Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Nahh it wasn't bad. Hardest part was getting the fan shroud out to get to the belt. Probably took me maybe an hour, hour and a half tops.

Other than that, she's a blast. The Miata felt incredibly slow to drive again. Maybe it's the old E85, maybe it's that I'm used to twice the power now. But the 335 with the JB4 tuner on it is pretttttty darn quick. The difference it makes it makes over stock is incredible. And when you go above 40% throttle the gas gauge turns in to a boost gauge

It even supports boost by gear, which was 100% necessary with these tires. They're basically brand new, but they're like 400tw. So.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I got a nice big BW turbo with a squick spool valve, and a 4" exhaust sitting in my garage. I am sure we could come to an arrangement for it, then the BMW won't fill slow any more.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Yeah but then I'd have to actually build a motor for the Miata lol.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Do you have any 1/4 mile time slips for the 335 with the j4 tuner?

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

I do not. I don't really intend on taking it to the drag strip, too much chance of breaking things. I could do it on the street with my SADFAB gps though.

Question:

Thoughts on using the fuel pump to drain the tank? Bad idea to run it at 100% Duty for that long? Also, where can you dispose of gas?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

No different than running your car for a while. Just less pressure on the pump.

i just run old gas through my truck.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

I'm slightly afraid to run like 9 month old E85 through my car. lol

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Pump will be fine, no worries there. Pumping fuel with no pressure is easier on pump than normal operation.

If E85, I'd just burn it with some street miles. Or if you got1/2 a tank, add 1/2 a tank of fresh and run it.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone ever seen an adapter to mount a Greddy BOV on a Tial flange? I am finding a ton of adapters to go the other way (the logical way), but nothing that works for my scenerio. I want to throw on a greddy bov I have to see if it fixes my compressor surge.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

@18psi, you cut the tabs down on your ebay 52mm radiator to make the OEM fan shroud sit flush, right?

I seem to remember seeing you saying that somewhere, but I can't find the post. I am trying to fix my cars tendency to overheat in traffic and under track conditions. With a 52mm rad and a coolant reroute, I should not be having these issues at my power level.

Step one is to add an undertray back (purchasing the LRBSpeed aluminum one, though I may just use the bottom portion without the sides), and trying to get the fan shroud to sit more flush with the radiator. Also isn't there as setting somewhere in TunerStudio to have the a/c fan turn on any time the main fan does to aid in cooling?

I am unsure yet whether I need to seal the rad to the core support with a foam or something similar.

Also I am redoing my megasquirt patch harness so I can relocate my megasquirt somewhere besides the steering column. So if anyone has any suggestions regarding cheap 20ga TXL wire, I'm all ears.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yes, I trimmed them and then cleaned/chased the threads since they were shallow
don't get the alum junk, get OEM
seal the rad and fans, shrouding/ducting is very important

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Already had this rad in the car for a while, so I certainly want to eliminate other potential root causes before resorting to a new radiator.

Will post updates once I have all the shrouding complete.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I was not a fan of the lrb aluminum shroud. You can get a new OEM one for around $70. I would do that before buying the lrb.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I believe 18psi is saying to get the OEM shroud instead of the aluminum LRB one.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

It's not hot yet, but, interestingly, engine is staying cool without undertray, since the reroute.

Time to pull mine off the road, pull bumper cover, HID conversion, and proper ducting. I think I will go with either lowering my FMIC, or ducting underneath it, as Sixshooter has done, to get air to the radiator. I think Genesplicer did it that way also. FMIC's that fill the mouth turn out to not be ideal.

I bought a used, stock undertray to be able to cut it more precisely this time (around the charge pipes). I also have a TON of the HDPE sheet to use for ducting if you want some of it.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

My i/c pipes don't allow for me to reach a lot of the stock mounting points. I certainly welcome suggestions, but I had no luck the first time I tried. It was just too flimsy once I cut what needed to be cut to get it both around the 2.5" pipes and bolted to the tabs. It's been a couple years though, so I'll plan on getting under the car and taking another look at it.

David are you using a/c? My car has historically been unable to handle anything above like 70F ambient with a/c on in stop and go traffic,

18psi

iTrader: (76)

correct: I was talking about the tray.
OEM - win
most (all?) other's I've seen tried - mediocre at best

*edit: though I did just google it, and that one doesn't look too bad. bet it costs a ton tho

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I have A/C. Since boosting, the only time I have overheating related to A/C use is at about 45 mph up a slight incline, on my way home from work, about 2 miles from home. Idling was not an issue, and neither was faster driving.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Like $125. @concealer404 bought an NA one but I don't think he ever used it.

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I have the ac condenser, an oem rad core for my w/a ic and a 55mm koyo and run 210deg on 90deg track days 180 to 190 on 100deg days with the ac on.
i think that many of the problems people have are due to having air in the system with the coolant re-route system that just dont burp it out