Techsalvager

boost controller hooked up to intake manifold?

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

i'm taking the boost source from the FPR vaccum line, and i got it to hold on the coolant valve or what not(that i block anyway)

absRTP

iTrader: (12)

-

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

so, here is the suspention i bought for 250$,difference is unbelievable.cant wait to get my harddog roll bar to stiffen up the chassis even more.
new suspention vs old shitty one







randomly parked with my neighbors mx




going to get my MS tuned in 2 weeks, cant wait to turn up the boost

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

got my MS street tuned and upped the boost to 16 psi

i suck bad at tuning, and my spark map was plain dangerous,super happy that i got that solved.a buddy of mine knows MS tuning a bunch more than me i he helped me out on this one.

also got my tach signal back online with the resistance trick founded here on mt.net,plus ABSrtp solved my bmw tps wiring problem:P only problem is that i broke off my speedo cable :(

got a short clip

1.6 rebuilded short nose
familia 8.5:1 pistons
b6t rods
garrett gt2560@16psi
artech ram manifold+3'' exaust/muffler
stock drivetrain on 205 50 15 marshall powerracer(cheap)



conservative tune, 10.5-11 afr at wot.
but with lower compression ratio, i could use more timing right? fack,i really need a dyno i guess

Techsalvager

What motor did those pistons come out of?

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

mazda familia canadian edition, 88-99 only.

Techsalvager

yeah pics of the pistons?

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Needs more boost and more timing.

Dyno!

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

my ubber cheap internal wastegate is setted to 3 psi(bought it that way) i tried to get it to 20 with the mbc, but it failed completely and showed peak only.
i need a better/external wastegate, and THEN a dyno.

sorry mate, i dont have any pics of the pistons.

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

another update.
after shreading the open 1.6 diff i installed a 2001 atx open diff. 6'' ring gear and 4.3 had to go since i first bought the car

i'm now debating between a obx+rebuild kit or a rx-7 lsd


i built a roll bar with a friend in Ontario, results are good, clear both tops,and bolts right in, still have to paint it in school, now for the pics part

my buddy started to cut and grind,

i was preparing body prep


the car have been repainted , with acrylic oem red paint.
acrylic sucks, so i'm gonna prep everything, seal it all, and go with conventional waterbase/clear.


more roll bar prep/plans






having a bender is awesome, having an hydrolic motor WOULD HAVE BEEN AWESOME
seamless 2'' is a ****** to bend










with harness bar and single diagonal, all tig welded



still got to paint the bar, more to come later

car is stored for the winter, and i'm midway through my course, so i'll be painting the car in spring only.slowly but surely i'll get my first car painted by april

mr.na

Big props for you my men. Huge thanks to help me out on my project. I like how your build is developing. Keep up the good work!

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

here some update to the project.


i painted the bar with basecoat/clear coat,had 4-5 coat of clear to make sure it holds up


had some rust issues on the car, and since i'm a automotive refinishing student,
i went ball out with my new mig welder.i cutted a huge part of the rocker, and re-did the driver side quarter.i'm using flux-core wire,so don't judge the welds by their look




















i also started to cover the floor with sound-deadener. i putted 2 layers over the back/fuel tank.2 layer over the rear wheel arch, and th whole floor/trunk.
i'll do the door panel too.



i'll be finished with sanding the primerdown this week.
in 2 weeks i'll be done with school, and i'll be able to borrow school paint booth:P

stay tuned for sealer/paint/clear:P

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

did a fair amount of work yesterday. going in the paintshop first week of may.




last rusts spots


finished seamwelding,


primed everything, getting there, changed both fenders, and rear bumper





need more time, sand everything smooth,get everything back together,resand everything, and i'll get on with sealer.


the only thing , is that i cant settle myself on what color using, i've been on it for literally months, and haven't decided for sure

i have to admit i'm slightly colorblind, so i cant really explain what i mean without pictures.

i want a blue that dosent have any shade of purple-ish/aqua/greenish reflect.
a royal blue, pure blue without looking like a fisherprice toy. forget about eurethane and acrylic, i want some pearl effect and deepness.

having a 500$ budget for the paint alone, i can get some nice paint.


i ended up with a top3.

lancer/evo octane blue pearl D06
http://1-photos4.zibe.com/used-2009-...8911-1-400.jpg

mazda indigo light blue 38k
http://www.mazda.ie/assets/master/ca...dan-mazda3.png

Blue Sensation Pearl 2009 Fit Paint Code (B548P)
http://images.dealerrevs.com/gallery...hp?id=43696012


cant decide between those three, have to make a descision in 3 weeks:(

curly

iTrader: (25)

I vote for the Evo blue.

Have you considered making some plates for the roll bar to go down the rear parcel shelf wall like hard dog does?

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

yes i did, i allways wondered why the bars were going alongs the side of the seat, but i tought i couldn't tilt/move the seat back to the max with those.

figured out why after we made/installed it.
bar can be a good 1''1/2 hight if made 4 inches foward. now my head barely clear's it , but with a helmet on, it's plain impossible to clear it, even with my 3'' foamectomy on the driver seat.


thanks for the reply, i'll try to make my choice asap.i rented the paintbooth for the first of may

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

did huge amounts of works these past weeks.
finished every little re-construction spot

starting wet sanding outside, since i'm using only hand tools, i dont want anything to be spotable under the paint,using 600-800 wetsanding paper clears all the sanding marks






i also ditched the oem 1990 softtop with a cracked mica for a 2004 top with glass and defroster:P got the NB seats too, it was a while since i waited for a NB partout





started to paint/clear all the spots that i wont be able to paint while in the paint booth


using water basecoat/2 part clearcoat in cans, what an amazing product, it cost way too much, but the color is just amazing for spraypaint

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

phase 2






that's a lot of cans:P



i even re-did tha gravelguard, wich gave a shitload of problems, there was some sort of chemical reaction and the whole paint on the door panel started to bubble and fall apart.i cant say what happened, but i had to strip all the paint on hte door with a razzorblade and re-start all over , at least it was only one door panel.



finally made it to the paint booth




primed, and the sealed
car is now one-color, been a while:P


mitsubishi octane blue pearl(d06)

using DUPONT paint is just awesome





preparing clearcoat:P i'M using DUPONT sub-brand called NASON,


first clearcoat









finished!


pics of the actual finished product later on, the car is still there since we ran out of time.

mr.na

looking good my friend. It pays at the end. Pretty sure you cant remove your smile from your face. After all the efforts. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to see you.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Hell yeah! Your miata is really coming together. Just watched the video of the pulls you put up, looks quick! Now it'll be sexy too.