deezums

iTrader: (3)

Redid my reroute today, installed my old 195 degree thermostat with no holes. Ran the cursed water plug up to the throttle body, then plugged the old coolant feed line at the front of the manifold with the ol' cursed water plug.

I can feel the new throttle body feed line getting hot, so there's circulation by the thermostat. Also, no holes in your thermostat sure helps it to hold heat on the highway. I see a nice steady 180-195 or so. Sitting still can climb to 205, but the fan settles that out quickly.

I'm super happy, best ~$55 bucks I've spent thus far!

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I just wanted to stop in and say thank you for posting a link to that intercooler. I ordered same one for my newly acquired MSM and it just arrived, and I am really impressed with the quality for the price. Props given

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

that seller owes deezums a cut. i think you are like the 5th MT.net-er to get that intercooler.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Haha, no problem guys. Glad to help when I can!

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Installed my wideband CAN/OBD2 interface today, super happy with it so far. Using the analog wideband input was OK because I could fudge it with a calibration offset, but once I went turbo the range of AFRs I need to run got a lot wider, so it was a lot harder to match the offset perfectly. I could get 14-17 to be pretty spot on, but then I'd read .3-.5 lean when deep into boost. I'd ask for 11.8 and get 11.3 or richer using autotune. Not the end of the world, by any means.

Much better now, it's dead on all across the range of the gauge. I should be able to run autotune without having to touch stuff up by hand afterwards! Extra accurate EGO correction is a bonus, too.



I didn't take many pictures, I was too busy cussing at wires from under the dash to stop and remember the fun in photos.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Yep I got that intercooler too lol.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Had a heater hose break on me, miata got really hot. Fixed it on the highway, filled it up, and drove it back home. I can't recommend the 5/8 to 5/8 heater hose barb like I used in my reroute, 5/8 is a little small for the stock heater hose diameter. It works, it just may blow up a week later.

Sure looked like I was wasting coolant out the exhaust while I was on the side of the highway, had a nice stream of water and smoke spitting out, but that seems all gone now. It's been a few days and I've since made a better hose coupler that fits better, think I may have just got extra stupid lucky. My dash needle pegged though, my dumb *** wasn't paying attention and I didn't see the steam because I was going down the highway at night and it was a small leak. I'm hoping I just lost enough coolant to dry out the dash gauge sensor and not much more...

Worst case, it goes pop and I upgrade to a 1.8 lol

Lanceam24

I saw some plastic type heater hose splice things in oreilly the other day. I think it's labeled "hose repair kit" or something like that. That may work?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Used the PCV valve you bought, and was still able to pop my dipstick. Bought these on ebay for like 7.99. They should fix the problem.

Pack of Two 2 3 8" Viton Kynar Standard Check Valves Barb to Barb | eBay

deezums

iTrader: (3)

You used to be able to get check valves like that at pet stores by the fishing stuff. They're meant to keep all your water from siphoning out of a fishtank if the power goes out on one of those little bubble making machines.

My dipstick stays firmly seated though, strange. Guess it is a cheap valve though.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Only happened to me twice in the past 2 weeks. I spent some time tuning and did like 50+ pulls and that got it to pop.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

My car keeps getting stuck in gears, I think my slave cylinder is going out. Seems worse if it's cold, like reversing out of the garage first thing in the morning. Trying to shift out of first at the first stop sign or two. Every once in a while the clutch starts grabbing extra quick. I'll flog the clutch a few times, and it seems to go away. My fear is a bunch of corrosion is making it mushy, My gsxr's front master did that and went spooky soft without leaking anything, fixed in a recall. Guess it's a good thing new slave cylinders are cheap.

Guess I'll try to bleed it first, if I can find a spare foot.

On the plus side, virtual dyno says I'm making 200 HP at 5600 and 190ft/lbs at 5500 on a measly 7/8 psi. Running way rich in boost over 5500 rpm, I need to do a lot more tuning in high rpms still.

With all this sand and briney spray **** all over the road the car is a handful, first is totally useless, second goes sideways around 3800, and third gets loose once every now and again. Sure is fun though, I can't wait for spring.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

What tire size are you running?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Just some cheap 205/50-15 nitto neo-gens

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Slave finally gave up completely. Had to use the starter to get rolling once or twice. No fun.

My master is still full, hasn't lost any fluid. Am I on the right track thinking it's a slave problem?

curly

iTrader: (25)

If you've already pushed the clutch a few times, the throw out bearing probably exploded.

Greasemonkey2000

iTrader: (3)

When I was having issues with mine, you would have to pump the clutch for it to work and did this for about a week before no longer working at all, there was no apparent fluid lost but I replaced the master, slave and curly line with a kit(including fluid) from Treasure Coast Miata for $85 and once replaced, all has been good since. (about 5k miles/7 months since replaced)

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

FAB9 has a good SS clutch line kit.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Pushed the clutch? I don't follow. My car restarts pretty cleanly, so it's more like I bumped it an inch or two then used the throttle to go from there. Shifting without a clutch once you are rolling isn't so bad. Besides killing my starter I don't see how I could explode my throwout?

My car has a stainless clutch line, I didn't install it but someone did. I'm starting to think it's just the master cylinder going out and not the slave. I've had no fluid loss, but symptoms like a hydraulic system with air in the line. I'm wondering if the master isn't just leaking all it's pressure back into the reservoir.

I was able to pump the clutch and drive around alright for about a week as well, but now the clutch won't disengage at all. No pedal feel at all, completely gone.

Gonna go get a new master tomorrow.

Greasemonkey2000

iTrader: (3)

Well my advice, for what its worth, is do both and have the peace of mind and don't have to worry about fixing something that turns out to not be the issue because both are too cheap not to do at once since you will have to replace the fluid and bleed anyways.