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Old 06-20-2015, 05:00 PM   #1621
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<p>The last thing I want to do is pull the diff again. I'll wait until I rebuild the axles, and get lower delrin bushings.</p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:05 PM   #1622
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When using seal stuff like that, you coat it on, and mate the parts, but only enough to touch. Don't torque them down. Give the seal stuff (Permatex Black sounds like a good choice) time to cure a bit, and then torque it down. Otherwise, you squeeze most of it out and it has nothing between the surfaces.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:07 PM   #1623
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<p>Yeah, thats what the instructions say, and exactly what I didn't do. I'll re-do it at some point. There is no puddle and the car has been parked for 2 days so I'm not that worried. I'll keep a bottle of diff fluid handy.</p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:09 PM   #1624
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<p>Also, just hit 7k on the turbo. By the end of the summer I should have over 10k. I have some daily commuting, a bunch of track days, and at least 1 maybe 2 trips to thunderhill (1000mi round trip)</p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:21 PM   #1625
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If it's not leaking so much as weeping, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:24 PM   #1626
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<p>Yeah, I'm not going to pull the diff because of it. But next time its out I'll fix it.</p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:27 PM   #1627
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It could just be vapor coming from the vent. I over filled mine and it spat some oil out until I drained the excess
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:28 PM   #1628
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<p>Would explain why it only happens when hot. I'll look over the top and check.</p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:43 PM   #1629
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How to remove exhaust soot stains without a steam cleaner.(sorry didn't see your post earlier)

These two options are under the assumption the paint is clean otherwise GG paint.

Slightly more expensive than free method
1) Clay Bar. Wax after to fill the paint's pores.

Cheap as **** and don't care about scratches
2) 100% undiluted Purple Power Degreaser, don't let it dry and use a microfiber towel to lightly scrub the soot build up off. Make sure you use wax on paint after done to add some moisture to the paint.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:44 PM   #1630
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<p>Clay bar didn't work, but I might try again.</p><p>I will go buy some of that.</p><p>....also, what's wax? </p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:48 PM   #1631
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If a clay bar or purple power doesn't work the paint has been charred. I can clean off 90% of the soot on my bumper but there is areas that are "cooked".

Also in the "**** you paint" category that works stupendously good, is Magic Erasers.

It puts the wax on the paint or it doesn't get the parts again!
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:53 PM   #1632
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Ive got some candles around. Just melt some of that on?
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:30 PM   #1633
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Wet sanding will do it too. Like, super super fine grit.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:41 PM   #1634
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<p>i use pure engine degreaser on my car lol. its a dam track car, no ***** given. shitty paint becomes notably more porous after using it though.</p>
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:58 PM   #1635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
<p>Its 2 days. 7 sessions per day. So maybe bring a 5 gallon can. And get 5 gallons from the gas station in willows. then 5 of the 100 octane?</p>
They sell 91 at Thunderhill too, although it's usually ~ 30-50% more expensive than it would be in town. I usually buy it there anyway, because IMHO it's not worth spending 30-40 minutes driving into town and back just to save $10. I hate messing with gas cans, because I always spill fuel when trying to fill a car with them.

As for the nozzles, I've never had a problem putting either the 100 or 91 octane nozzles at Thunderhill into the filler neck in my NB. It did overflow once, but that was before Mazda did the recall for filler neck burping problems, so that's probably why. They had a fairly primitive gravity-flow, non-vapor-recovery filler system at that point.

They also sell 110-ish leaded race gas, perhaps that's the one that won't fit in your NA? Back when they first switched from leaded to unleaded and you could buy both at normal gas stations, the leaded pump nozzles were larger than the unleaded car filler necks.

What group are you going to Thunderhill with?

--Ian
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:27 PM   #1636
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Trackmasters on July 18th-19th
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Old 06-21-2015, 04:19 AM   #1637
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<p>Dug into the auction car. Cut off the front core support unplugged what I could see. Decided I wanted to try and drop the subframe and motor together.</p><p>Here is where I got to. Subframe is dropped, motor is still in the car.....am I missing something? I hope I just forgot to unhook something because it wiggles around but it wont drop any further than this. Also, some pics of the motor. Timing covers and oil pump is toast, but so far the block looks good.</p><p><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:13 AM   #1638
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Once the subframe is dropped, the PPF needs to come out, and then it'll drop away. But it should do that with the diff gone. There's 1 fuel line, a few ground straps, and the engine harness has 2 plugs to disconnect it. Then it's just throttle cable and heater hose. You're most likely hung up on some mangled piece of metal.
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:31 PM   #1639
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<p>Where are the ground straps? I only remember 1 on my engine. And how many plugs on the starter/trans?</p>
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:52 PM   #1640
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On an NA, there's a ground strap near the brake reservoir and then another near the diff on the PPF. They're not strong though. If you tension against them, they usually pull apart easily.

It really sounds like you're hung-up on some metal like curly said. Crow bar and or sawzall should cure it.
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