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Old 05-19-2016, 02:22 PM   #201
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The next day I went out there to finish up what I started. Took longer than I wanted but I got it done. First time doing axels so I would say next time will go a billion times faster, just like pulling the motor did.

Got the axels through just need to torque that nut down. Apparently these are a different size then the originals so I need another socket.



I adjusted the height as well to not monster truck. I'm no where near slammed and it sits a littler better all around.



For the rears


Just need some spacers and that will fill it for the time being. Really wanting 245's on there but I don't see it happening for these wheels anytime soon.
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Old 07-02-2016, 12:27 PM   #202
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Motor is built. Picking it up one of these days!!!!

1.6L Motor
Wise Forged Pistons 78.5mm/8.5:1
Manley Forged H Beam Rods
ACL Race Bearing set- Standard
Boundary Billet Oil Pump- Street/Strip setup(doesn't fit yet, need to see why)
OEM Intake/Exhaust Valves
Supertech Complete Valve Spring Kit
New Valve Seal Set
Cometic MLS head gasket .040(still need)
ARP Head Studs

Unknown turbo I will be running as of now. Still have the barely used Godspeed GT82 I could use temporarily for now.

Anyone break in a motor recently? I've looked up some stuff regarding it but was curious if someone just has one they regularly use. Oil, rev limits, boost good or bad idea, etc?
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Old 07-02-2016, 12:43 PM   #203
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Everyone has an opinion on break in. I think everyone agrees no synthic for break in unless it's formulated for it.
I like to go wide open throttle to about 4500 a few times with and let it decel back down to 1700 or so and repeat a few times. Then 5500 a few times. 6500 a few times. You want high cylinder pressure. Change the oil after initial break in runs.
i'm a little superstitious so I don't pull to redline until after 500 miles. I also change the oil again at 500 and once more at 1k for good measure. That's just me though.
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:01 PM   #204
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I have used this method multiple times on motorcycles with good results.... never had the opportunity to try it with a car.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:03 PM   #205
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FM has a procedure which is just about the same thing I heard from my dad back when I was a snot-nosed kid.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:21 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williams805 View Post
Everyone has an opinion on break in. I think everyone agrees no synthic for break in unless it's formulated for it.
I like to go wide open throttle to about 4500 a few times with and let it decel back down to 1700 or so and repeat a few times. Then 5500 a few times. 6500 a few times. You want high cylinder pressure. Change the oil after initial break in runs.
i'm a little superstitious so I don't pull to redline until after 500 miles. I also change the oil again at 500 and once more at 1k for good measure. That's just me though.
Awesome, I will definitely take it into consideration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roda View Post
I have used this method multiple times on motorcycles with good results.... never had the opportunity to try it with a car.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I will read into it, thanks!
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Originally Posted by rleete View Post
FM has a procedure which is just about the same thing I heard from my dad back when I was a snot-nosed kid.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php
Nice, I am taking all kinds of stuff like this into consideration thanks!
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:57 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleete View Post
FM has a procedure which is just about the same thing I heard from my dad back when I was a snot-nosed kid.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php
Looks like FM's method is very similar to the 'Motoman' method I posted, and williams805's. The idea is to load the rings through several heat cycles, and change the oil early, as that's when most of the metal particulates are going to show up.

On a bike, I don't go to synthetic 'till 5k, but that's with a wet clutch.
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Old 07-02-2016, 05:42 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roda View Post
Looks like FM's method is very similar to the 'Motoman' method I posted, and williams805's. The idea is to load the rings through several heat cycles, and change the oil early, as that's when most of the metal particulates are going to show up.

On a bike, I don't go to synthetic 'till 5k, but that's with a wet clutch.
Yeah they all sounded similar so far.

I haven't finished reading it yet (at work) but does it go over boost or not? I'm assuming it would aid in the sealing because of the extra pressure, or am I over thinking it?
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Old 07-02-2016, 06:26 PM   #209
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Use amsoil brake in oil, change oil at 50 miles, and 250 miles. use the amsoil filters

At 1000 miles use amsoil dominator. and amsoil filters.

Insert "Joe Gibbs Racing oil" instead of amsoil if you wish.

I think there is one other oil company that makes quality oils, but I can't remember what it's called at the moment.
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Old 07-02-2016, 06:49 PM   #210
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Originally Posted by thumpetto007 View Post
Use amsoil brake in oil, change oil at 50 miles, and 250 miles. use the amsoil filters

At 1000 miles use amsoil dominator. and amsoil filters.

Insert "Joe Gibbs Racing oil" instead of amsoil if you wish.

I think there is one other oil company that makes quality oils, but I can't remember what it's called at the moment.
Yeah I was planning on using their break in oil and to change it in 20-50 miles looks best. I'll probably freak myself a few times before start up but i'll take it slow.

