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Old 05-31-2015, 08:24 PM   #141
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Just a thought... It shouldn't be too difficult to add an EWG connection to the CX Racing manifold. Just need a SS weld elbow or short piece of straight pipe. Cut a hole in the CX manifold near the turbo flange and in the collector area. The weld new SS pipe/elbow to manifold, add 2 bolt or v-band EWG flange, profit! :-)

Obviously you will have to put some thought into how the EWG will sit, clearances, dump tube routing, etc. However, this will allow you to rig the IWG to stay shut (spot welds on the WG flapper door + fixed rod to hold WG arm from being forced opened by boost pressure, if the welds crack) and run a much more robust EWG.

BTW... I am going to add an EWG connection/flange to the MkTurbo manifold which I just received. In my estimation, by the time that I port the IWG/housing and still have a good chance of some boost creep, the $300 for an EWG will be money well spent.

Good luck with it!
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:58 PM   #142
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I actually was seriously thinking about doing that. I had the same thought of being able to weld a 2 bolt flange right on the collector. However I just got a Turbonetics iwg with dual ports. Hopefully using this with my ebc I will get better boost control since it will have the help of pressure pushing the wastegate closed until its close to my boost target. I will play with this setup to hopefully get it working much better than a typical iwg but I won't get my hopes up. If this doesn't work I will go the external wastegate route with open dump tube. I held up my external wastegate to the manifold a couple months ago and there is plenty of room in there. Only concern is having all that extra weight hanging off the end of the manifold and it cracking eventually.

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Old 07-01-2015, 07:46 PM   #143
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Well its been a while since I had an update. Been having to much fun with this car now that I finally have the second engine rebuilt. The engine has roughly 1300 miles on it now and everything has gone great so far. Runs and sounds as solid as it looks. Just switched to T6 at the 1200 mile mark.

Had a couple issues on the first start getting a crank signal but after going over several things on the MS3X I finally found the problem and cranked it up shortly after that. Break in when great, engine ran great and MS3X is the shiznit. Not much else to say other than its been running great and I've spent the last month tuning and enjoying driving it around and butthurting many muscle cars. It's definitely the fastest its ever been and Virtual Dyno shows the car to be around 325whp on 18psi. Hopefully I can get it to a real dyno soon once I get a few other things worked out such as boost control and being close to being out of fuel.

Some recent pics for you guys



































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Old 07-01-2015, 07:48 PM   #144
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<p>E85 only or running flex fuel?</p>
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:54 PM   #145
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E85 only due to 10.5 wiseco's. Was running Supertech 11:1 pistons in the last engine but was to scared to put them back in because of the wrist pin snapping in half. Instead I will be using them in a different n/a build for my other miata at some point.
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:01 PM   #146
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I would like at some point to install a flex fuel sensor though. That way I'll be able to take into account the variances of the ethanol content, like 70% ethanol in the winter and 85% in the summer. Being a high boost/high comp I need to know exactly whats in the tank. I try to ask the manager at whichever gas station I'm filling up at but none of them seem to know how to look up what they currently have, either e70 or e85
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:15 PM   #147
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The mobile app is excruciating, so I'm going to just ask what transmission you are using?
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:05 AM   #148
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I am running a 6 speed with a 4.1 rear end. Not ideal but it's ok for now until I come across a 3.9 or 3.63
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:49 AM   #149
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So recently I've been trying to figure out how to go about adding an adjustable fpr. I still had the stock one on there and I needed something to allow me to bump up the base pressure because I was nearing 80% DC with my ID1000's. I searched a bunch and didn't really come up with anything. Everyone that was doing this was running an after market dual feed fuel rail like the FM or M-tuned rail. I would much rather go this route but it seems that no one makes a fuel rail anymore for the 99+ heads. Maybe FM still makes them but are just out of stock for now so in the mean time this is what I came up with for the stock rail.

Looked around for an adapter to fit the fuel rail but all I really found was crappy ones from Hong Kong that weren't even the correct size and people were having to modify them to get them to fit. After measuring and doing some digging I found this little gem made by Turbosmart. Part number is TS-0402-1002. Got it from Summit racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tbs-ts-0402-1002
It's actually made for Toyota/subaru but looking at the dimensions it was exactly what I needed. I received it today and it fits perfectly, bolt holes line up and fits nice and snug with no leaks and is a quality piece.





Installed a 1/8" to -6an 90degree fitting and installed it on the fuel rail.


Then -6an braided hose to the Aeromotive Fpr.







