kept tightening the belts to the point where it would max out the auto tensioner, then **** started breaking. I suspect this is what caused that one guy (maybe Roy?) to snap the drive shaft off his -74.

There is nothing wrong with the blue one, its just really expensive for what it is. The whole last 1,000 miles or so I put on the kit was with a blue.
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:06 PM   #43
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OOOOOO So shiny!


New vs old:


Installed... Sealed/ducted the **** out of everything, so hopefully it solves my cooling issues.



The car does this on cold start (this amount is from a few starts). Rings? Valve seals? The black stuff seems like burned carbon and water... not that oily.




Track day Sunday!
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:24 AM   #44
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As long as you're not consuming oil and getting minimal blowby in your catch can, I wouldn't worry about the spots from starting.
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #45
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Quote:
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As long as you're not consuming oil and getting minimal blowby in your catch can, I wouldn't worry about the spots from starting.
It consumes lots of oil... around 1/2 quart per track day.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:03 AM   #46
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Just monitor the leakdowns then. I wouldn't worry about half a quart for a full track day. That's still within reason (high side of reason). When you get to half a quart per session . . . that's another story.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #47
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How were your water temps at your track day?
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:06 PM   #48
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How were your water temps at your track day?
Will know next Sunday
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:28 PM   #49
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Track day was a success... No temperature issues with the new radiator, and the Rotrex belt stayed put. Sweet.

Ran a best lap of 2:09.4x(on 205 Rival tires), spec miata record is 2:09.0x, so the car and driver are getting a lot faster. My best theoretical lap was a 2:07.xx but I kept running into traffic on good laps.



New problem: brakes


Mega pad taper:




These are stock 1.8 sized brakes with Carbotech XP10 in front and XP8 in rear. They got glazed and squishy during session 2, and I had trouble stopping in the pits when they were cold- I almost rear ended a Camaro lining up for session 3. I feel like I could pull another second or two with more confidence in the brakes. There is a straightaway where I was hitting 120mph and having to pump the brakes a few times to get the car slowed down. Not good for confidence.

Will probably be purchasing a 11.75" kit for the front and sport rotors for the rears. XP12/XP10 pad combo? Any other recommendations?
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:29 PM   #50
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Glad to hear (almost) everything was a success! But dat taper, damn!

How about the rest of the system? Good fluid in the lines? Flushed recently? Where do your ducts hook up in the front?
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:36 PM   #51
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Yep, taper leading to glazing.

A fixed-caliper BBK on the front will definitely help. Not sure I'd bother with sport rears though. Consumables become more expensive and harder to find with the sport brakes for not much difference in braking capacity. Just install an adjustable prop valve (or do you have ABS?) and balance out the BBK. Anecdotally, I removed a gen 1 Goodwin BBK from my rears halfway through a 2-day track event and enjoyed better braking with the OEM 1.8 discs.
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:57 PM   #52
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Yeah, I'm not hardcore enough for sport caliper rears, but I did pick up a set of M-Tuned rear brackets. Larger sport rotors but standard non sport 1.8 calipers and non sport 1.8 pads. I figured it was the best mix of performance and low cost consumables.

I'll eventually be rocking the 11.75s and a prop valve, but I'm trying not to spend cash unless I've got an actual need. Things are working so well for me right now that I don't want to screw with it.
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:10 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Glad to hear (almost) everything was a success! But dat taper, damn!

How about the rest of the system? Good fluid in the lines? Flushed recently? Where do your ducts hook up in the front?
Good fluid & it was recently changed... Ducts are hooked up to the holes in a R style lip, 3" ducts. This track (HPR) seems pretty hard on brakes- there is a 120-75 brake zone, and another 100-40ish zone.



Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Yep, taper leading to glazing.

A fixed-caliper BBK on the front will definitely help. Not sure I'd bother with sport rears though. Consumables become more expensive and harder to find with the sport brakes for not much difference in braking capacity. Just install an adjustable prop valve (or do you have ABS?) and balance out the BBK. Anecdotally, I removed a gen 1 Goodwin BBK from my rears halfway through a 2-day track event and enjoyed better braking with the OEM 1.8 discs.

