Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Look at the knock voltage column- there is 3v of knock @ 7000RPM. Redline is 8000 so the revlimiter was not touched.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I just realized your car should be running 100% eth/meth because currently it is consuming the dead remains of animals and you are a vegetarian.

JayL

iTrader: (12)

Looks like 7000 is where you let off the throttle. Do a log with a full pull all the way to 8000 in 5th gear.

scottyd

Don't rev to 8k. Arg.

pusha

iTrader: (5)

Wait, you are a vegan?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Here's my timing map.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Here is my VVT map.








We did a pull with VVT off and yes, the midrange did take a ****. I don't have a chart for that. I can do one at the dyno day.

Aricjm15

Every time I look at someones timing map it reminds me of how much mine sucks huge boners. I really need to fix that ****.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I lifted because I saw sustained det on my knocklite (lit red, stayed red).

I'm not quite ready for a pull like that yet. For me, 5th gear at 8000RPM=156mph. I do not have an undertray on right now and I need one or my hood will fly off.

I'll try to do a longer pull with that map and log it but I think the reason the tune is off now is due to the humidity during the tuning session.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

??? Dinosaurs didn't exist. God created the earth 6000 years ago and loaded it up with oil just for you and me. Therefore, oil is vegan.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

So I went for a drive today and did some logging and analysis. In short, things were ok. I also talked with my tuner some about what's going on.

Here's the deal with my tune so pay attention:

1. Yes, humidity does have an impact on a tune. I was tuned at 100% humidity and 70* amb temp. When I was seeing knock through the RPM range, not only was it 45*, but it was also dry. Dry cold air = more power and also knock.

2. Today my hydra wideband matched my PLX wideband perfectly. I obviously have some issues with the hydra wideband since it was messed up and now it's ok. I think I will replace the wiring for it.

3. As JayL noticed, I was also seeing knock on throttle lift. My throttle pump settings need some work.

I modified my timing maps to be more conservative and took 3 degrees out at 19psi. Everything was peachy. AFRs looked ok too. I think the problems I was having on Friday were just too much timing and boost on pump gas. I will talk to him more tomorrow but I think I will just use that timing map I posted as the starting point for my WI timing trim maps.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Here are some better pics of my engine bay. There's zero nice pics in this build thread and that probably contributes to the common perception that my ride is a hoopty.

Here we go:

https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/some-better-pics-faefloras-car-56242/#post700972

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

Lmao @ title change

DammitBeavis

I always seem to get knock indicated on my J&S when I lift throttle under full load. Decel enrichment doesn't change things for me. I now think it's drivetrain noise, or the throttle hitting it's stops, or something silly like that.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

From what I've read, if you rapidly transition throttle either open or closed, it can generate a lean event. Similar to tip in lean. Sometimes it's drivetrain noise and I guess it can be throttle stops too but also, sometimes it might be detonation.


BTW... I'm sure everyone will love this.

In the tradition of jtothawhat and other individuals who make decent power and then immediately part out, I might be getting rid of my GT3071R and BEGI S5 setup. I found someone who is open to trading their GT35R T4 flanged .63 A/R turbo for my 3071R. That means new mani/dp and exhaust. The T4 housing should flow a shitload and I think that while the GT35 may spool more slowly, it should flow close to the same amount from 3000-5000RPM. If this trade works out I will also be trying to squish a 4" exhaust under the car along with a resonator and muffler. If 4" is not doable 3.5" should still make solid gains over a 3". There was a great article in modified recently about this and in short the 3.5" netted 50hp more than the 3" going from 500-550hp which is about where I want to end up.

I thought this MtG card was appropriate for the potential new turbo. Probably only Joe P and Brainiack and Pusha and the other nerds will get the joke.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Damn, what a f'in hoopty. Fix that.

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

This is what I am talking about! I can never have the same thing too long, this is my 3rd turbo set up each time more power. I am also thinking of going to 3.5" at least lmk how fitment is because I am sure you'll be finished before I am.
http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-11...ech/index.html

Good read, even at 300 whp it made a pretty significant increase in power, a lot more than I would expect.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Wow, that's surprising.

PHILEMENT

Faeflora,

Someone pointed me this way as they said I was getting bad mouthed. LOL! Ok look I'm not here to defend just here to help as I know you're frustrated with how things have turned out. As you know I'm emailing with you to solve all your suggested problems and I have offered to tune out the claimed knock out for free. I'm going to share what I can to help you and anyone who may be in the same position with logs/tuning.

The bottom line here is that you are not reading your logs correctly, there is no detonation (knock retard) and the knock ramp is smooth. Often at throttle lift off you will get high vibrations from the clutch/driveline which will show as spikes in engine noise but the engine is not under load so it's very rarely knock. Now in our Subaru base maps we use a value in the "dynamic enleanment" but Flying Miata sets that to zero. Having a value in there slows the enleanment down therefore running richer during a request to decrease fueling like on lift off. They also enable the "decel fuel cut" which we don't on our high hp or race maps. Basically both of these settings allow some extra fuel to be dumped when you chop the throttle, for instance at the end of a 175 mph straight, which allows the extra fuel to cool the pistons and it's why you see race cars bark flames when they lift. The excess fuel cools things off. First try disabling the "enable decel cut" and see if it changes anything but I don't think it will and it's just driveline noise.

I was getting some flakey AFR readings on the dyno that appeared to be a result of misfiring which lowering the dwell seemed to cure. Once I sorted the dwell and the VVTi things smoothed out but hit a brick wall in terms of power gains. To make as little a +5 hp for every 1 psi of boost was a clear sign of a bottle neck and a sign to stop but you wanted to forge forward and I was happy to. We also did waste a lot of time with the pinched vacuum line going to the Hydra before I discovered it.

Anyways moving forward the reason I think the fuel pressure was dropping or the pump was maxing out was due to how much fuel I had to add without getting much of a change in AFR. I gave you the logs from the tuning session which you can post if you like but we were over 80% duty cycle and the AFR just wasn't richening up.

Typically a Walboro 255 will support about 420 whp max on that dyno with 850cc injectors but from my experience with Subarus when you start going to 1000cc plus it opens the flood gate and sometimes the fuel pressure has a harder timing holding. No doubt changing over to a rising rate fuel pressure regulator will help but we never run Walboro 255 fuel pumps on cars that are going to make over 400 whp on pump, we just go right to a Bosch 044. I am interested in the DW300 but it honestly seems too good to be true when you put that thing side by side with the Bosch.

Any way you know I'm here to help and always have been.

Thanks,
Phil Grabow