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Old 12-31-2015, 12:22 AM   #1101
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How long do rod ends last in a spherical bearing arm? Would you be replacing rod ends every season? Leafy?
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Old 12-31-2015, 12:33 AM   #1102
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******' HOA's lol.

There is an old hag here that rides her bike around almost every day through the whole neighborhood and reports the **** out of everyone. Skin like leather and we call her the **** Lady, she makes my eyes hurt...
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:37 AM   #1103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
How long do rod ends last in a spherical bearing arm? Would you be replacing rod ends every season? Leafy?
I asked him and others in the spherical thread. No one ever wants to answer that question.

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******' HOA's lol.

There is an old hag here that rides her bike around almost every day through the whole neighborhood and reports the **** out of everyone. Skin like leather and we call her the **** Lady, she makes my eyes hurt...
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:43 PM   #1104
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Got the rear apart, which gave me an opportunity to check on the spherical bearing I installed late 14'. Its still tight in its bore and has that new bearing stiction. My seals did a great job of keeping everything out and the retaining compound shows no signs of failure.





RLCA delrin done



Ill tackle the RUCAs later today, maybe.
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:21 PM   #1105
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Quote:
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How long do rod ends last in a spherical bearing arm? Would you be replacing rod ends every season? Leafy?
**** rod ends man. Sphericals only. And it depends on use and how tolerant you are of play in them. They start making noise well before they have more play than poly bushings have play, but I really cant tell you how long that is. Just give you the sliding scale of the more you pay the longer they last.
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:29 PM   #1106
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Aren't rod ends just sphericals in a rod end body...
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:31 PM   #1107
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Aren't rod ends just sphericals in a rod end body...
Yes, but most control arm setups put the threaded part of the rod end in bending, which is bad. And the body around the rod end normally isnt as strong.
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:39 PM   #1108
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Yes, but most control arm setups put the threaded part of the rod end in bending, which is bad. And the body around the rod end normally isnt as strong.

Aidan is a terrible qualifier.

He was just asking about ball to housing(the spherical) wear. Come to think of it, I cant see how you could ever configure a control arm so that threads arnt in bending mode, let alone so that the threaded sections still provide their intended function.
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:45 PM   #1109
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If you put the threads in line with the arms on typical A arms they're not in bending, but then you cant rotate them to change camber or toe or whatever because they wont fit in the mounts.

But yeah wear is really going to depend on loading and I really just dont know how long they're going to last. You can try and figure it out based on the information in the front of basically any bearing company's catalog but its going to be based on hours while loaded. Its a pita to calculate bearing life for industrial apps that basically do the same thing constantly, never mind for a car.
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:59 PM   #1110
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So basically: aurora (and that other manufacturer that we like that I cant remember right now) > qa1

Aidan is testing the qa1s in the rear upper knuckle for longevity.

Should we take bets?





Put me down for 6 days.
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Old 01-02-2016, 04:21 PM   #1111
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What's aiden using for tires? Thats going to be the big factor for loading.
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Old 01-02-2016, 04:24 PM   #1112
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probably star specs. I want in on this bet, so I can get my money back from the qa1s. I also put 15k a year on them

I got $25 on no play this time next year.

Middle of next season i will start to get wear.
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Old 01-02-2016, 04:39 PM   #1113
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Based on how my auroras look, I wont be surprised if you get a year before they start getting loose; assuming teflon lined spherical.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:03 AM   #1114
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RUCAs done! well R&D anyway






Hostess came out with new fruit pie packaging that doubles as soft jaws. I like the apple.

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Old 01-14-2016, 05:11 PM   #1115
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So with a full delrin suspension, you still need at least one "flexible" bushing in each LCA for alignment bushing misalignment. I really didnt want to buy the full front and rear arm kits just to use 4 bushings out of them, and you cant easily buy these bushings from ANY poly supplier (although that issue is begin worked on by someone). So I found a "good enough" solution for my car.

Energy sells flanged poly universal bushings for if you are back halving a nova or something.
energysuspension.com | UNIVERSAL #1: Link-Flange Type Bushings, Universal Mounts/Isolators

9.9482 is perfect for the FLCA raer position on all dimensions except the OD, which is 1.375" instead of 40mm. So this:








Ideally the total width of the bushes installed in the arm should be 60mm +0.5mm / -0mm.
60mm is 2.362" for the math impaired.




The bore is perfect for the bronze setup and everything!

Now for the rear, im going to try 4.2132. Im still waiting on those. I already know they wont be as perfect a match as the fronts were, but it should work just fine.



On a separate note, im trying to get classic car insurance coverage for the old bitch. I was lead to believe you call an insurance company and exchange money for insurance, but i spent 5 hours on the phone today and i still have regular geico coverage.

To summarize: geico, progressive, classic car, safeco, grundy, american modern, heacock and at least a few others wont insure a vehicle with 2 owners on the tittle that arnt married. I understand why, but fail to see how a simple contract regarding payout wouldn't work. Im not marrying mike, so... Also, use of the words, or phrases: driving experience, drivers education, track, track day, race, and timed are absolutely forbidden.

Hagardy was more than willing to insure it in any combination of ownership or use, but they are exorbitant. I was told it was due to a combination of my age and the insured value of 10k.

So off to the DMV tomorrow to take mike off the tittle, we'll write up a contract between ourselves, and ill redo this insurance bullshit.
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:50 PM   #1116
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Hagerty would be cheap if you pull the registration and dont drive it on the street.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:31 PM   #1117
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Hagerty would be cheap if you pull the registration and dont drive it on the street.
That defeats the whole purpose. The only reason i need this insurance is because i want it keep it street legal. If i pulled the reg then i wouldn't need emissions, which is what this type of insurance exempts me from. Also hoa wouldn't allow me to park it here if it was unregistered.
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Old 01-15-2016, 04:51 PM   #1118
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I think I'm paying Hagerty ~$200/year per car. Agreed value was somewhere between 5K and 10K each. Don't remember. One is registered as a classic, the other one is regular registration. Annual mileage per car 5,000 or lower if I remember right.
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Old 01-15-2016, 04:51 PM   #1119
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Haggerty wouldn't insure me cuz of my driving record :(
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Old 01-15-2016, 05:01 PM   #1120
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My miata is salvage, I can't even get comprehensive. All they'd pay for is broken glass, why even bother.

Can't even ask for 2K in theft coverage, lol.
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