Appreciate it!
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Old 07-08-2016, 01:30 PM   #211
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So I got my motor finally!!!
Crazyblackman's Brutus-79c9225dd64333161abd594abc87d332.jpg

I need to get oil pump blind plug I guess for the oil pump and put that in there. The engine builder said the oil pump wouldn't fit. I thought the 1.6 short nose was supported but I guess not. I'll find out for myself once I get it on the engine stand.

I don't think they make high flow oil pumps for a short nose 1.6l from looking around. So I may try and send it back or may have to sell it sadly if that's the case.

Depending on what happens with that will determine the time it takes to get it back up and running.

Need the head gasket, and a few seals here and there but then back together it goes. I can probably start putting the transmission and get the motor back in the car at least then worry about the rest as it comes.
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Old 07-29-2016, 01:30 AM   #212
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Got the hvac stuff back up and running finally on a day I just wasn't doing anything. I honestly thought I wouldn't be able to put it back together again but I took photos and figured it out.

Grabbed it all and just put it in a pile.


I pretty much just did the reverse of the pictures. Could have taken better photos the first pass which would have made it easier but oh well.

Got the lovely yoga mat back out and cut it up and scrapped the remaining 25 year old funk off the old flaps. Then got the yoga mat pieces attached. Definitely not the first to do it but loved it when Jeffis did it.



Then I realized i don't think I aloud the spray to set in too much.


Sprayed a bit more and clamped down and let it sit in the garage for a while. Solid now.



Then I put it back together again, I hope to never do that again cause putting it back together was a pain in the *** I'm just glad I have big hands to hold all the pieces from moving.

Put it together wrong and had to take it apart, again


Then got it right and put some weatherstripping on it so it seals up. I think I may get wider stripping to fill it more but we'll see.


Refreshed vs old


So once this is in in goes the dash and then I need the head gasket, a cam seal, probably new timing belt, etc just miscellaneous stuff now.(hopefully)
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:13 PM   #213
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So it's been a while since I've updated anything. With this wedding coming up, the DJ, booze, food tasting, photographer, etc everything gets crazy expensive so Brutus has been on the back burner for a while.

I kind of go out in the garage and look at him from time to time and think what have I started, have I bitten off more than I can chew, I hope this isn't a huge fail.

First motor build,
First huge investment into such a crucial component
Huge gap since I've put it back together
So many changes all at once

If I could do it over, I would have just left it with the turbo on without the build just to drive it. Probably would have enjoyed it with a proper tune and such. Then I remember this is what I signed up for! No one forced me to do it, so I have to make it work!!!

Anywhoo, since the last post a lot has gone on. Never put pictures of the head in here yet.




I had a bachelor party! 'Twas epic time in vegas! Would love to do it again for sure.



Had a huge *** house! Like 7 bedroom house with 2 masters and an adult play room with pool, ping pong, etc

Came back to Az, fast forward a month or so later helped my son the be father in law his first Miata. NC PRHT


He enjoys it, just need to tighten the latch for the HT, in typical Miata fashion it rattles.

Then I've been working a ton of over time for the past month so I got myself a good job present for Shelby the speed3
A spoiler extension




Probably going to get some different pieces to hold it on I just think it could look better.

Anyways, fast forward to recent, I started assembling the motor after I got my headgasket and remaining important gaskets for now.





Ignore the paint on the motor, I had to redo a couple of places apparently.

Then this is where we are now.

The bottom end is done!
New oil pump
Gaskets all around
Lightly used water pump 4K miles
Same timing belt(not gates yet), 4K miles
New pistons
New rods
New bearings

Will probably leave the normal valve cover on there with stock plugs before cops just to get running and broken in NA instead of Turbo to minimize issues.

Just need some caps for An fittings and we'll be good for that stuff. Got some other stuff hopefully in the works soon, so we will see what happens with all that, but a much needed update!
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:56 PM   #214
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yay!
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:19 PM   #215
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Got some pieces in the other day, I am planning on putting the motor in the car here soon I swear.

-16 AN fittings for the radiator, I have always wanted to do this so I can get rid of all that rubber. Unnecessarily Necessary



Need to get it all welded up. Need to get a couple more things welded for my water feed too.

I do need the plugs for the head too.



If anyone knows the size let me know. Called Mazda and said it was just a hex plug but I guess it didn't show size.

I can put the tranny back on and drop it back in there. Just need to center the rack before I can get there.

Then I can put everything back in with some fluids and start it up. Oh and Paul's stock header!
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:34 PM   #216
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Got some little plugs that stop me from putting the timing on before. I found 7 ports that needed plugs in the head. Hopefully I didn't miss any.


And some random action shots we've all seen before...

I am glad though I don't need to replace the clutch, I didn't make enough power to harm it in my mind anyways


Switches are still working and not destroyed either.

Almost ready to go in!
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