Cordycord's epic tube frame build
#201
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More, please. Just for background, even with no shrouding there were no issues with overheating during the test. We're planning to shroud from the bodywork to the radiator and then route the exit. We've got more elaborate plans for the track-only car.
Wet weight is around 1,400lbs, give or take. There's over 100lbs of "fat" on the mule (stock seats, HEAVY exhaust, extra tubing, etc.), but that will be replaced with bodywork, lights, interior, aluminum panels, and extra odds n' ends. Pig.
There will be the same rain dance with race prep. Add some, take off some. Bottom line is that this is proving to be an awesome base for a performance car. The frame is light but rock solid. The bottom is flat. Best of all, you can transfer your go-fast goodies to this frame. I can't imagine it with more than 250hp...
Wet weight is around 1,400lbs, give or take. There's over 100lbs of "fat" on the mule (stock seats, HEAVY exhaust, extra tubing, etc.), but that will be replaced with bodywork, lights, interior, aluminum panels, and extra odds n' ends. Pig.
There will be the same rain dance with race prep. Add some, take off some. Bottom line is that this is proving to be an awesome base for a performance car. The frame is light but rock solid. The bottom is flat. Best of all, you can transfer your go-fast goodies to this frame. I can't imagine it with more than 250hp...
#203
But for track driving the rear cylinders will overheat quickly especially in boosted application. Thats why its so common to do a rear coolant reroute.
Here is stock. Cold=top pic and Fully warmed up = bottom one
This is with the reroute. Fully warmed up.
Last edited by triple88a; 06-02-2012 at 03:52 PM.
#204
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You wont see overheating in the gauge. This motor was pulled from a FWD car so mazda decided to make it easy and reroute the coolant to the front of the motor for our miatas instead of at the back by the thermostat. The engine is fed cold coolant by the water pump from the front of the motor and then the heated up coolant goes out of the front of the motor instead of through the entire engine. The only circulation the rear of the engine sees is whatever can get through the heater lines. For stock street driving for the average chick this is just fine.. since ya know miatas are chick cars?
But for track driving the rear cylinders will overheat quickly especially in boosted application. Thats why its so common to do a rear coolant reroute.
Here is stock. Cold=top pic and Fully warmed up = bottom one
This is with the reroute. Fully warmed up.
But for track driving the rear cylinders will overheat quickly especially in boosted application. Thats why its so common to do a rear coolant reroute.
Here is stock. Cold=top pic and Fully warmed up = bottom one
This is with the reroute. Fully warmed up.
#205
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No... the issue is that the rear of the engine gets shitty coolant flow because the inlet and outlet are very close to eachother. moving the outlet to the rear of the head solves this.
Do it.
Do it.
#206
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engine configurations
Mule #1 has a 1.6 and Mule #2 has a 1999 1.8. Both will get the coolant upgrades. Mule #3 is getting a turbo and will definitely get the upgrade. #4 might just have a mystery motor that won't need this upgrade.
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FWIW My coolant gauge will show the famous just less than half pretty much all the time.
Tuner studio on the other hand tells me the true story. My coolant gauge won't even start moving till about 240F. The computer does a much better job of telling me what exactly my coolant is at.
<-- Having overheating problems.
Tuner studio on the other hand tells me the true story. My coolant gauge won't even start moving till about 240F. The computer does a much better job of telling me what exactly my coolant is at.
<-- Having overheating problems.
#213
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And yet again I'm showing pictures that I probably shouldn't upload. I really, REALLY should have held off showing this car until it was absolutely finished, but what the hell--that ship has sailed.
The two main body panels left missing are also the largest. And most important. Even so, I thought it would be fun to put the existing panels on car. My first thought was that this small cage of a car is getting bigger! It's a go cart with just the frame, but is taking on car proportions with the bodywork.
Also, it looks like there will be ample wind protection even with the small windscreens. While this car will no doubt see lots of track time, it looks like I won't need to wear a helmet on the way to Starbucks.
pic 1--One the floor--first article body panels
pic 2--A whole car fits in my Land Rover
pic 3--The view from the seat shows that there's plenty of protection
pic 4--Pieces in place, though not perfectly placed.
#219
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I'm trying to balance the cost of the kit with the contents. Do customers want to supply their own suspension? Wheels and tires? Are they expecting the full-blown interior, or raw race? And of course the frame and body are completely from scratch--and costs that I'll be amortizing for some time.
I don't want the end result to be expensive, but neither will I allow it to be anything but a quality vehicle. Based on weight alone, it will be faster than any Spec Miata--700lbs lost is like gaining 100 horsepower, not to mention the dynamic and braking performance gains that will be seen.
So how much would you pay for an exotic, exclusive, low volume, high performance car that's been designed and built in America?