Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary) - Page 130 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-07-2015, 03:25 PM   #2581
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<p>I swap pads for every track day. I assume you mean every time the pads run out?
Fresh DOT4 Every Track Day!

I perfer the 2 or 3 person old school method for bleeding. However, for days/nights where I am solo I use my HF bleeder.
Brake Fluid Bleeder

I went to Home Depot Autosports and picked up 10' of clear line because my Willwoods and 1.8 brakes have different nipples. I also picked up joint .... no not that kind. This kind





Then I just use a razor blade and trim off the stretched part of the clear hose for each nipple so it maintains a tight seal. When I run out of clear hose, I just plop a new one on the adapter.

I used to run ATE Blue and Gold and swap back and forth between the two so I could use color as an indicator of when I have sucked through enough fluid. Since the govenment sucks, I can no longer use this method. So I usually just suck a whole bottle through, since I don't believe in storing open brake fluid. I would rather spend $20 and know it is fresh.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:09 PM   #2582
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Use the small bottles so they aren't open so long. Brake fluid absorbs moisture out of the air. Bleed them every 3 months if doing track days. I use two people and it takes ten minutes.

Don't let the system gravity drain or it will be full of wet air. Don't ever let the reservoir go dry and suck air. Just add fluid after every 8 or 10 pumps as you are bleeding. Pedal feel will be much better next time out if you are using old fluid currently.

And I use the auto parts store DOT3-4 fluid and just make sure it is fresh every track day. It is good if it is fresh. The lower temp stuff is fine if you aren't too lazy and keep it fresh. The fine print on the bottle will give you the wet and dry boiling points. Mine is 460F or something. The only trouble you will run into is with old, saturated fluid. 250whp on Hoosiers and no fluid boiling at track days down in hot, humid FLA.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:11 PM   #2583
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<p>Have you seen the ATE bottles? They have the sealing top and they are a metal bottle. I'll do some more googling.</p>
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:13 PM   #2584
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<p>Does ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid go Bad? - MX-5 Miata Forum</p><p>Looks like my year old bottle is trash (maybe i'll flush my truck brakes to get rid of it)</p><p>I wish they sold it in smaller bottles.</p>

<p>Will I notice a pedal feel difference with stainless lines?</p>

Last edited by curly; 08-07-2015 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:18 PM   #2585
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Less balloon 'mush' and more direct feel.

ATE Blue is amazballs.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:25 PM   #2586
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Type 200=super blue
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:29 PM   #2587
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Default Community build thread...Aidan occasionally does the things

Quote:
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Type 200=super blue
Everyone knows that the blue color gave ATE it's super power. Sure, if you want to use SCIENCE you can say they are the same.... But we all know, color played the most important roll.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:31 PM   #2588
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Guess I'll toss my other bottle and open the new one.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:41 PM   #2589
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Quote:
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Less balloon 'mush' and more direct feel.
^This. But you will probably get a lot toward that from just putting fresh fluid in it.

As for the pedals not lining up correctly, I had the problem that practicing heel toe on the street was useless because I pushed the brake much further on the track and nothing lined up. I adjusted the pedal rod for height and bent the throttle pedal rod so that it was closer to the brake pedal and got them where they were the correct height for heel toe. After they were right it was gravy on the track.
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:53 PM   #2590
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<p>I didn't think about adjusting the brake pedal. I'll pull it up and see how it works.</p>
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:50 PM   #2591
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<p>Wasn't sure on the threads of my fuel rail adapter. Then I found this picture.</p><p>Its for the TS-0402-1002. (Interestingly is marketed for Toyota/Subaru, not Mazda)</p><p>FPR Adapter Toyota/Subaru</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/0O9CcxB" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=146412&amp;dateline=14 39059794" /></a></p><p>Just tried it on my spare VVT rail and it fits great.</p>
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:20 PM   #2592
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<p>Also going to pull the master and booster from my 01 car and put them on mine to solve the leaky master problem!</p><p>From what I've read should be a relatively direct bolt on setup.</p>
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:53 PM   #2593
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<p>I'm about 11.25&quot; ride height all around. Which is wrong I think.</p><p>949 recommends 12&quot; front ride height and a .25&quot; rake. So fronts will be going up about .75 and rears up about an inch. This might help my terminal understeer, well see.</p>
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:14 PM   #2594
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Ouch
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Guess my smokey stop when I blew the chicane didn't play nice with my tires. According to my instructor I'm not braking hard enough initially, and then applying too much braking at the end of the braking zone, which doesn't help with lockup.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:28 PM   #2595
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That sucks, looks like they still had life left too.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:36 PM   #2596
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That sucks, looks like they still have life left.
<br />
<br />FTFY. New tires are not in the budget and I have at least 2 more track days. Its just going on the back.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:23 PM   #2597
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Those tires are hosed.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:24 PM   #2598
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<p>Is it just one tire?</p><p>I'll sell you my 225 RS3's for super duper freaking cheap...</p>
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:27 PM   #2599
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Can't see the cords. Looks fine to me.
<br />
<br />Ed, yes just one tire. I may take you up on that. Text me.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:10 AM   #2600
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This is why I swapped ABS into my car. Flatspotting race tires at autox is expensive.

Also, your tire looks wavy rather than round before/after the flat spot as well. Is that just the photo, or is there something else going on?

--Ian
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