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Old 07-27-2011, 09:23 PM   #1301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
Oh, im not speaking the manifold down... if you arent running PS or AC, thats a completely acceptable place for it.

If it were my personal car, i would have top mounted it for the bling factor of that MASSIVE polished turbine housing...
Well I would prefer it mounted top mount too, for bling. BUT then my downpipe would have to make an immediate 90* turn down. Then another turn at the tranny tunnel. Barf.

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watching this build a carefully, but I am predicting, very peaky power delivery, that will not be driver friendly. Just my prediction, not bashing.
Driver friendly... If I wanted driver friendly I would buy a a a buy a a an um a miata. If I make more hp @ 5000RPM than my current turbo then all will be good in the world. The plan is to also raise the redline to 8500 or 9000RPM, bearings be damned. To all the GT25 lovers, I don't think I will give up that much down low and besides, 3000-5000rpm lasts what, like 1.5 seconds tops in 4th gear? And who the hell goes WOT at 1000/2000RPM in any gear other than first? Honestly, with the 3071, sometimes I step on the pedal and it feels like it takes forever to spool, but that's because I'm in the wrong gear. Speaking of gearing, I may be picking up a new super duper awesome transmission...

I will admit, this is partially a quest for numbers. Tuning is fun and I'd like to see what my motor can attain.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:34 PM   #1302
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Quest for overall power is great for a dyno queen, but is area under the curve that makes a car fun to drive. 9k from a Miata engine..... BOOM

Last edited by hingstonwm; 07-28-2011 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:47 PM   #1303
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What makes a car fun to drive depends solely on the driver. Personally, my next setup will have a power band designed to be within the upper rev limit for drag racing. A far cry away from my current setup. But it is apples and oranges for different people w/ different goals for their cars.

8500~rpm on a BP is not unheard of..but, I have yet to see it on a VVT motor. So Min has his work cut out for him there. The power the S366 will make will be monstrous. Even when not fully spooled the torque should be more than he needs. The QSV will definitely help shift the power band to a more friendly zone. More and more people are making big gains with the QSV and some see as much as 1500rpm shift with a gain 140wtq @ 5k rpm vs. with out the valve. It's impressive stuff, but this will be a big test because Min's motor is not quite setup for a turbo that size, in my opinion. I would have nothing less than a 3liter intake manifold w/ v-stacks and some serious head work to make safe work to a 8k+ rev limit.

That turbo is going to push some serious air. I'm very excited to see the results.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:54 PM   #1304
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Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Special announcement:

I'm going to track my car this summer.

15x9 6UL will be in the mail next week
I snoozed and loosed. RS3 are sold out nationwide. Considering full tread Toyo RA1 instead.
I'm undecided about the BBK. 949 11" kit or TSE 11.75" kit? 4 pot or 6 pot?
Will do all the ducting stuff sometime prior to track fun.
???

I'll just read from now on, I do enjoy your thread.
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:21 AM   #1305
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???

I'll just read from now on, I do enjoy your thread.
Wut? I am going to track!!! !!!!



I have autox school on Saturday. I am excited. Tonight I went out and put the car on tial wastegate spring pressure. Which used to be 18psi. And now, is apparently 12.5psi even though I didn't change the spring. Uh, yeah. Time to break out the ol' hammer and smack the ******.

Anyways, I set AFR to happy 11.7 in boost and everything looks great. Car was of course pretty slow. I then set up flat shift. Pretty simple, just set spark cut ramping up from 5000 to 7000rpm where it cut fully. **** ******* WORKED. Saw a steady 10psi between shifts and good ******* lord it sounds awesome. It actually sounds just like antilag and shoots lots of fire. Much faster too! I found my digital camera so I will take a vid. Sick as hell, I strongly recommend it for everyone. Savington says it is gentle on tranny but I am not so sure about the rest of the drivetrain. With my little 12psi boost it was so much fun I LOL'd IRL.
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:16 AM   #1306
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Mani almost done!





