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No worries, I got it working with Trackmaster the other day.
i had it connected in my house the other day, but it wouldnt display any data in trackmaster. i just wasnt sure if it was because i was sitting still in a house. what was wired is that it would display in some random gps app i downloaded.
2. on sunday the coolant weep was replaced with a pretty good oil leak at the back of the head. after every run i would have a small puddle around spark plug 4 on top of the valve cover. coil packs are getting soaked.
3. ...
4. while griding for my last run sunday, a noise developed right when you revved the engine just above idle, like an exhaust rattle
4. was a loose heat shield and the tranny exhaust brace had come loose too.
heres what was causing 2, how does this even happen?
and the front one, although this one didnt appear to be leaking
cross hatch still visible. 152k btw. no ridge above the ring line, im pretty happy with how this thing looks
cylinder #2. they all looked about the same
piston crowns look normal i suppose.
The valves look like **** and have some buildup on them. I didnt get a chance to get pics, maybe tomorrow. Im going to clean all the HLAs, have the head cut and seals replaced at a minimum, guides and seats if necessary.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 10-23-2016 at 10:43 AM.
That blows.Considered maybe just getting a 1.8L and going from there?
I have and im always on the lookout for one, buts its not dirt cheap like everyone here makes it seem, at least not in the phx market. The cheapest ive seen a 1.8 in the last 3 years (and im on craigslist most days) was $750. ive found a few very questionable long blocks for a little less, but it wasnt worth the gamble to me. Then I would need to get the swap parts and make a new mani. It would be $1000+ easily. Makes no sense when this 1.6 is in pretty good shape, and will meet my power needs easily as im driveline limited. My machinist does awesome work for a "how are you in biz?" price, and I got a super cheap felpro gasket set on ebay. Ill have this head refeshed and the gasket replaced for less than $200 and an afternoon of my time. BTW if you ever need a machinist, Action Speed and Machine in mesa, not to far from you. Kieth- (480) 545-9665. Also, the 1.6 revs more better. I got a bunch of pics of the valves and chambers but ive been too lazy to upload them. They indicate that my valve stem seal theory was correct, in increasing severity as you get to cyl 4.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 10-23-2016 at 10:46 AM.
I've got a 95 motor that needs to be rebuilt taking up space, I havent opened it up but by the way it smokes its got a hole in a piston the size of your mom's vagina. Eventually I'll make a for sale thread.
i meant to correct my previous post. i was leaking both oil and water and that head gasket seal is actually a oil passage, i was mistaken. so yes, we had the same oil leak, and my water leak was the heater core hose and water nech/fitting on the back of the head.
leafy theres a few "builder" blocks around. thats not what i want to do right now. if im going to build a shortblock, its going to get rods and pistons, damper, pump, etc. no funds for that right now or for a while.
I spent all morning degresing the engine and whatnot. I got a TC extende length clutch line to install as well. I used the "BogusSVO" method of sanding the deck with a sanding block (chunk of aluminum).
Pack the cylinders and oil feed with grease to keep the crap out
I made a dowel to fit the alignment sleeves
They are stuck good and I was about to tear them up trying to remove them, so they stayed in and I had to dress the one with a file. I worked around them.
My sanding block
Not to bad. A low spot on the drivers rear corner, I dont think its much though. I cleaned the crowns too.
Just waiting to get the head back and ill be on my way.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 10-23-2016 at 11:00 AM.
Are you using an OEM gasket? Doesn't it squish real good so a perfect sealing surface isn't needed the way it would be for mls gaskets? I used a razor blade and light steel wool and its holding 15psi just fine
Oem type felpro (might be oem sourced?, see previous post). yes they "squish real good", but the surface still needs to be flat and cleaned and prepped. This is not an MLS prep, no where near. Its just a method of cleaning the deck surface real nice like and ballparking flatness. Like we discussed in your build, ive used the razor blade and scotchbrite pad or similar in every HG ive done prior to this one. I just like the way bogusvo does it after I read his thread, so I did it his way. Old exhaust is getting ripped out tomoorrow and im going to start to hack my motor mounts. Turbo goes on when I get the head back, probably sometime this week. So much exicte, although its already to hot to drive and tune :(
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 10-23-2016 at 11:01 AM.
@aidandj bwahaha 2 notifications? Factory motor mounts suck so much they dont even deserve a focused picture
I really need to stop using my phone(beat up S4), I have a decent point and shoot somewhere.
40mm at the bottom, a little over 41mm at the top thick, I called it 41mm. The "bucket" is 2mm thick, making the whole assy 43mm from subframe to block bracket
At this point, the torch came out.
The ashes were wire brushed off.
And brackets welded on.
A rubber bushing from a mid 60s ford flacon/mustang/ranchero/etc. lower control arm. I didnt happen to just have this bushing laying around, I found it here: http://www.federalmogulmp.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Rubber%20Bushings%20by%20Dimension.pdf
Moog pt. no. k8034, which they dont make anymore, so I crossed it to a few other part #s. Duralast/autozone has it under FB226, and rockauto as an acdelco 45g9021.
I placed the centerline of the bushing 10mm higher up on the lower plate so it has more clearance with the bolt head that protrudes up through the plate, so I offset where the shell welds on accordingly.
It's not finished welded in the next few pics. I could only do a little at a time so the rubber wouldnt melt.
This was my clutch hose
This is my clutch hose now, so much better and cleaner.
The convoluted tubing was brittle and just falling apart on this section of the harness, so I stripped it down. Ill redo it in the next few days. Still waiting on that cyl head.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 10-23-2016 at 11:59 AM.
Damn, that's dope. CPW mounts in a miata. I'm going to have to come up with something like that, the mazdaspeed mounts are seriously lacking IMO. Glad I kept my old mounts, hope you don't mind me copying you a bit!
Damn, that's dope. CPW mounts in a miata. I'm going to have to come up with something like that, the mazdaspeed mounts are seriously lacking IMO. Glad I kept my old mounts, hope you don't mind me copying you a bit!
Not at all, tagged aidan so he can copy. If you do it just right with clearances, you can keep the upper plate making it a bolt on affair. I didnt think it would all fit(I thought I was going to have to cut into the block brackets) so I just made it like it wouldnt, realizing half way through it could be done with the diameter of bushing i chose.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 10-23-2016 at 12:01 PM.
I think I'm going to do something similar. But weld the bushing sleeves on differently. I like the way the AWR mounts do it. I also won't be doing it until I have a real welder.
04-20-2015, 05:43 PM
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