Aidan's SCCA Stock Class Autocross Build (Road Course is Too Scary) - Page 369 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-15-2016, 06:49 PM   #7361
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IIRC the torque spec is pretty close to the factory one.

Yes, you are "supposed" to line bore with the main studs. OTOH, lots of people here on mt.net use ARP main studs without doing it and AFAIK nobody has reported problems. I've done it twice now, no issues.

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Old 08-15-2016, 06:51 PM   #7362
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Ok. I will pay the $50 to have the main line checked for roundness and alignment. And will decide from there.

Fuckit. I'm running ebay rods. Line boring is for pussies.

YOLO
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:54 PM   #7363
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Mods please delete the last 2-3 pages. k thx bai
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:09 PM   #7364
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more like delete this whole cesspool of a thread and have him start over, legit lol
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:09 PM   #7365
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Just edit the first post to include a link to the start of the other part of the build.

Glad to have you back Vlad, you have been missed.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:11 PM   #7366
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:26 PM   #7367
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Annnd scope is creeping. We're quickly approaching and passing the $5k budget.

Is the crank pulley needed for balancing? I'm really not sure about the balancing. I personally think its a waste of money.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:34 PM   #7368
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^have you ever driven a 4 cylinder with a fully balanced rotating assembly? It's actually pretty cool.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:42 PM   #7369
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I have not.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:44 PM   #7370
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Yes, it's cool, smooth would be a better description.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:46 PM   #7371
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Don't really care about cool. As of know I'll plan to skip it. This is still supposed to be a budget build.

Knock that and the damper off for now.

Damper can be added later when I turn up the boost on track.

Brings the budget back down to where I wanted to be.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:51 PM   #7372
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I mean, if that's the 250 on your spreadsheet for balancing... just do it. Or dont,
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:57 PM   #7373
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Balancing is $225. But I believe you should also have your crank pulley when its balanced. Which I probably wont have when the engine is built
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:00 PM   #7374
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Shouldn't the damper be neutral balanced?



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Old 08-15-2016, 10:07 PM   #7375
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:42 PM   #7376
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I'd do the balancing, I did it on my current motor, one of the best things I did while it was apart. I'll never skip balancing a I4 again. Installing not-stock rods and pistons will mess up the balance so it's going to vibrate if you don't do it. Granted I did that many times and it worked, but it is wayyyy smoother now that it's balanced. That means less loading on the bottom end as well, which would be good for a motor you plan to track. I'd skip powder coating and do balancing.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:45 PM   #7377
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Lol I totally forgot I had powdercoating on there. I can do that later for sure.

Ok, this is looking good. Leaves me a couple hundred to dyno, and the usual couple hundred in bits and pieces.
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Old 08-16-2016, 12:06 AM   #7378
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Water pump?

--Ian
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Old 08-16-2016, 12:07 AM   #7379
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The gates timing belt water pump combo
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Old 08-16-2016, 12:25 PM   #7380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
I'd do the balancing, I did it on my current motor, one of the best things I did while it was apart. I'll never skip balancing a I4 again. Installing not-stock rods and pistons will mess up the balance so it's going to vibrate if you don't do it. Granted I did that many times and it worked, but it is wayyyy smoother now that it's balanced. That means less loading on the bottom end as well, which would be good for a motor you plan to track. I'd skip powder coating and do balancing.
Doooo it

Best part of balancing is no more hardware backing out/loosening constantly, and less potential for cracks on the manifold. But, I assume you might have already paid $100 for 4 exhaust studs per everyone's doing. Maybe not as beneficial to you.
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