deezums

iTrader: (3)

You are completely right, I am hoping the added restrictions I'm adding will help decrease the flow rate. In other words, I am upsizing the valve because I am increasing the restriction in the line pretty good. I plan to use right angle NPT pipe nipples which flow like garbage and all those other HDracing goodies so if necessary I can step the barb size down and increase restriction even more.

Also, for a cyclone style separator to work I believe you might need more flow than normal stock valve would provide. I don't want flow just petering through there, I'd like it to make a little turn or two to throw oil out.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Going to take the head off tonight, scheduled to have the thing decked tomorrow morning, wonder if I can get this done in 2 days...

What are these, manifold collector gasket and tiny o-rings?



Bought a 6" c clamp to make a DIY spring compressor for valve seals. 6" is enough, right? I will make it enough.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I don't think 6" will be enough, at least not for a 1.8 head I know it wouldn't be enough. You have to be able to "open" it more to get it over the head. You might can make it work. You'll need a little tube the diameter of the retainer with some holes cut in it so you can compress the spring and then pull the keepers out. Like this.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, my plan was to core out a socket, weld it to the bucket and use a stick magnet to reach the keepers. Do you happen to know about what diameter stock I'd need, so I could use a shorter section of pipe instead? Edit: went through BogusSVO threads, 1.027od..

I guess I have a bar clamp that would probably work, I'd of bought 8" if they flippin had them.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yeah I used slightly over 1" OD pipe/Tube. Make sure you make the hole big enough you can install the keepers too, you have to do that part too....

deezums

iTrader: (3)

New thread title, watch me melt my pistons while washing away some rings

I don't know, how bad does this all look to you? I'm not too disappointed for my first turbo tuning experience.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Holy carbon build up Here's mine for comparison:</p><p></p>

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Well change something on PCV, dammmmnnnnn those pistons are nasty!!!! Are you going to clean the tops off? I would highly recommend it... Also you got a leaking intake valve in your pic, third from left.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I'm thinking about running water/meth. That should clean up the pistons real nice.</p>

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I can confirm water injection cleans pistons.

No PCV + WI =

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I don't think I've got carbon issues, I think I've got melted pistons all over my exhaust valve problems, heh.



I replaced all 16 valve stem seals, **** that job right in the starfish. I will be ecstatic if I never see another keeper again in my life. 6" was enough, you just need to stay under 2" of socket, have to put the socket in the bucket then pivot the foot over onto the valve otherwise it no fit.



I was amazed how little was inside my intake manifold. Strangely, there's more oil and garbage nearer the throttle body than the PCV port. Odd?



I was hoping I might be able to straight tap the air valve ports to NPT, but they are too big. I'd like 1/4NPT, 1/2NPT would be cutting close still. I'll need to make a blocking plate like I showed earlier.

I finally finished my spacerless reroute by carving massive holes in the head. Was fun, is close. Had to make clearance for the motherfucking hose clamp (3/8NPT 5/8HB) it's that close. Scary stuff, buy a spacer kids.



I tapped the cursed water plug for 1/8NPT, then stuck the dash temperature gauge in there, clearance for the thermostat. Saturn SL1 1.9L has 1/8NPT CLT sensor with stock GM curves, but a different connector. Internet research says early ions might have had 1/8 NPT with the standard GM connector, so I'm going to try and find that.

Also, I think my coolant use was from the intake manifold gasket leaking, WTF? The oil returns on the head gasket looked jacked up, but I think they might have ripped when I lifted the head. Whatever, it'll be fixed now.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

not sure if you were joking, but you dont have melted piston on anything. there would be CLEAR evidence if that was the case.

my intake looked terrible, i should have taken a pic. solid, thick, black, oil sludge everywhere. do you still have the exhaust side VC port running to the intake? maybe thats where the TB oil is from?

hooray for 1 less cursed water plug in the world!

deezums

iTrader: (3)

It's not the face of my pistons being eroded by light detonation or something? That's not carbon, but actually etched into the piston face, or so I thought.

I would much prefer my pistons to not melt, and would have more faith in my tuning and det cans if that wern't det scars.

My exhaust side breather vent was hooked up to the intake still when I bought the miata, and actually was up till I went turbo if I remember right? From the looks of things, it seems that the PCV port might actually be cleaning the intake? I guess it probably picks up enough fuel vapor at times or something.

Ion does not use 1/8NPT but some strange small metric thread and crush washers. I bought a SL1 temp sensor and now I need to go to a junkyard for the pigtail. Sensor is $11, pigtail? $44.00

Thought I was in best buy for a minute

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

No that's not aluminum, it's carbon from your engine injecting oil and trying to burn it. That's how carbon forms in the combustion chambers like that, from injesting oil. You absolutely have carbon issues, and they are serious.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

im no expert, but it just looks like carbon build up to me. my pistons look the same with 0 boost, although the last 3000 miles have had a more aggressive timing map via megasquirt. but its nothing radical and i run 91.



when ive seen detonation pits on a picton crown, ive always seen it accompanied by pits on the head quench zone, and yours looks great. also det pits are usually obvious and extend through the carbon exposing aluminum.

like this




i have to admit most of my experience is on dirt bikes with a sample size of maybe a few. in either case det cans dont sound like a bad idea.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

the other thing ive failed to mention in the last 2 posts lol. pat is right, lots of oil, or shitty gas causes white deposits on the hotter parts, like exhaust valves and plug electrodes.

my valves looked the same but worse, especially from the leaky stem seals
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1238051

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Get some Mopar combustion chamber cleaner.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Maybe I won't back my tune out then, I'm still using DIYautotune numbers in boost and I've moved some stuff around near cruise trying to find economy, I honestly wasn't expecting detonation scars, didn't think I'd ever been that hard on it.



Pretty much done at this point, need some thread sealant for the tubing barb, then it'll be about time to go back together.

The plug in the CLT senosr is just a motherboard header, normal .1" spacing. Score! I'll try driving to the junkayrd like that.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

got it, was not impressed.

orielly brand cheap *** aerosol engine degreaser worked just the same, was 1/4 the price and didnt have to be special ordered, or visit the chysler dealer.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Ooh, I have that. Why'd I not think to use that? I'm getting too high off this damn gasoline.

Also, 1 and 4 are spotless! No det is best det