SmOky

iTrader: (2)

Awesome, that is exactly what I thought. Thanks for the info!

Yezzir

I'm also an industrial designer! PM'd you

Jeffbucc

OK surfed through your student portfolio...wow. Very impressive work man. Thank you for the good work on the Aircast Boot too...I've worn those too many times in my life.

Man that fuel rail setup is clean...I need to look at mine again, it is a jumble of hoses and T-connections.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

If I were to do it again (which I might) I would probably use PTFE hose for the feed instead of the hardline ... vibrations+aluminum makes me a bit nervous. I'll run it on the street like this, however, if I ever get serious about track time I'll change it for ease of mind.

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You could have run stainless hardline. Stainless AN line is nice that a single flare is strong enough in most cases where aluminum probably always needs a double flare.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Because I'd rather slit my wrists then try to repeat those bends with stainless ... though I might end up trying this if I'm feeling ambitious.

Double flare? Seems like a lot of the small aircraft builds are running single flare aluminum lines, though, maybe those suggesting it online are the ones whom end up scattered about a field on the evening news.

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Single flare is probably fine for normal fuel pressures maybe.

Did you make your bends with a bender? When I made my oil line with stainless and the harbor freight bender I didnt find it to be all that hateful, I just made sure to use a ton of oil on the die.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Yessir, my bender is even a bit more up scale then the HF tool. Perhaps what I'm imagining is far worse than reality. While I love SS, I generally avoid working with it.

-Zach

Jeffbucc

Back in 2011 VW did a recall on TDI's due to vibration cracking the aluminum high pressure fuel pump injector lines. The solution for them was rubber blocks that go between each hardline and valve cover. No one has had any issues since they "fixed" the issue.

Could be cheap insurance for a lot less work and time spent bending S.S. lines.

Just a thought for yah.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Wow. I assumed those hardlines were SS. I would NOT run aluminum hard lines directly on an engine. Especially on the street where you make get lots of cycles. Fatigue.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Sigh ... I'll swing by the brake warehouse and see if they have some 3/8" SS

In other news, my 949 shipment came. When the box says 'racing' you know it's good. Items purchased: RB .188" bar, 949 endlinks (which are nice BTW), and a Wilwood bias adjuster.



Just in case, I installed grease fittings on the the sway bar mounting brackets (yes, I drilled a through hole in the poly bushing).



And I finished up my part on the breather tank and will be taking it over to my beloved welder, John, today (who does all of Killer-B's oil pans - great guy).





Lightened and painted the mounting bracket.



...and, since designers don't to CAD drawings, the welder gets a pretty colored picture instead.



Now I'm just waiting for it to NOT be 9 degrees outside.

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Thats a cool 21st century napkin drawing.

The RB bushings, dont forget to sand those ******* so they're even with the brackets.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reminder ... sure enough, there's about 3mm more bushing then required.

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The HF belt sander took em down in mere moments. Way better than using washers like I did with the previous bar.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

??

Learn me please. What's this about?

Jeffbucc

Jesus christ that work is perfection. Mad props.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

If you look at the picture of his bushings you'll see that the white metal brackets arent touching the table. If you bolted them to the car like this, they would squeeze the swaybar and cause it to bind when you tightened the bolts. So you can either run a washer ground into the shape of a D on each bolt to space the brackets away from the chassis or you can sand the bushing down to be the correct height. With the thousands of these bars that RB has sold like this you'd think they've have figured out the correct bushing.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Oh, gotcha'. Knew about that one.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

As I near first start-up, I'm beginning to start the check list. A couple questions:

A) Is there a calculator for setting the base pressure of a 1:1 regulator for non-OEM injectors? I'm running 650cc EV-14's with a 190 pump and an Aeromotive 1:1 adjustable FPR. I know the OEM FPR is roughly 43-45 @ atmosphere but that's with 19Xcc (?) injectors. I know this involves some simple math but I doez not compute and cannot find the equation.

B) Is the non-AFM base map for the MSPNP-1 safe to run with an OPEN wastegate? DIY states the map is scaled for boost so I suspect I will be safe. I should note that I would simply be peg legging to car to my personal garage on the base map.

C) Is there an MT approved install for the LC-1 on a 1.6 miata? I've searched the **** out of this subject and I've read mixed suggestions. My current working assumption is to ground at the OEM point under the brake booster, es bueno?

D) Poly bushings - worth it? I'm a week away from painting and installing all my front end suspension bits and now would be the perfect time to install poly bushings. This said, my OEM bushings still look good and I'd rather put the money towards a Kirkey seat or door bars or beer . So, for a street/non-competitive track car -is it worth it?

Thanks in advance for any feedback. Love you guys

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

For A, the stock regulator will give you the rated output of your injectors since most injectors are rated at ~44psi base pressure. And as long as it isnt broken it will always give that pressure differential unless your fuel pump doesnt flow enough.