Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#4542
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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I don't trust cl for shipping.
I mean if you wanna pick it up and ship it to me with the new brake brackets
Would need to figure out the resistance curve.
I mean if you wanna pick it up and ship it to me with the new brake brackets
Would need to figure out the resistance curve.
#4545
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Big thanks to yank. Manifold is welded, ground, gusseted. And back on the car.
1/8" stainless plate as a gusset. Lots of welding and grinding to get rid of the crack. Even backpurged this time.
Tried to put a v-band on my downpipe, and there literally isn't any room. :(
Found out we just read the diagram backwards on the vr conditioner so now yank has a speedo too.
1/8" stainless plate as a gusset. Lots of welding and grinding to get rid of the crack. Even backpurged this time.
Tried to put a v-band on my downpipe, and there literally isn't any room. :(
Found out we just read the diagram backwards on the vr conditioner so now yank has a speedo too.
#4551
Huh, the one I used was all brass case.
It was a 1997 sc1 1.9, this the exact one I bought
Valucraft/Coolant Temperature Sensor SU1131VC at AutoZone.com - 1 reviews
A computer motherboard header uses the same pin spacing and fits down in there...
Also, I swapped to a 180deg thermostat (super easy with ls2 coils and spacerless reroute!) and my temp spiking issues in boost are gone. It runs 182 down the highway rather nice now. I might switch to a new 192 unit, might not even bother.
I also modified the stock coolant sensor to get rid of the flat spot. 200c is 12o clock and 220 is off the chart to the right. Parralax error probably happens, but it swings hard enough to not care. 180 is around 10:30-11, so the swing between running temp and the fans coming on is rather large too. I like it, all stock looking.
It was a 1997 sc1 1.9, this the exact one I bought
Valucraft/Coolant Temperature Sensor SU1131VC at AutoZone.com - 1 reviews
A computer motherboard header uses the same pin spacing and fits down in there...
Also, I swapped to a 180deg thermostat (super easy with ls2 coils and spacerless reroute!) and my temp spiking issues in boost are gone. It runs 182 down the highway rather nice now. I might switch to a new 192 unit, might not even bother.
I also modified the stock coolant sensor to get rid of the flat spot. 200c is 12o clock and 220 is off the chart to the right. Parralax error probably happens, but it swings hard enough to not care. 180 is around 10:30-11, so the swing between running temp and the fans coming on is rather large too. I like it, all stock looking.
#4552
IIRC you can get that connector kit still, because the version that used a plastic sensor used to keep working even after the plastic broke, for a little while, but then the coolant would flow all into the connector and **** and would corrode it all out. Maybe it is the earlier 90's ones that have the plastic ones, I know my 94 was plastic.
#4554
The connector kit is like $30 bucks, motherboard connectors are freee.
Is this plastic?
Seems like it might be a thing the aftermarket has taken care of, hopefully.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector Airtex Fits 91 02 Saturn SL1 1 9L L4 | eBay
Next time I go to a junkyard I plan on grabbing one.
Is this plastic?
Seems like it might be a thing the aftermarket has taken care of, hopefully.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector Airtex Fits 91 02 Saturn SL1 1 9L L4 | eBay
Next time I go to a junkyard I plan on grabbing one.
#4560
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I also modified the stock coolant sensor to get rid of the flat spot. 200c is 12o clock and 220 is off the chart to the right. Parralax error probably happens, but it swings hard enough to not care. 180 is around 10:30-11, so the swing between running temp and the fans coming on is rather large too. I like it, all stock looking.