X96naX

Good work bro! Never thought a proper cutoff was achievable with flush mounted lights. I'll be doing the same but with quad morimoto mini H1s.

573

iTrader: (2)

I would advise against a quad projector setup. I considered a quad setup but decided that I'd be throwing way too much light right in front of the car, reducing my ability to see distant objects. I'm glad I arrived at that conclusion because 4 projectors would have put too much light in a place where I don't need more light, cost more, and likely wouldn't have fit into the housings. I recommend going with quality over quantity and getting FXR's instead. They throw plenty of light in front of the car with 35w ballasts and produce a good high beam as well. If you want more, those Rigid Industries LED's are pretty good.

573

iTrader: (2)

I'm on spring break and home from my wild Colorado adventure so my Miata left the garage for the first time in a few months. After getting used to driving an old limousine, driving something that's quick and light feels better than ever.

Anyway, I visited three of my friends at their place of employment(a scrap yard), and got my car on the scale. 2,220 with the tank half full. Not too shabby.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Spotted this car on Woodward Friday. Parked on front of potbellys rather.

I was drooling all over it, never spotted the owner.

573

iTrader: (2)

I must have been getting a drink at Caribou at the time. I frequent that spot so we'll probably cross paths at some point.

and a brief update...
I installed a big goofy mirror not too long ago, and I also hardwired my v1 with the remote display on the steering column.

This mirror does a great job of eliminating the blind spots that the roll bar, seats, and top produce. My only complaints are that it vibrates a bit and sometimes I have to learn forwards or backwards to see traffic lights.


I ended up going home again for part of this weekend so I changed the oil, finished sealing the headlights, made an aluminium thing to help seal the intercooler and radiator to the opening in the bumper, sanded and painted the lip, and made a base tune for e85.

In going through the existing tune and putting together an e85 tune, I realized that there's a good amount of power left on the table. The previous owner didn't get very far with the tuning so the fuel was pretty much what it should be and the spark table looked like a conservative base table. Assuming the injectors aren't nearly maxed out, I should be able to make a nice bit of cheap and reliable power in doing this e85 thing..or even by sticking with 93 and tuning the timing.

and here's an engine bay pic--just for fun.

huskybruiserjr

those lights are awesome! wanna put a set of those hids in the stock location for me?

huskybruiserjr

and nice hood prop mallet! dual purpose

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

I really like the V1, I'd like to try and "hide" one in there, maybe build it into the rear view mirror.

573

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. You have no idea how many people have wanted me to build them headlights. Unfortunately, I only have access to a garage and tools when I'm home from school, and most of my limited free time goes into projects of my own.
I keep it classy.

Another benefit of that giant mirror is that the mounting points for the stock mirror can be repurposed. That's nice because suction cups would almost certainly be rattled off the windshield by rough roads and stiff suspension. I thought about trying to hide it more but I like to be able to reach the controls, laster detection is line of sight, and I switch the thing between two vehicles. All of those interfere to an extent.

573

iTrader: (2)

I went to an e85 station and nearly ran the car dry on the way, so now I have a full tank of e85, or possibly e70 because it's technically still winter. I flashed my base tune while I was at the pump, and so far, all is well.


I drove around for a while and did some pulls while running autotune in Tunerstudio and the fueling is pretty close to where I want it to be for now. That's nice but the injector duty cycle reaches a little over 90 when I get close to 7000rpm. I don't think that's anything to be worried about at the moment, but I'll definitely need to get new injectors before I can add boost. (I'd like to up the boost from 9psi to 12.) I also need to make det cans so that I can start tuning spark.

573

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmmm Do I get the Deatschwerks 600cc's or pay the extra $160 for the Injector Dynamics 1000cc's so that I'll be covered regardless of what the future has in store? Now I'm leaning towards being thrifty...

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

Get 1000's, run ALL the boost.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Very nice and clear

573

iTrader: (2)

Stock engine and tiny turbo, brehhh. As far as I know, the 1000's will only benefit me if I do something nutty like build the engine and get a 30r or baller efr turbo...and all of the supporting modifications that are required to go that route. I'm not trying to be poor so anything like that would be a ways away. The only reason I would go with the 1000's over the 600's at this point is if they have a better spray pattern or something and are consequently better across the board, regardless of my power goals.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

I think faeflora and maybe 18psi have 1000's. Fae would be using them because of insane power goals, but like you 18psi would be using them b/c he had an E85 powered car and needed bigger injectors for the job IIRC.

DontPassTheFence

I was on the same page as above; seems like several people going to retard-strength injectors in order to squirt more of that silly corn juice.

573

iTrader: (2)

I'd like to get the ID injectors because they seem to be really good injectors but 1000cc is overkill for me and probably always will be. ID also makes 750cc injectors, and those would be better for my application because they would give me more control over fueling. That said, ID injectors cost $500 new so a big factor will be what I can find for the right price.



Have some photos--fresh from yesterday.

573

iTrader: (2)

I made a few tweaks to my AFR and VE tables and let autotune do it's thing as I drove around last night. Fueling is looking good. The car ran well for the most part, but I did encounter something that is seemingly unrelated to the change of fuel. I got off the highway and pulled through first and second, and when I shifted into third, I heard a rush of air and the car had no power. My first thought was that a coupler had blown off so I pulled over to inspect. The pipes and couplers passed my visual inspection so I pressed on and was cautious at first, but eventually did a few more pulls when everything seemed to be fine. The problem never came back, although I didn't try to recreate the exact conditions that caused it before.

Assuming that all of the couplers are fine(I'll check them more closely next time I'm home and have tools), what might cause this? I'm inclined to say that it's the bpv, which is a plastic Bosch that is venting to atmosphere, but it has always seemed to work well. i r confuse.........

573

iTrader: (2)

more update. I powered through second and the same thing happened(air release noise and loss of power) when I shifted to third. It's like the blowoff valve opens but doesn't close, and it only does this when I shift from second to third. I went over all of the clamps and looked at the couplers today and everything checked out so it seems like the bypass valve is the culprit. In driving around town(at normal person speeds), I noticed that the sneeze that it makes after I let off the throttle in second gear is more drawn out than I remember it being, and certainly a lot longer than it is if I do the same thing in third.

This issue doesn't make a lot of sense to me because it didn't happen before I switched fuels, and switching fuels doesn't seem like a probable cause. If nobody has insight on this, I guess I'll just go ahead and get a nice Tial bov and hope for the best.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

Is it by any chance a BOV that you got from a DSM car? Google told me that happens to DSM BOV's.