I already have a prop valve, and it's currently nearly maxed for rear bias. I was looking at the adapter kit that puts normal rear calipers on sport sized rotors. That way I keep the cheaper pads of standard rear calipers, but get more rotor area/leverage/thermal capacity (and sport rotors aren't too much more $$). It seems like I glazed the rears as well- I tried panic braking on the way home, and couldn't get either end of the car to lock up no matter how hard I pushed the pedal.




Edit- Vids:

Best lap- lost time from the Datsun 510 at the beginning not signaling that he was leaving the track, and the drift near the end. Sorry the video is so blown out- camera was pointed too far down.

Follow Cam:

Last edited by dcamp2; 09-29-2014 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:57 PM   #54
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Your rotors don't look like they bedded properly. Happy carbotech bedded rotors have a bluish sheen to them. Unhappy rotors have snot streaks. With unhappy rotors the pad doesn't brake very well, and in my case ate themselves in two track days.

The initial bedding process is crucial; changing pads won't help. If you continue to run Carbotechs you'll need to get the rotor resurfaced, and then bed the new pads.

I am now running Cobalt Friction and have been happy with them. XR1 front / XR2 rear. They don't care about transfer layers on the rotor. I got 8 days out of the fronts.
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Old 10-02-2014, 09:41 PM   #55
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Quote:
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Your rotors don't look like they bedded properly. Happy carbotech bedded rotors have a bluish sheen to them. Unhappy rotors have snot streaks. With unhappy rotors the pad doesn't brake very well, and in my case ate themselves in two track days.

The initial bedding process is crucial; changing pads won't help. If you continue to run Carbotechs you'll need to get the rotor resurfaced, and then bed the new pads.

I am now running Cobalt Friction and have been happy with them. XR1 front / XR2 rear. They don't care about transfer layers on the rotor. I got 8 days out of the fronts.



I thought the rotor looked weird. Anyway- these rotors/pads lasted at least 8 days for me (without forced induction), and I had no complaints until the supercharger.

Either way, I have all new bigger pads/rotors coming for the car. I'll make sure to follow instructions on proper bedding in procedure.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:21 AM   #56
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I just love watching your Dad trying to keep up! I told him to just let you go! He's too old! HAHA
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:32 AM   #57
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I just love watching your Dad trying to keep up! I told him to just let you go! He's too old! HAHA
Haha yeah, he is getting too old for this. But- he's made some big improvements in speed since getting started last year.




Major work & reckless spending going on...

New rear hubs (so I don't die), properly de-powered steering rack with welded pinion:



Got my buddy TJ to do the welding... he couldn't find his mask (just moved), so we made one from a $5 home depot replacement welding mask glass and and a coors light box. Win.



New poly bushings with zerk fittings all around (new iphone pictures too)


949 BBK going in front, sport rotors/adapters in the rear. Had to grind the steering rod end ball joint thing to clear the BBK:


Tight:


Good news is they fit under the Kosei K4R wheels easily. Was a little worried I'd be buying new wheels too.


Still to do:
-install/bleed brake calipers and bed in new pads
-Set ride height (lower) and get alignment with more camber
-Go to Pueblo Motorsports Park for the first time on Oct. 25 (I hope)
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:40 PM   #58
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I wish I had taken more time and cleaned/painted my control arms! Those look great!

I'm older than your Dad, no wonder I'm so slow!!
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:04 PM   #59
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I wish I had taken more time and cleaned/painted my control arms! Those look great!

I'm older than your Dad, no wonder I'm so slow!!

Haha, the arms look good, but now everything else looks dirty and old.

Age is just a number! Send it next time you're on track!

Last edited by dcamp2; 10-13-2014 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:56 PM   #60
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Old age and treachery FTW!!!
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