kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

First, I'd like to ask for tuning help! Once the turbo is installed, would anyone be willing to help me street tune? I can pay a bit (beer), and would drive to you.

So in the year and a half or so I've had my miata, I've tried to do everything I thought necesarry up to adding power. Here's the summary:

-2.5" mandrel-bent catback, magnaflow straight-through, copied from DP6061, copied from RSR


-stance GR+ coilovers

-Boundary eng. frame rails

-new crappy wheels and tires

-r lip

-painted hardtop

-1.6 dash swap, custom covered by me:


-hard dog single diag hardtop rollbar

-a/c delete

-p/s delete

-moss low-pros

-brain-built MS2 standalone

-various DIY stuff and CR-inspired shizz

-LC-1 wideband, db analog gauge

-FM stage 1 clutch happy meal with 10lb flywheel

-braided clutch line

-mixing manifold has been flipped/welded/drilled/tapped for low-mount prep

-koyo 55mm

turbo parts I have waiting:

-ebay IC and FM pipes (actually installed just not functional, "interfooler"

-gt2560r

-autometer pro-comp boost gauge

-old fm bov

-absurdflow centered low-mount (Thanks Tim!)

-spare hood for polished extractor shenannigans







shift boot is back on now:


not this low anymore either, decided i liked to drive


engine bay as it stands (fuckpollen)


The plan is to install the turbo and get it running this month, I'll look for some more currrent pictures...

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

here's more:












Sorry fo the excessive amount of pictures, but I love my car, and I know how some members have trouble reading

edit: forgot the Sparco seat (no pass seat in this photo) great photos I know

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

Advice needed:

Slim fan choice? (cheap and awesome, of course)

Where should I take signal from for the boost gauge? Is tapping into MS's signal (from mani) ok?

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Ebay slim fans have worked flawlessly for me. Just make sure you run them parallel.

I had my map line tapped into the frp line, then I tapped everything else off of that line inside the cabin.
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kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

assuming you mean fpr, thanks... If you really mean frp, I dunno what you're talking about.

Hm, there's lots of ebay slims, I heard somewhere the curved blades work better?


NEXT QUESTION: Should I ceramic coat my mani? Is there any serious structural downside to leaving it bare (mild steel)? It will rust, but enough to cause problems? Rust isnt a huge problem down here

curly

iTrader: (25)

From what I've seen, turbo heat may be a little much for ceramic coating. I'd just paint it with exhaust paint. Depends on how pretty you need your exhaust manifold to be.

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

hm, I've heard that ceramic holds up better than that? Guess not, I'll look into it more, I'm not wanting to look pretty, just to protect my investment mainly

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yes it does, but it costs more than $5 too.

If this:
is true, just do exhaust paint.

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

Progress:



EGR is blocked off, pan is tapped with -10AN in there, turbo clocked, feed line is in. I have a 45 degree fitting for the drain, which is what I thought I would need looking at others' setups, but it looks like I need a 90. Other than that I need a short piece of 2.5" and 2" ic piping to shorten the fm silicone pipes. That and a tight 90 welded for the compressor outlet, damn I wish I had a machined round outlet instead of a flanged one...

Also, these arrived yesterday:

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

drain is in, water lines are in, relocation of ait and wideband are next

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

I havent seen a harris teeter since i lived in Wilmington. Use ebay fans. Dont build your own wideband.

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

I'm not building my wideband? I'm moving it because it was in the factory spot and it needs to reach further down near the cat

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

wideband mounted, ait half extended, ic pipes done, bov on, slowly cleaning up

thasac

iTrader: (3)

The regular silver stuff (1700 deg) will hold up on a street car if the part is prepped properly. It will turn grey when heat cycled, but it still looks better than oxidation and can be polished back up with mother/blue magic.

Then there's the Tirado customs ceramic 'paint' which has a great rep in the mitsu crowd which is good for higher temps.

There's also the more expensive Swain and Jet Hot routes which are suitable for for turbo applications and also provide noticeable thermal improvements.


I have the silver, 1700 deg cheapo crap on the exhaust housing of my turbo and after 7k miles it's free of any cracking or lifting. The key is prep and installation. Like powder coat, once you scratch the surface and expose the base metal to the environment the oxidation will work its way under the coating and promotes lifting. The only part I had lifting on was my manifold and it was in areas which got marred during a number of installs/removals.

-Zach

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

Interesting, I'll see if I ever get around to it, eagerness got the best of me as you can see. I'm also thinking about polishing it a bit to keep rust away, since that's free. Anyway, I'm all done minus intake, heat wrap on water hoses, and dp which needs to be made, which leads me to my next question:

CAN I RUN WITHOUT MY WIDEBAND SENSOR IN?
WHAT DO I CHANGE TO STAY IN OPEN LOOP? TS/MS2
I'M LOOKING FOR THIS INFO, HAVN'T FOUND IT YET

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

Alright so it's running, drove about 10-15 miles today with my sr20 collector on (about 7" total of exhaust). Got caught in a torrential downpour halfway, but pulled off to wait it out and all it good. No leaks, builds boost, sounds ******* amazing. I wish I could keep the exhaust like this. I'm so pumped to get the dp made, which will hopefully happen tomorrow, then I can really boost since I'll know what's goin on with the afr's

Oh and it's faster too, I beat a Yaris!

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

dp done, build complete for now! Just time to tune :(

WonTon

iTrader: (17)

i want those wheels, gimmie!

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

$800 takes them, 13x8.5, 5.5bs

Here's my base timing map I'm gonna try out, I'm currently working on target afr's for it, critiques encouraged, but consider that I am just trying to get something fun but safe until I make it to the dyno in a couple months.

Is VE Analyze still the best way to go for figuring out fuel? Autotuning for boost worries me, and I'd rather not log, tune, log, tune, log...

kewilso3

iTrader: (4)

10psi btw, maybe I'll go to 12 when I dyno