deezums

iTrader: (3)

Looks like I'm buying a $175 95 1.8 longblock

I've been reading, and with e85 being cool burning and practically det-free I think I'm just going to stick ebay rods on the stock pistons. No fancy oil pump, no expensive damper.

Even after all the bits to buy and machining I'm going to need done I'll still have a thousand dollar 1.8, but at least it will be a nearly new poppin' fresh 1.8.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

So I'm likely going to help a friend reassemble a 99 1.8 this weekend, maybe bring my 1.8 longblock home too. He pulled the head to fix the gasket, but he's having all sorts of trouble getting the intake manifold back on. I guess he about got it before realizing he missed wiring harness, so it had to come all the way back off again? He's about given up, wants to trailer it to a shop.

Anyway, after all the mini cooper training I don't think I'll have a problem helping and saving the trailer.

Is there super secret trick for getting intake manifold nuts on 99+ 1.8? I don't remember having trouble, but I have the far superior 1.6 rev machine as reference. I think I just poked at the studs with a socket on a stick if I remember right...

Tips, please?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Is the engine in the car or on a stand? Nothing is overly "hard" with getting the intake manifold nuts on the studs, they are just in awkward positions on the bottom. There are coolant lines and other things that make reaching and starting the nuts a pain. It is doable, you will just hate doing it.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, still in the car.

Thanks man, I'll bring all my swivels and extensions, socket magnets. I'll be able to make it work, practically have callouses on the back of my hands from working on cramped ****

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

The top of the IM needs to be off when putting it back on the car. All the top ones are easy to get to with an open ended wrench. The bottom ones just need a deep socket and some extensions. The 2 coolant lines that go to and from the filter are what get in the way. I would also reccomend disconnecting the battery so you don't hit the starter and cause sparks.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

You can reach around the water lines, right? I've never paid close attention to the oil cooler, but they are rubber right? The block should be empty if I need to move them. If the manifold is off I can probably even just break the lines loose, it always seems a lot easier to get that hose barb stuff together in tight space rather than apart.

Thanks!

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

The last time I did mine, I loosened (slightly, 1 - 2 turns) the driver side motor mount bolt (through the sub frame) and removed the passenger side nut + jacked the passenger side up a bit to help me see and feel what was what. FWIW.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the tips guys, I was able to reach between the AC lines with a ratchet while steering with my other hand comping back from above the starter. Tight spaces, no fun. Will assemble the next one outside the car.

I also have 1.8 finally! Needs a little work, but I'll make it work.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Even got the baller protégé valve cover.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

SADfab is really growing up

we all 3 have some form of a 1.8 sitting around now

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Big boy motor time

I wouldn't mind trading the protege cover for a 99+, would like to ditch the cas. PCV stuff is in weird spots too... Wonder what it's worth.

I have some really weird crank pulley **** too, looks like I can continue using v-belt water pump and alternator, but it also has a proper crank trigger wheel.

Need rods, get some new stock pistons coated, see if Lars still has the other 1.8 bits for me...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Coat pistons?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I need to read more, but ceramic on top and moly on the sides. Should help keep heat out of puny pistons.

Plus I can run tight stock clearances, so I can continue to start my car and drive away before the idle's even settled without worrying about it beating itself to death.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Seems like overkill

deezums

iTrader: (3)

If it's around $120 bucks for a set of four? I'd have slightly stronger pistons and rods for around 500 bucks. I'm gonna read more like I said, but I believe it'd be worth it.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Polish crown

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I don't have a spare 99 head for you, sorry. I may have all the crank stuff along with the other bits. I really need to get over to my families place and check out what I have there.

Your 1.8 manifold is being worked on also.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

That's a cheap idea, I do have pistons that look like they're in good shape. I could save a few hundred bucks...

I don't need a 99 head, but I would like a 99 valve cover is what I meant to say. I think all the 1.8 valve covers are interchangeable, right, besides vvt?

No rush still, I'm still moving till the end of this month, plus probably another month of fixing my new garage up. I won't be using 1.8 power for a minute unfortunately.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I thought i remember reading a thing saying a good polish is as good or better than most coatings and you dont run the risk of flaking.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I know @TNTUBA switched from polished to coated this season. He doesn't always explain fully why (competition secrets?) but he said the people at the coating place he used convinced him why it was better than polish.