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Just Another F20C build... <Preview>

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Old 08-16-2011, 10:44 AM
  #81  
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I second that I am in for some pics.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:02 AM
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Probably just a load of baffles of various shapes and a couple of chambers. I'll get my 9 inch out (lulz) when I get back and have a look.
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:06 PM
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I have made a shocking discovery. The standard '95 Eunos Roadster rear silencer contains



GENUINE HUMAN HAIR

It also contains the following.









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Old 08-16-2011, 12:30 PM
  #84  
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Ooooooooooooooooooooo exciting first box of new stuff.











Small and light. Very light. I'll be running two of these - one in a trans tunnel cut out just in front of the (euro side) driver's seat, and one after the 90 degree bend just before it exits in front of the rear wheel.



^ Zircotec heat shield. I will need this.



^ Stack gauges. Oil pressure and water temperature are both mechanical units.



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Old 08-16-2011, 01:21 PM
  #85  
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Nice gauges! i want that tach
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:03 PM
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Better get some ear plugs and get use to wearing the m that car is going to be painfully loud. I do you like your gauges!
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:23 PM
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I have literally been researching ear defenders for a few weeks now, ha. I wear shitty foam earplugs all day at work, so a nice pair of comfy ear defenders will be a luxury in comparison :P
Seriously though, yes, it's going to be loud. I like loud in a car like this. Not for attention-seeking reasons, just because it increases the interaction and excitement. Hingston, I know you like your exhausts very quiet though, so we will always disagree on this subject.
Thanks for the gauge compliments - I've associated Stack stuff with motorsport and Caterhams/Lotuses for so many years now. As sad as this is, it feels like a dream come true to know I'll have a Stack dash in front of me in this car. This particular tach seems made for this kind of engine, too.
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:15 PM
  #88  
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I've spent a couple of days after work modifying the existing dash binnacle for the new gauges. It should be done tomorrow... so finished pics soon. The first three photos below are of the standard binnacle in various states of undress, because I thought you lot might be interested to see what's in there.
Re. the new binnacle, I'm going to paint the stainless mesh black, and run a bead of some sort around the edge to cover up the join between mesh and plastic. Hopefully it'll look rather fetching when done.
I've got the day off work tomorrow, so I'll actually be able to get over to the shop and hopefully finish cutting and trimming the doors. I'll also take a few photos of the latest work Qprep are doing, i.e. fabricating the transmission tunnel









Edit: got called in to work today. Also working tomorrow. So no time for working on the car, unfortunately :( I should be able to finish the dash on Sunday, so photos will appear then.
Attached Thumbnails Just Another F20C build... &lt;Preview&gt;-sbirs.jpg   Just Another F20C build... &lt;Preview&gt;-l6mqa.jpg   Just Another F20C build... &lt;Preview&gt;-8um7o.jpg   Just Another F20C build... &lt;Preview&gt;-jlvum.jpg  

Last edited by owenwilliams; 08-26-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:37 AM
  #89  
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Finishing the binnacle today. Just waiting for the ten billionth coat of paint to dry, then I can get on with trimming the edge between mesh and plastic, putting the dials in, and possibly trimming the back.
FYI, SuperExtraIndustrialStrong glue turns EVERYTHING near it white. Who knew. I certainly won't be using it again in the future without masking everything off around it first. Oops.

Trial fit -




Oh look, everything has turned white. Great.
N.B., the spacings aren't even because the tach and speedo are different sizes. It's not because I'm ****... honest. -




That's better. Mesh is repainted gloss, the binnacle is painted matt. Obviously, the paint is wet here so it all looks gloss. -





EDIT: I will not get done tonight, because I need to wait for paint to dry before I can finish. Again.
Tip: If you want to use black string as edging but only have white string, do not use the white string and think "Oh I'll just spray it black". White string does not like being sprayed black, one coat at a time. It stays white. Hopefully, after leaving this semi-black string 24 hours to dry completely, I'll give it one more coat (HA) and that should be it done. Then I can attach the front of the binnacle to the back, put the dials back in, and then it'll be done.

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Last edited by owenwilliams; 08-29-2011 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:32 PM
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The stuff you found in the muffler is very freaky.
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mazpr
The stuff you found in the muffler is very freaky.
It's not actually hair, it's broken up exhaust wadding covered in soot.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:27 PM
  #92  
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Still deciding whether to put LEDs in for indicators/high beam light etc, or just.... not. I quite like the idea of having no extra unnecessary lights in front of me. An engine warning light will be sensible, but that might be it as far as other stuff in this binnacle is concerned.







I've been very busy so I haven't been able to go and see the car in a while. Apparently the new firewall is all in place, and work on the transmission tunnel and front crossmember is well underway. I'll get over there when I can, but it's not looking likely this week
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:55 PM
  #93  
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Wow!
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:00 PM
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How does the speedometer work? does it have its own speed sensor?
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:45 AM
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One question: Why? If you incorporated a AFR gauge I might see the point, but you copied the stock layout completely. I'm sure you have your reasoning, but I'm missing it.
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:44 AM
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:26 AM
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How much did you pay for the Stack tacho?
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:02 AM
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If you dont want a ton of lights... you could just install single LED's in that perforated sheet you used. it would be very clean and you wouldnt even notice it.
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:54 PM
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How does the speedometer work? does it have its own speed sensor?
It should, in theory, use the factory speed sender.


One question: Why? If you incorporated a AFR gauge I might see the point, but you copied the stock layout completely. I'm sure you have your reasoning, but I'm missing it.
1) I originally just wanted to change the tach, for a couple of reasons: firstly, to take account of the increased rpm range of the Honda motor; secondly, to eliminate the apparent inaccuracy of the standard tach at high rpm. I quickly realised that the standard gauges are all connected into one big printed circuit board, so changing only the tach wasn't (to my knowledge) possible.
I could have just used an S2000 dash like everybody else, but I don't think the pseudo-high-tech-ness of the Honda dash is very in-keeping with the vaguely classic vibe of the car. So I decided to replace all the gauges.

As the motor will be standard-ish, I don't think an AFR gauge, or oil pressure/fuel pressure gauges etc etc are necessary, at all. And besides, they would just be another thing to constantly be monitoring out the corner of my eye, worrying that something might go wrong. If I do go for a Dastek Unichip type thing, I'll tune the WOT AFR on a dyno, then leave it alone.




2) ..........................because I can.

How much did you pay for the Stack tacho?
It retails over here for £200.

If you dont want a ton of lights... you could just install single LED's in that perforated sheet you used. it would be very clean and you wouldnt even notice it.
That's the plan, if it happens. Apparently it's a legal requirement to have indicator, er, indicators, a high beam indicator, and hazard and fog indicators, the latter two of which are elsewhere in the dash.
But then, it's also a legal requirement to have a cat...




Thanks for the compliments guys
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Old 09-06-2011, 03:03 PM
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Oh also, an S2000 prop arrived yesterday. And SuperPro polybushes, inc. ARB bushes, arrived last week. I went with SuperPro because they should, in theory, be the bestest. They're used in quite a few high-profile race championships in the UK. What makes them good (apparently) is that they're designed to be as fit-and-forget as OEM bushes. Ie, no re-greasing every 6 months/year/two years/whatever.
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