Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Update; misfire issue is not 100% removed, however the bucking is massively reduced in severity. I have acquired a pigtail and harness as well as a spare sensor which means I wont have to hardwire things in again, going to install these tonight and see how things run tomorrow. You can see my sweet Razer Chroma keyboard in the background, my girlfriend gives the best gifts :-)



Oh, and I got an aluminum latch for my GoPro after the OEM plastic one broke in half in Japan on our vacation (Booo!)

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Swapped out the crank sensor, car runs slightly better but still has 'bucking' issues. Swapped out my COPs for a set of spares and I'll see if things improve tomorrow. Only alternatives are the cam sensor or wiring (or Hydra just hates my setup+36tooth wheel...). I also tightened my throttle cable up a touch since it was slightly loose. The Maxxis tires don't like rain and mid 40s temps, no sir. Gentle driving until it warms up.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Went autocrossing Saturday, weather was a paltry high-50s (peaked 58-59) cloudy, and WINDY. Good grief it made getting tires warm hard. I managed to get almost the full width of the tires used even with 9s, and I ran 34/37 for PSI. Just brushing the edge of the patch.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

More good news! Swain has returned my manifold. EXCITE! The flange face had some material sticking, had to hit the high spots with a file. Everything's flush now, sitting pretty.

Next on the list of plans is to install the manifold, turbo, downpipe and water lines and then have an exhaust fabbed. Downpipe and Exhaust are still being prepared by Trackspeed, I expect I should have them by June at the latest. Once I have things ready I'll be driving to Colorado at the end of June for a vacation planning around a concert on the 1st (Shpongle and Beats Antique) and leaving the car w/ FM for tuning for e85 and high boost pump gas maps, setup the EBC and (time allowing) play with the cam gears. Depending on how things go, I may install the twin disc clutch before the trip as well.







You can still see casting lines here, probably could have cleaned this up a little better. This is the forward-facing side, though this gets largely covered by the turbo.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

That's how I felt when I saw the box

Until someone pointed out the studs not being quite.... square. Upon inspection, two of the studs had apparent impact damage. Initial inspection I found the top rear stud was bent down and inward, just enough to not allow things to mate up. Took another look at it and when I saw it I could only think 'please don't be the threads, please don't be the threads, please don't be the threads...'



****. Well, that might not be UNfixable...


Figuring out the angle of deflection, marking for memory.


THE FIX. I was able to fish a tap on the threads and get it cleaned up, there is still a bit of notchyness but it definitely works! Double nut and whack it with a hammer until straight. I chose a body hammer because of the reduced mass. Don't mind the apparent damage, it's just a reflection.

JUSTICE LEAGUE ASSEMBLEEEEEEEEEEEE(d)!!! Man the manifold looks slick mated up to the clean turbo housing. Everything just looks a huge step up from my 2560.


Stage8 hardware installed! I had to clearance the turbine housing a hair for the front two teardrops to get things to sit well enough to get those retainers on. Material removed was trivial and I took the minimum required to make it work. I made sure to leave no rough edges and keep things smooth, don't need any stress fractures now!


Just waiting on the downpipe and hardlines now! Eeeeeeeeee

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Was reading another user's build thread and they had this same issue of random oil on the side/front of the engine and pan and it turned out to be this bolt missing. I used to have A/C but removed it, didn't know there should be a bolt here. I've had oil leaking on the front of the engine forever, not enough to cause alarm, I just figured it was the oil pan seal or something along those lines. Here's hoping maybe this will fix it.

Missing bolt, oil gets squeezed out between the block and pump if it's missing.


Replaced with an M8 1.25 45mm - So far I'm oil free after some very spirited driving.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

So, while wheelspinning 2nd gear back to work from the gas station I was thinking about how a 3.6 set of gears and a 6spd might be in my best interest. Especially when I'm pushing 400hp with the new turbo. Also thinking about ABS sensors for the rears for traction control. Might look into 01+ABS in general at some point.

