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Old 11-04-2015, 09:08 AM   #141
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Originally Posted by jimmyneutron View Post
Those bearings look pretty good from the photos, looks like a decent engine to rebuild.
My thoughts as well, just taking my time doing all this for the first time so just making sure I rebuild it right.
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:50 PM   #142
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So I guess I didn't update this, I got the new cam gears from Bogaut.

Absolutely love them!!!


Trying to sell stuff currently as well. Deciding if I'm keeping ac or not. I have ac in the speed so I don't really need it currently. So debating debating.

Still waiting currently to get some spare cash to send the block off if not this next paycheck then the following one.

Still need to buy additional stuff for the head work as well thanks again Evan for help with that stuff.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:16 AM   #143
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So I went out in the garage and got the diff dropped out. The cv axels came out of course with a fight, so I had a buddy and use his snap on tools impact since my little black and decker haha well my little black and decker I think sums that statement up.

Needless to say we got those off and out. Excuse the potatoe shot. Once we got it out I just let it sit for now, need to get the new bushings in the other diff first then I can put it in there.

I am wondering where the all the new bushings go, so will do a little research on that not for the diff bushings but the other bushing I assume for the other part of the diff mounting bushing.


Once we finished the diff we moved into the arp lug studs. Got them all out with a big *** soft hammer. Once out we began putting the new ones in, but 2 things the snap on impact battery died 1.

2. The back ones have part of the hub in the way so we are unable to put them back in without bending them. So now I am trying to find out how to get that done without removing the hub. I saw online some people had issues and some didn't. May just need to bend/grins down the heat shield to make room.

If anyone knows please chime in.



Other than that, I still need to get stuff and drop stuff, I'm just taking my time. I have a car payment now so just adjusting to that more than anything.

Either way will have some progress here soon hopefully.
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:04 PM   #144
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From the photo it looks like you got them into the holes, so you're asking how to seat the studs? Are you trying to hammer them in, or pull them in with a nut? I don't think there's clearance to hammer them, even if you cut the dust shield all the way off.

Savington says not to pull them in with nut because it can strip the splines if you're not careful, but I've done it a number of times without issues. You'll want a conical washer for the lug nut to engage with or a flat nut with the same threads. Stack up some washers so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud's threads, lube everything up well, get the splines aligned, and then pull it in with a ratchet. I wouldn't use an impact to do this. With proper lubrication it takes way less torque to pull the studs in than you use for wheel nuts.

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Old 11-23-2015, 01:09 PM   #145
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proper lubrication
Key to life
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:01 PM   #146
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I put in my ARP studs when I replaced my rear hubs... I pulled the uprights and had a local shop press the hubs out and install the new ones with the studs already in. I used a HF bench top press to press the studs in.
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Old 11-23-2015, 03:10 PM   #147
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I put in my ARP studs when I replaced my rear hubs... I pulled the uprights and had a local shop press the hubs out and install the new ones with the studs already in. I used a HF bench top press to press the studs in.
Yeah, a press is the right solution, but it's a major PITA to pull the hub off if you're just doing one stud because you damaged the threads.

--Ian
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:33 PM   #148
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Yeah, a press is the right solution, but it's a major PITA to pull the hub off if you're just doing one stud because you damaged the threads.

--Ian
Yeah I would love a press, but I don't have one sadly, just an impact which we got 1 in then the battery died. I am doing all 4.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Roda View Post
I put in my ARP studs when I replaced my rear hubs... I pulled the uprights and had a local shop press the hubs out and install the new ones with the studs already in. I used a HF bench top press to press the studs in.
That is what I'm trying to avoid, I just wanna leave them on the car and pull em through if possible, but I will keep that in mind if I need to

Thanks

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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
From the photo it looks like you got them into the holes, so you're asking how to seat the studs? Are you trying to hammer them in, or pull them in with a nut? I don't think there's clearance to hammer them, even if you cut the dust shield all the way off.

