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Old 03-26-2014, 12:25 AM   #81
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After using a heat gun to do mine I would recommend freezing with dry ice and shattering it with a hammer. Using a dry chisel and wire brush with the heat method is a pain in the ***.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:44 PM   #82
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Lots of great comments in here recently.

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Originally Posted by jacob300zx View Post
You should add the 99-05 subframes will you have it all torn apart, keeping carpet is nice as dust collects in your garage and on your first out lap blows all in your face, pull the bumpers and remove those big hunks of crash support metal, order a different rear bar.
I need to research the subframe differences. I noticed that Emilio puts NB front subframes on his cars, but I honestly hadn't considered it. Hmmmm . . .

Consider the crash support metal gone. Thanks.

On the rear bar, car currently has RB front and rear bars (I have the OEM bars as well). On the other car, I run an RB front and OEM rear and have been pretty happy with the balance. I've noticed other track-types run the RB front and either OEM rear or no rear. What's the recommendation for 150RWHP? Guess I'll go review Emilio's 95R build thread.

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I can't get over how clean that chassis is.

Now is a good time to take a heat gun and remove the tar at the floor drains in the passenger compartment, and in the trunk floor.
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After using a heat gun to do mine I would recommend freezing with dry ice and shattering it with a hammer. Using a dry chisel and wire brush with the heat method is a pain in the ***.
N TX = No Rust + Hail Dents (speed dimples). Fortunately, this car was garaged so no hail dents. Only real damage was PO induced (hammer and drill).

Is removing the tar really worth it? How much weight are we talking about? Looks like a huge PITA to me.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:52 PM   #83
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IMO my buddy ran with out a rear sway and we didnt like it at all. The rear end felt like swinging a pick up truck around corners. It had slightly better traction as weight would transfer to each wheel more but the rear roll was annoying and sloppy. I use to run an FM rear and took it off and put the stocker back on. The FM was too stiff and gave me a lot of oversteer.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:54 PM   #84
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It really isn't a lot of weight, if memory serves me right it's at most a couple lbs.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:01 PM   #85
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IMO my buddy ran with out a rear sway and we didnt like it at all. The rear end felt like swinging a pick up truck around corners.
What spring rates? The higher the spring rate, the less you need to add with a bar.

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It really isn't a lot of weight, if memory serves me right it's at most a couple lbs.
So, a track-session worth of water weight? Cost-benefit doesn't seem to be there.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:05 PM   #86
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True, but I mostly removed it since it was ugly, I don't have any carpet or anything in the trunk so I wanted to clean it up a bit. Plus it was sticky so anything you put in there got covered with grime,
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:08 PM   #87
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Fm Springs on KYBs

Front springs: 318 lb/in
Rear springs: 233 lb/in
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:18 PM   #88
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My Silver car has 550/325 FCM Bilsteins. This car is getting 700/400 Xida CS.

318/233 is really soft -- but probably about all the KYBs can handle. I can see how dropping the rear bar would feel lousy with those rates.

Last edited by hornetball; 03-26-2014 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:44 PM   #89
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Dude! If you are getting Xida's already just put the big grip kit on it and call it done. Emilio has done all the hard work for you already, just use the configurator and plug in your expected tires.

Everybody that rides in my car is amazed by the suspension. Everybody.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:07 PM   #90
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Car already has the RB front sway and adjustable end links (unfortunately, the RBs). I have a full set of control arms with urethane bushings pre-installed sitting on the workbench (bought these from RHarris for cheap a while back). Bottom line, once I add the Xidas I'll basically have a big grip kit.

Oh, I also picked up some TSE prawns with full hose kit from a friend for $80. They will replace the OEM backing plates that suffered from PO hammering.

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Old 03-26-2014, 11:10 PM   #91
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Quote:
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Is removing the tar really worth it? How much weight are we talking about? Looks like a huge PITA to me.
It is not a lot of weight, but removing 1 pound 100 times is 100 lbs. If you start making weight reduction a priority, it is amazing how much you can whittle off over time, and the car performs better in every way. You just have to start somewhere, and don't miss opportunities
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:09 AM   #92
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MSM rear bar on 949's site, or stock
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:55 PM   #93
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A little bit of piddling last night.

Started experimenting with seat bracket shapes. Wanted to see how the Ultrashields would sit with different shapes. Looking at TDR's seat mount as an example, here's one shape I cam up with:

This one doesn't give a lot of leeway to move the seat back. I'll probably end up having to remove the rear OEM seat bracket bumps.

Also mounted the NACA inlet for my planned CAI. I know Emilio says not to overthink it . . . but I can't help myself.


Business end:


Won't be much progress this weekend though. Grandson's birthday party in Houston.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:57 PM   #94
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Love it, i need one of those NACA ducts for my intake too. Where'd you pick that one up?
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:59 PM   #95
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FM for $170. Not cheap, but light and functional.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:45 PM   #96
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Quote:
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FM for $170. Not cheap, but light and functional.
That is the major thing deterring me from getting one. Plus painting it too.

Considering I have an TSI, are they sixes? As in, either or work?
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:25 PM   #97
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TSIs kinda point towards the bulb part of the headlight when they're down. Amateur aerodynamics says they won't work until the headlights are up, and any benefit is most likely outweighed by the parachute effect of the barn doors. Emphasis on amateur.

The headlight lid however, empties with a direct path to an area many of us place our filters. They're also designed to more or less suck in air, it's not just that tiny 1/2"x3" hole you see. I'd consider the NACA headlight lid a bigger bang for buck over the TSIs.
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:14 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
TSIs kinda point towards the bulb part of the headlight when they're down. Amateur aerodynamics says they won't work until the headlights are up, and any benefit is most likely outweighed by the parachute effect of the barn doors. Emphasis on amateur.

The headlight lid however, empties with a direct path to an area many of us place our filters. They're also designed to more or less suck in air, it's not just that tiny 1/2"x3" hole you see. I'd consider the NACA headlight lid a bigger bang for buck over the TSIs.
Thanks! I wonder if you made an aluminum duct that curves down under the bulb if that would help the TSI to be a bit more functional.

I know the positive air flow around that area isn't amazing but just a thought.
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:49 PM   #99
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Again, amateur aerodynamics at work, but I believe air is hitting the fairly vertical part of the bumper below the turn signals and forcing everything past the TSI, not really into. Do some yarn testing with a gopro!
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:30 AM   #100
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But seems to me the TSI is much closer to the high-pressure region than the headlight naca intake.

CF is sexseh though.

+1 on yarn strings video on the naca duct.
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