Crazyblackman's Brutus
#142
So I guess I didn't update this, I got the new cam gears from Bogaut.
Absolutely love them!!!
Trying to sell stuff currently as well. Deciding if I'm keeping ac or not. I have ac in the speed so I don't really need it currently. So debating debating.
Still waiting currently to get some spare cash to send the block off if not this next paycheck then the following one.
Still need to buy additional stuff for the head work as well thanks again Evan for help with that stuff.
Absolutely love them!!!
Trying to sell stuff currently as well. Deciding if I'm keeping ac or not. I have ac in the speed so I don't really need it currently. So debating debating.
Still waiting currently to get some spare cash to send the block off if not this next paycheck then the following one.
Still need to buy additional stuff for the head work as well thanks again Evan for help with that stuff.
#143
So I went out in the garage and got the diff dropped out. The cv axels came out of course with a fight, so I had a buddy and use his snap on tools impact since my little black and decker haha well my little black and decker I think sums that statement up.
Needless to say we got those off and out. Excuse the potatoe shot. Once we got it out I just let it sit for now, need to get the new bushings in the other diff first then I can put it in there.
I am wondering where the all the new bushings go, so will do a little research on that not for the diff bushings but the other bushing I assume for the other part of the diff mounting bushing.
Once we finished the diff we moved into the arp lug studs. Got them all out with a big *** soft hammer. Once out we began putting the new ones in, but 2 things the snap on impact battery died 1.
2. The back ones have part of the hub in the way so we are unable to put them back in without bending them. So now I am trying to find out how to get that done without removing the hub. I saw online some people had issues and some didn't. May just need to bend/grins down the heat shield to make room.
If anyone knows please chime in.
Other than that, I still need to get stuff and drop stuff, I'm just taking my time. I have a car payment now so just adjusting to that more than anything.
Either way will have some progress here soon hopefully.
Needless to say we got those off and out. Excuse the potatoe shot. Once we got it out I just let it sit for now, need to get the new bushings in the other diff first then I can put it in there.
I am wondering where the all the new bushings go, so will do a little research on that not for the diff bushings but the other bushing I assume for the other part of the diff mounting bushing.
Once we finished the diff we moved into the arp lug studs. Got them all out with a big *** soft hammer. Once out we began putting the new ones in, but 2 things the snap on impact battery died 1.
2. The back ones have part of the hub in the way so we are unable to put them back in without bending them. So now I am trying to find out how to get that done without removing the hub. I saw online some people had issues and some didn't. May just need to bend/grins down the heat shield to make room.
If anyone knows please chime in.
Other than that, I still need to get stuff and drop stuff, I'm just taking my time. I have a car payment now so just adjusting to that more than anything.
Either way will have some progress here soon hopefully.
#144
From the photo it looks like you got them into the holes, so you're asking how to seat the studs? Are you trying to hammer them in, or pull them in with a nut? I don't think there's clearance to hammer them, even if you cut the dust shield all the way off.
Savington says not to pull them in with nut because it can strip the splines if you're not careful, but I've done it a number of times without issues. You'll want a conical washer for the lug nut to engage with or a flat nut with the same threads. Stack up some washers so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud's threads, lube everything up well, get the splines aligned, and then pull it in with a ratchet. I wouldn't use an impact to do this. With proper lubrication it takes way less torque to pull the studs in than you use for wheel nuts.
--Ian
Savington says not to pull them in with nut because it can strip the splines if you're not careful, but I've done it a number of times without issues. You'll want a conical washer for the lug nut to engage with or a flat nut with the same threads. Stack up some washers so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud's threads, lube everything up well, get the splines aligned, and then pull it in with a ratchet. I wouldn't use an impact to do this. With proper lubrication it takes way less torque to pull the studs in than you use for wheel nuts.
--Ian
#148
Thanks
From the photo it looks like you got them into the holes, so you're asking how to seat the studs? Are you trying to hammer them in, or pull them in with a nut? I don't think there's clearance to hammer them, even if you cut the dust shield all the way off.
Savington says not to pull them in with nut because it can strip the splines if you're not careful, but I've done it a number of times without issues. You'll want a conical washer for the lug nut to engage with or a flat nut with the same threads. Stack up some washers so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud's threads, lube everything up well, get the splines aligned, and then pull it in with a ratchet. I wouldn't use an impact to do this. With proper lubrication it takes way less torque to pull the studs in than you use for wheel nuts.
--Ian
Savington says not to pull them in with nut because it can strip the splines if you're not careful, but I've done it a number of times without issues. You'll want a conical washer for the lug nut to engage with or a flat nut with the same threads. Stack up some washers so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud's threads, lube everything up well, get the splines aligned, and then pull it in with a ratchet. I wouldn't use an impact to do this. With proper lubrication it takes way less torque to pull the studs in than you use for wheel nuts.
--Ian
Sounds like I just need to grind down the dust shield or cut it off entirely and do it that way. It is just enough in the way to be annoying.
Either way lube will be applied, appreciate the help fellas.
#154
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
I would replace them while you have everything out. Its not that expensive.
Failure could range from a squeaky noise to a wheel falling off*. I know you are planning on 300hp. I would want to know that my hubs arent going to grenade, what if one freezes, blows a diff, **** happens.
*Very rare, would have to be an incredible chain of failures
Failure could range from a squeaky noise to a wheel falling off*. I know you are planning on 300hp. I would want to know that my hubs arent going to grenade, what if one freezes, blows a diff, **** happens.
*Very rare, would have to be an incredible chain of failures
#155
I would replace them while you have everything out. Its not that expensive.
Failure could range from a squeaky noise to a wheel falling off*. I know you are planning on 300hp. I would want to know that my hubs arent going to grenade, what if one freezes, blows a diff, **** happens.
*Very rare, would have to be an incredible chain of failures
Failure could range from a squeaky noise to a wheel falling off*. I know you are planning on 300hp. I would want to know that my hubs arent going to grenade, what if one freezes, blows a diff, **** happens.
*Very rare, would have to be an incredible chain of failures
Appreciate the help with explanation.
Now need to look up the info on the Diff stuff/COP stuff
#160
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 18,642
Total Cats: 1,866
Advanced auto has them for like $80 a piece. Less with coupons.
If you are shooting for 300hp you may run into coild issues with Fab9 coils. Or Ive heard of some. Nothing concrete though.
If you are shooting for 300hp you may run into coild issues with Fab9 coils. Or Ive heard of some. Nothing concrete though.