Savington says not to pull them in with nut because it can strip the splines if you're not careful, but I've done it a number of times without issues. You'll want a conical washer for the lug nut to engage with or a flat nut with the same threads. Stack up some washers so that the nut doesn't bottom out on the stud's threads, lube everything up well, get the splines aligned, and then pull it in with a ratchet. I wouldn't use an impact to do this. With proper lubrication it takes way less torque to pull the studs in than you use for wheel nuts.

--Ian
Well I fudged up and showed the front when the backs are the real issue. Front's I can do, but wanted to get the backs up first since those seems to be the pain. Just more so to figure out how to get it in straight. I would prefer to leave the hubs on if at all possible. Obviously if I need to pull them off I will do so, but if I can avoid it I will. I have pulled them through with other cars with the bolt and impact method, that is what I am trying to do here.

Sounds like I just need to grind down the dust shield or cut it off entirely and do it that way. It is just enough in the way to be annoying.

Either way lube will be applied, appreciate the help fellas.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:43 PM   #149
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Sounds like I just need to grind down the dust shield or cut it off entirely and do it that way. It is just enough in the way to be annoying.
Tinsnips. You can probably just trim a small section to make enough clearance to put in the studs, but I cut it off entirely because the sport-sized rears didn't fit my 99 dust shields.

--Ian
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:45 PM   #150
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If they are original hubs you should replace them anyways.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:11 PM   #151
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If they are original hubs you should replace them anyways.
Any reason specific reason for this?

Quote:
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Tinsnips. You can probably just trim a small section to make enough clearance to put in the studs, but I cut it off entirely because the sport-sized rears didn't fit my 99 dust shields.

--Ian
I hear ya, may get some and just knock it out in a couple days overall. Fixing this house up with all the little ***** going on, but good thing I love learning.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:15 PM   #152
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Because they're 20 years old? I don't mean replace the hubs, I mean the bearing. Which requires removing the hub.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:36 PM   #153
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Because they're 20 years old? I don't mean replace the hubs, I mean the bearing. Which requires removing the hub.
hahahah that makes sense....sorry at work and have been out of it all day.

May just replace the hubs or wait till they grenade themselves. SO when they grenade themselves what damage am I looking at?

Blow tire? Loud metal on metal? Does it sound like any old bearing gone bad?
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:37 PM   #154
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I would replace them while you have everything out. Its not that expensive.

Failure could range from a squeaky noise to a wheel falling off*. I know you are planning on 300hp. I would want to know that my hubs arent going to grenade, what if one freezes, blows a diff, **** happens.

*Very rare, would have to be an incredible chain of failures
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:54 PM   #155
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I would replace them while you have everything out. Its not that expensive.

Failure could range from a squeaky noise to a wheel falling off*. I know you are planning on 300hp. I would want to know that my hubs arent going to grenade, what if one freezes, blows a diff, **** happens.

*Very rare, would have to be an incredible chain of failures
I hear yeah, yeah I wanted to do so anyways, but ill be taking my time with this one. Now that I have the daily I can rebuild this car how I want it too be.

Appreciate the help with explanation.

Now need to look up the info on the Diff stuff/COP stuff
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:57 PM   #156
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Are you still on stock 1.6 diff?

Run GM coils. Any cop isn't going to be any more powerful than stock.
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:58 PM   #157
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Wheels falling off aren't that rare -- happened to Keith at Laguna.

--Ian
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:59 PM   #158
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even more reason.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:20 PM   #159
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Are you still on stock 1.6 diff?

Run GM coils. Any cop isn't going to be any more powerful than stock.
I have a 3.9 Torsen waiting to go in, still need cv axels

I have the Fab9 Cops figured those should suffice I would think.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:21 PM   #160
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Advanced auto has them for like $80 a piece. Less with coupons.

If you are shooting for 300hp you may run into coild issues with Fab9 coils. Or Ive heard of some. Nothing concrete though.
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