hector

How about you return the damn thing instead of dealing with an out-of-spec product. Trust me when I tell you I understand your position but for ***** sake, when are we as consumers going to say enough! Or is the thing that inexpensive? Notice I didn't say cheap. That is another meaning altogether.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

It seems normal to have to dial in and use offset dowels on aftermarket bell housings. I'm not sure why though, the parts I make at work are done in 2 ops and I designed the fixtures so we have at most a 3 thou blend line, and that's a function of the tolerances on the datums of the parts not the machining, if I had dowel holes to use as datums I could hold them to a few tenths. I might call them tomorrow after I double check the measurement today.

hector

Well aligning the bellhousing with offset dowels is one thing. Another thing is not being able to align it even with the offset dowels. In which case they need to give you one that can be aligned. Wouldn't you agree?

I guess they can argue that your block is the one out of range, too.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Assuming that returning it for a part that actually fits is not doable, I would be inclined to cut it in half, align the trans on the block, and weld it back together.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

You had/have fuel pickup issues with high G- was this resolved? was a surge tank considered?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

No, not yet. Still have to run like half a tank to be safe though I've gone down to 1/4. Its been low on the priority list, but I'll get to it eventually. Though once the new motor goes in I'll probably run a full tank of gas for the ballast.

They're measuring and then sending me a new bell housing. If its good on their mock up motor and bad on mine then I know its my motor and I'll just get offset pins. Hopefully it'll be good. I set it in place and hammered some firewall stuff. I forgot to take pictures of anything its going to fit, but its going to be real close on hood clearance depending on how high the power bump on the hood is. I'm literally 3 inches short of not having to do a custom shifter

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Still waiting on a new bell housing. I think this old dude smokes too much of that legal weed in denver and keeps forgetting. I havent been motivated otherwise because theres a bunch of **** I just dont want to do, like prepping for wiring, that I should be doing. I did do this though, finally.




Aw yis valved quick disconnects on the fuel lines.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

Damn... I just opened this thread for the first time in a few months. I've been researching a 2.5 swap with a T5 for a few weeks now and even thought about PMing you to pick your brain at one point. This is awesome. I'm thinking about doing it on my NB mostly for track day fun, but I also want it to fit NASA TT/PT classing, so prefer to retain stock subframe with no firewall or tunnel mods.

I exchanged a couple emails with V8Roadsters about their 2.0 MZR swapped car but I didn't want to waste too much of their time. It seems like they mostly just did the swap for their STU (road race) car and they aren't in any rush to put together a kit- if they decide to at all. They're currently using their tubular subframe with a stock MX5 oil pan and they had to cut the firewall to clear the factory MX5 coolant stuff on the back of the head. They told me I could probably use a drysump with the stock subframe but the firewall would still need cut. They're switching to the raceline dry sump, which is also the dry sump that I've been most interested in because of price and simplicity, but I wasn't expecting steering rack clearance problems. Any idea how they're going to make it clear the steering rack? Are you mostly struggling because of power steering being in the way? They're also using a stock MX5 trans, but so far I like the T5 better since it stands the engine straight up and should give more exhaust clearance with a stock subframe. V8R said header clearance would be the biggest issue if I kept stock subframe, which I can definitely believe if you use the MX5 trans with the 10 degree tilt toward the exhaust side.

More pictures!

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Theres zero chance you can get it even close to clearing the hood with a wet sump oil pan without changing the steering geometry no matter which rack you use. The Ranger coolant stuff is lower profile than the miata stuff, but in that shot you can see the liberal use of hammer on the firewall, nothing moved more than an inch for class legality. The damn egr section of the header flange is also going to be a slight pita. There's probably more exhaust clearance than on a stock NC, but there's not going to be much margin for error getting the downpipe out of the engine bay with the stock subframe, that'll probably require more hammer. My drysump setup is going to be cheaper than the raceline, basically $1500 including shipping for everything that would be included in the raceline kit. If I decide a kit is worth it on this car it'll be more obviously to pay for my time cutting and welding the pump brackets.

I also found something interesting out a couple weeks ago. A custom quartermaster 7.5" twin disk clutch is ~$800 if you supply a flex plate for the motor. And if you wanted to be retarded to could get a 5.5" setup for like $200 extra and have less MOI than the 949 twin disk for less money. You send them a flex plate and what tranny its connecting to and some cashola and boom, twin disk. Of course this only works if you have a starter solution with a flex plate for your motor/bellhousing combo.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Would this work with a miata auto trans flexplate on a BP?

Also, pro solo launches on a 5.5" clutch...good luck haha.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

thats why I was planning on the 7.5 north of 400hp and a 5.5" clutch trying to launch on A7s on an unprepped surface doesnt sound possible.

I think it will work, the auto and manual BP use the same starter right? I think your bigger issue would be the pilot bearing since it sits in the flywheel. I dont think the flexplate has provision for one.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

True. The flexplate is a piece of sheet steel.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

On the MZR the pilot bearing goes into the crank so that part is easier. Whats harder is that I'm having to make a custom bronze pilot bushing to make the V8 T5 work with the motor.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

I mostly like the raceline kit because it's 100% internal. Much less potential for **** to go wrong. Doesn't matter if it won't clear though.

I figured the clutch/flywheel problem could be solved for under a grand but the flexplate thing makes it easy. Internal hydraulic throwout bearing?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, they sell them for the T5. Finding on that is supposed to work with the Ford T5 is a little more difficult but not impossible.

The raceline kit really only saves you two hoses. You still need a tank and ****.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

I knew I'd seen another exhaust side dry sump kit besides the Pace. Just found it. They don't list it on the main description page, but if you open the duratec price list they have the two part numbers with "-IN-A" suffix and then two more part numbers with "-EX-A" suffix. I know you already have a pan but you might be able to buy all the other stuff separately.

Ford Duratec Dry Sump Kits

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Price_List/Du...ice%20list.pdf

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. I should email titan and see what they sell just the oil filter plate and pump from that kit for minus the pan. I'd have ordered that if I saw it earlier. The twin trough would be perfect.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Deets? $50 a fitting? So sexy but so $$$

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Jiffy Tite on summit. They're valved fittings that only drip a small amount when you disconnect. Will test once I get the motor swap together if the flow loss through the valve is death or not.

Still waiting for summit to ship me the offset dowel pins since it seems my motor is the problem with my alignment. I should be sending the flex plate out this week to be made into a pimp clutch. And I decided to go with the titan dry sump instead of trying to roll my own because I cant figure out a good pulley solution. Its only like $1600 minus the pan or like 2k with the pan so its not terrible, and then I dont have to worry about blowing up motors while I figure out how to dry sump.

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

I was reading the tracktuned article on the v8r 2.0 mzr swap and they said "... and according to Shandelle, not much was needed to get everything to fit, aside from a custom V8 roadsters subframe."

Are you still thinking the 2.5 might fit with the ranger pan and no power steering or do you think they have more clearance from a shorter engine being mounted higher?