Works great! Set base pressure to 60psi and then started the car up, adjusted the fuel map and then checked for leaks and all was good so went for a test drive and everything works perfect. DC is now about 15% lower so now I should have the headroom I need on these ID1000's to get close to 450whp. This adapter should also work great on the earlier 1.8 and the 1.6 if anyone is looking to add an afpr without having to spend money on a fuel rail. I do however plan on getting a dual feed fuel rail if FM ever gets them back in stock or if I come across one in the classifieds but for now this seems to work great and it was much cheaper.
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:54 AM   #150
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Exactly what I'm going to run. But with a flex fuel sensor thrown in.
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:07 AM   #151
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Yes same here one day when I eventually get around to it! Im just glad I found that fuel rail adapter. It made all of this so easy. I wasn't sure what I was going to do before I found it short of finding a dual feed fuel rail.
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:08 AM   #152
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Yeah I posted about it in the VVT thread a bit ago. My build thread too.
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:14 PM   #153
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Dang well its been a whole year since I've posted anything in here. Life has gotten in the way and got my first kid on the way so things slowed down on the miata for a bit.

Main thing was after I rebuilt the engine the last time with Wiseco pistons and manley rods, shortly after my last post above from a year ago the engine started making a random semi loud knocking noise that sounded like rod knock or a spun bearing or something. I changed out everything out that could possibly make that noise, new water pump, new alternator, even pulled out the engine and checked the bearings and replaced them all with some Clevite bearings even though they all checked out fine. Everything else inside the engine looked fine and nothing stood out so I put it all back together and low and behold, it still made the same noise. At this point I was frustrated and out of ideas and I was scared to drive it, being that this was the second built engine I built in the last 6 months. So long story short, the car has been sitting in the garage for the last 9 months as I walked by it pissed off everytime I looked at it. And in the mean time I had bought a 99 silver NB and scored a used FM2 kit for it and have been daily driving it at 10psi and enjoying a nice, reliable, fast daily with ac.

Well I finally decided to get this miata back up and running and to see if I could figure out this knocking noise. I guess I needed that 9 month break because as I was putting it back together I found out I could rotate the crank pulley back and forth a little bit. I checked the 4 small bolts that hold the pulley to the crank pulley boss and they were all 4 loose. For some reason I had never thought to check it. So I tightened those 4 bolts back down and amazingly the knocking noise from 9 months ago went away! I was super excited and continued to drive the car around to make sure that really fixed it and it has yet to make that noise again. So after all that time and checking and replacing everything it just turned out to be a loose crank pulley bouncing back and forth. Also the walbro 255 to a crap after sitting in e85 for 9 months. It started making the death whine, so I ordered a new DW300 pump to replace it. Its much quieter than the walbro and is working great.

So now I am slowly getting back the car back together completely since some small parts were taken off to be used on the new NB. I forgot how fast this thing is and now driving around I remembered why I did all this in the first place. RIght now I am trying to get the car retuned and back running 100%. I am so excited that the fix for the noise was so easy as I was very close to selling it, and I would have been really pissed finding this out after I sold it. More updates to come as I keep adding things. I would like to get this thing on a dyno soon to see where its currently at. Some Virtual Dyno logs show it to be roughly somewhere between 325-350whp at 17-18psi.

As it currently sits


DW300


Cut out a SADFAB coil bracket at work to replace my shitty bracket. Fits perfect and much more compact and sturdy


And my silver NB that I now have to sell as I cant fit a car seat in it
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:30 PM   #154
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Bracket looks great! Glad we could contribute to your build.
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Old 07-24-2016, 04:30 PM   #155
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MMmmmm car ****
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:47 PM   #156
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It's always something stupid isn't it... Say, you ever gonna replace my 6speed? lol.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:35 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianferrell View Post
It's always something stupid isn't it... Say, you ever gonna replace my 6speed? lol.
You ever get that Borg Warner EFR on there yet? I need a new turbo cause this old journal bearing turbonetics spools so slow. Same size compressor as a gt3076 but the turbine wheel is 65mm compared to the 60mm on the gt3076. Doesn't start spooling till 4k and can only reach full boost in 3rd and after. Need something ball bearing with a t3 turbine housing and 5 bolt exit so I don't have to change manifold or downpipe. I can get a ball bearing gt3076r with a t3 5 bolt turbine housing but it's $1500. As much as I don't want to I'm looking at a gt3076 sized cxracing "ceramic ball bearing" turbo for $400 but I'd like to know if it's actually ball bearing or not. Just can't afford a $1500 turbo with a kiddo on the way
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:40 PM   #158
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Please try it out and let us know.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:54 PM   #159
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Lol I was already the Guinea pig for the cxracing new tubular turbo manifold and downpipe. And while it's been holding up great it does have its downfalls. I was hoping someone here has either tried one or know someone who has one that can actually confirm that it's ball bearing and worth the extra $200 over the regular journal bearing eBay churbos
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:55 PM   #160
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If it's listed as ball bearing it probably is. But who knows if it will actually hold up.
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