Faelflora breaks his promise to break no more parts. He breaks eddy brakes. - Page 99 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-08-2012, 10:03 PM   #1961
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Yes each slashcut has its own -12 line into the valve cover. Yes this is required because even with one slashcut, i saw 2 psi crankcase Pressure at 24psi of boost.

I will be running 40psi or so of boost so this is necessary.

Taking a break for dindin and then will hook up sensors and fuel lines and pump relay.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #1962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wittyworks View Post
And why two 02 bungs?
One for gay Hydra, one for AFR gauge.

trolololo
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:42 PM   #1963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
One for gay Hydra, one for AFR gauge.

trolololo
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:50 PM   #1964
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Wish I was kidding.
Will Hydra output to an AFR meter?
Hydra is great and all but yeah you need two O2 sensors.
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:41 AM   #1965
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Car is back together. Broke a meth nozzle though and cant find my 9 other unused nozzles. :(.

Need to wire the fuel relay and install clutch stop. Hopefully that will stop my voltage drop at redline. I think it will. I hope the gas tank doesnt blow up when i give them power.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:53 AM   #1966
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Ok so i got the clutch adjusted but am having problema with the relay.

I have measured 5v signal from my ecu. It is wired to 86. Ground is on 85. The relay doesnt switch over though. I tried another and same deal. I even popped the cover to eyeball if the contact moves. No dice.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:08 AM   #1967
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I'd say F that relay and just use a toggle switch, but not sure if you should / want to do that.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:14 AM   #1968
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I'm pretty sure a standard automotive relay's coil won't trigger off of the 5v signal from a uC.

Easybutton solution would be to build a relay driver circuit like we use with megasquirt.



JS0 would be connected to your hydra, and the output leg would be connected to terminal 86 of the relay. Feed +12v to leg 85 of the relay and the banded end of the diode. Presto. Just make sure you have a transistor that can sink at least 1A.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:42 AM   #1969
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Or find a 12v source for the relay.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:08 AM   #1970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski View Post
I'm pretty sure a standard automotive relay's coil won't trigger off of the 5v signal from a uC.

Easybutton solution would be to build a relay driver circuit like we use with megasquirt.



JS0 would be connected to your hydra, and the output leg would be connected to terminal 86 of the relay. Feed +12v to leg 85 of the relay and the banded end of the diode. Presto. Just make sure you have a transistor that can sink at least 1A.

Curly is right that this relay is a 12v relay. Damn. Is the ony way to trigger it via my hydra to use Jeff's circuit? I dont understand a lot of his recommendation since i know squat about circuits. The reason why i want to use my 5v signal is that it hydra nicely primes the pump for 3 seconds on key on and then shuts off.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:11 AM   #1971
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should you not still have that with the oem loop still?

my miata with afm bypass was key on, pump on with a manual byapss to turn off when i wasnt going to start the car for a moment.

Why cant you use a ecu ground with a +12 into the relay? you dont need to give positive voltage from the ECU, just use the ecu to ground?!
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:12 AM   #1972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski View Post
I'm pretty sure a standard automotive relay's coil won't trigger off of the 5v signal from a uC.

Easybutton solution would be to build a relay driver circuit like we use with megasquirt.



JS0 would be connected to your hydra, and the output leg would be connected to terminal 86 of the relay. Feed +12v to leg 85 of the relay and the banded end of the diode. Presto. Just make sure you have a transistor that can sink at least 1A.
Actually this doesnt look so hard. To do this, i would need

1k resistor
1amp transistor?

Again i dont understand how this would work.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:14 AM   #1973
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I need to install a set of those slash cuts. That way when my rings blow their brains out all the smoke will go out the exhaust and not on my windsheild.lol
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:38 AM   #1974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Actually this doesnt look so hard. To do this, i would need

1k resistor
1amp transistor?

Again i dont understand how this would work.
Don't forget the diode. That's critically important to handle flyback voltage (unless you're a fan of ECU resets and possible damage).

Think of the transistor as a relay. When you apply the 5VDC to the transistor gate through the resistor, it turns "ON" and connects one end of your relay to ground. Since the other end of your relay is permanently wired to 12VDC (or, maybe wired to 12VDC through your ignition switch), the relay closes and powers your pump.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:13 PM   #1975
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I know this is completely off topic right now but that filter/intake you got on there will rob you an easy 50whp when its all said and done, no im not exaggerating.
Sick build though, this is first time iv gotten a chance to look through your thread and i must say im impressed by your setup selection, i dont think id do it much different myself.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:33 PM   #1976
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I wouldn't have the patience for all this, doin a good job fae.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:45 PM   #1977
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Hornetball or jeff can you please give me a radio shack parts list? I want to do this today and git er dun.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowna View Post
I know this is completely off topic right now but that filter/intake you got on there will rob you an easy 50whp when its all said and done, no im not exaggerating.
Sick build though, this is first time iv gotten a chance to look through your thread and i must say im impressed by your setup selection, i dont think id do it much different myself.

Mr slowna you really think that about my filter? I could always do a dual filter. I will need some sort of intake pipe for my pre-compressor meth nozzle.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #1978
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Purchase list:

1x 1n4001 Diode
1x 1k 1/4watt resistor
1x TIP31 or TIP120 NPN transistor (they don't seem to carry any small transistors that can sink enough current)
1x through hole PCB with solder pads (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104052)

Take that list in and any of the worker minions there can help you.

You'll build the circuit like this:


Make sure to get the diode as close as possible to the relay.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:15 PM   #1979
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Wow damn that is complicated. I have never built a circuit in my life and will surely fluck ut ip.

Fortunately, i am a genus and realized that I can just use the factory relay to trigger my new bigup relay. Im a genus.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:23 PM   #1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Fortunately, i am a genus and realized that I can just use the factory relay to trigger my new bigup relay. Im a genus.
Wait, WTF. What relay have you been trying to use instead? Or did I some how totally miss that?
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