Yay the raft is back together. However, theres a bit of an issue. I reconnected the battery and the car, without the key in the ignition, tried to turn on. O_o what the hell? Any ideas why this is happening?
I think the starter is fine. I had no issues that last time I tried to crank the car (right before I pulled the motor, for kicks and giggles). I think is just the wiring. I realized that the rubber cap that covers the connector (not the ground that is self attached to the starter) broke, thus making these two wires touch. I'm almost positive this is why the car crank as soon as the battery's negative is connected.
Okay the car no longer cranks when the battery is connected. The two cables at the starter were touching which apparently creates a short and cranks the car. I fixed that issue. Now the car is ready to go ans it does not crack or even click with turning the key. Ideas? I want to get on the road again
The car runs and everything except the tune a rather big leak on the drain is what's keeping me from enjoying the car. I have a GT2870 churbo. The original drain fitting I tried was the regular GT28 drain which did not even came close to fit. I remember then ordering a fitting for a T3 which was a bit closer to fit; however, I did have to drill one of the sides bigger to matte it to the surface at the turbo. My question is for those that use this turbo what freaking fitting are they using for the drain?
The car works and I can tell is flowing a lot more air than before. VE values in boost have almost doubled. I fixed a vacuum leak and it's spooling a lot better. I have a high idle that I really don't care for right now, but I will fix eventually. The car is in desperate need of alignment and new front tires. It feels good to be back in business
Hello I need help to diagnose a problem with a leak that I have no idea where is coming from. Oil is someway reaching my alternator. I have no idea where it comes from. I initially thought a main front oil seal leak could cause oil to get on the belt and onto the alternator, but there's really not any visible leaks coming from there. I seem to have this same problem in both of my last two motors. Could the idler valve be left open cause this?
I am still having issues with my MS. My VE table is acting weird. It is demanding more than 255 values and leaning out very bad at >10psi. The only difference between the last set up and the one I have now is the 99 motor. Although it has been establish that the 99 head flows better it does not justifies all that air, or does it?