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Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-4leqj.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-ywf9y.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-vlkef.jpg  
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:56 AM   #1307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
Oh, im not speaking the manifold down... if you arent running PS or AC, thats a completely acceptable place for it.

If it were my personal car, i would have top mounted it for the bling factor of that MASSIVE polished turbine housing...
I'd say it's more than just acceptable. If you don't need A/C there's no reason for a top mount. A top mount would require 180 degrees of bends in the DP plus a cheated cut right off the turbo to clear the shelf. You needed one with 3" tubing so imagine 3.5" tubing. A bottom mount will only need 90 degrees total and no cheated bends.

function>form
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:21 AM   #1308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
I may be picking up a new super duper awesome transmission...
If that 3.63 rearend ever comes out (in once piece) I'd like to put my name on the log list of people interested in purchasing it.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:30 AM   #1309
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If that 3.63 rearend ever comes out (in once piece) I'd like to put my name on the log list of people interested in purchasing it.
The torsen that's in it will be for sale, but I plan to keep the 3.6 for now. The $2500 Ford option does not sound appealing.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:52 AM   #1310
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I'd say it's more than just acceptable. If you don't need A/C there's no reason for a top mount. A top mount would require 180 degrees of bends in the DP plus a cheated cut right off the turbo to clear the shelf. You needed one with 3" tubing so imagine 3.5" tubing. A bottom mount will only need 90 degrees total and no cheated bends.

function>form
I dont think there is a need for a cheated bend off the downpipe on a top mount setup. but there may be with this gigantor turbo!

I also have taken fluid dynamics in school back in they day so i understand the theory of reduction in volume from bends... but considering that we run mufflers sometimes with a cat converter I think that the extra elbow in the downpipe is negligible in performance (assuming there is no cheated bends). That being said, I prefer to show off... so that makes me impartial to a top mount.

Its great work you do Abe, you inspired me to get out there and make some stuff and now im building more and more things for all kinds of cars!

Matt
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:42 PM   #1311
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I love your work, too. In fact I may be contacting you about an IM soon.

I thought you had to cut the first bend at a tighter angle. I guess I was wrong. Pictures are deceiving. In any case, I'm sure it was a tight fit with 3".

The first bend is actually more important than what's at the end of the exhaust. I'd rather have two 90's on the muffler that one at the DP where velocity is high. As far as cats and mufflers, metallic core cats are very free flowing as is any straight through muffler. That's all I use.
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:52 PM   #1312
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Fae,

My response was for viperormiata. If you are planning on building a multipurpose car, track and street duty, IMO you should be building for max area under the curve. Peak HP does not equate to peak performance, that's all I am saying.
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:11 PM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
Are you planning parallel fuel lines to a y connector at the fuel rail? The 044 has some size to it, where are you going to place them in the car? Also, the out of tank pumps don't like to pull at all...read gravity feed.
He should just do a double Wally like Buschur does for the DSMs. Not sure if the Miata tank is deep enough, but you get the gist:



The run -6AN line like the FM big fuel kit and we v8 swappers do from the tank connection to the rail.
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:13 PM   #1314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
Fae,

My response was for viperormiata. If you are planning on building a multipurpose car, track and street duty, IMO you should be building for max area under the curve. Peak HP does not equate to peak performance, that's all I am saying.
Ohhhhhhh

I'm just building it for funs, so if track times hurt it's ok.
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:07 PM   #1315
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Understood, I'm sure however it's built you will enjoy it.
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:40 AM   #1316
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Done.















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Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-mc3yk.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-hgmag.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-5pnkf.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-pdbgu.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-pkz4d.jpg  

Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-ardsa.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-oxgfn.jpg   Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes.-npmkn.jpg  
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:58 AM   #1317
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.............................aaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:48 AM   #1318
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Looks great.
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:35 AM   #1319
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You might inquire into abe welding a cast aluminum 90 onto your compressor housing

would simplify things greatl in terms of IC piping!
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:59 AM   #1320
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that almost justifies the gnawing away at your frame rail!
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