<p>Because I don't want to pull the whole master off. I pulled the front line. And made sure no air was coming out. Thats the highest point. The pedal feels better right now. I'm about to go for a drive. And try and teach hailey how to drive this thing.</p>
<p>Also to be clear.</p><p>The wilwood discussion was not to remedy this problem. I am looking at it because my master was leaking at the last track day. So it it on its way out.</p>
Brakes are mo betta. Problem solved.
<br />Finally got Hailey to drive it. She did awesome. Pretty soon shell be doing burnouts too.
<p>Fukin alignment stuff.</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/CJUEEJi" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="http://i.imgur.com/CJUEEJil.jpg" /></a></p><p>Also whats up jack in the crack. American cheese on a taco? You dun fuked up.</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/kXhmQ9B" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="http://i.imgur.com/kXhmQ9Bl.jpg" /></a></p>
Community build thread...Aidan occasionally does the things
If you are running an adequate ride height and have good allowable travel then you don't need as much static camber because there is camber gain through the range of motion. And too much static camber will make your car brake and accelerate like **** because the contact patches are wedge shaped when you are traveling in a straight line. That's why the suspension is designed to give a relatively square contact patch in a straight line and then give more camber gain as the suspension compresses in a corner to keep it as square as possible there too. But it is always a compromise and a balancing act.
But it is always a compromise and a balancing act.
In terms of lap times, though, the decrease in braking & acceleration is relatively minor compared to the gains from cornering. It depends a lot on the tires, -3 up front is probably beyond the ideal range with street tires. Hoosiers, OTOH...