Going to use an 01+ sport booster, prop valve and a 1" MC from 949 racing. Planning to switch to 11.75" fronts and sport rears whenever I get the BBK as well. I'll do all of the conversion at once probably during a downtime over the winter. I've been thinking about getting the SuperLite kit from Trackspeed since they'll fit under the storm s1's, the pads will last forever and they're not much more expensive actually.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I did some reading on Soviet's build thread and he mentioned with the same turbo running e85 at 29psi -- he was almost maxed on 1000cc at a referenced 60psi base pressure. I'd like some headroom and I've read some great things about the ID1000 and larger injectors in particular the idle quality. My DW1000s have a fairly rough idle quality, which I can live with but if I can smooth that out and lower the RPM to keep it running, hey even better!

I've also read that I could see voltage drop at the pump if I bump up the pressure any further, so I'm going to hardwire the pump using a remote relay/fuse kit from Fab9 and pickup some ID1300s. From the sounds of it, the injector spray pattern on these keeps getting better and peaks around 90psi fuel pressure. Not sure if I want to go that high but it's great to know I can

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

You will have a much wider selection of brake pads in the rear if you use the non-Sport calipers.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

So no rub with 245 and 9" wide?

I'm on the fence with 9's because 10 > 9...but this might just be easier until I hack the body up.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Can you clarify? I probably did some reading on this a while ago but I'm coming up blank.

No rub, I rolled mostly flat. There is a gap between the lip and the fender but it's about as rolled as you can with an OK fitting roller. There was some minor pulling mostly from getting it rolled, more in the front than the back. I didn't rub anywhere except for under hard cornering and braking after coming down onto a low spot from a high spot. It rubbed in the front outside tire tub, not on the fender. Make sure you hammer the fender tab that attaches to that securing rod and bumper up so you don't catch the tires on them (someone else did that). Bear in mind these are +35 wheels so the offset helps a lot. Speaking off, I have verified they definitely wont fit on my friends exxocet, the tires will likely rub under hard cornering in the back lol

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Seemingly more pad options at a lower price with the 94-05 rear caliper shape that are not part of the sport brake lineup. Sport brakes are a bit more niche and have less support. $$$



Thanks! If I order 6UL's then that's right around the +36 regime so that sounds great. Does it float more than you would have anticipated from sidewall flex? Are you happy overall or would you dare say you might prefer the wider wheel?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

It does have a degree of that, I haven't been able to drive it enough to get a good feel for it though. There's a lot of construction and traffic lately and good god the speed traps. Other than that autocross it's mostly been commuting. They definitely deserve 10s, but since there's only a few options I'm not risking weeks of downtime because I bent a wheel and there's none in stock.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Do you have power steering?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Nah, depowered the rack when I had the NA frame+rack, wasn't too bad except for parallel parking. Swapped to NB subframe+rack and this setup isn't much worse, though I have max caster so it's even more of a bear to park. If I'm just rolling, it turns no problem.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input. I guess now it's just a matter of whether or not I want to do additional bodywork while getting rust repaired to support 10's. But it's great to know 9's are working

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Credit card got locked out because someone tried to charge $125 to ChristianMingle...? How did Ted Cruz get ahold of my credit card?

Anyone wanna sponsor me and send me a set of ID1300 injectors? You can have giant door and hood decals during all track events

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

The rear Sport caliper shape has very little support when it comes to pads because the Sport brakes were only offered on later NB's, but the normal 1.8 rear brakes were from 1994-2002 (unless the Sport brakes are present, obviously), so they have more pad choice. The Sport and normal rear calipers fit the same on the Sport sized rotor if you have the Sport bracket to fit the normal calipers over the rear 10.9" Sport rotors.

I, however, do not know how all that will affect your brake bias, since you are wanting to go to a different master cylinder and all that. Go find OGRacings massive brake thread and ask in there, he usually responds quickly.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Good point, that's a great option to have thanks for the info!

Anyone know how long the oil feed is for a 94 block to the turbo? Trackspeed's kit sources from the passenger side but I'd rather keep my driver-side source. Less length means less likely for it to breach due to something stupid breaking.