Originally Posted by mazpr
The thread is somewhat confusing, So it is completely fixed, no piston slap anymore?
How many psi after the repair?
I'm sorry for all the confusion. I can't seem to edit the original post. To sum it all up...
12~14psi at the moment. Slowly working my way to 15psi again. Just trying to smooth out the fuel map. Since the used engine has lower compression pistons then the Miata I'm guessing the VE has changed a bit? I'm seeing my fuel curve moving towards a higher RPM. Not sure on that one. I could probably put a little timing back in due to the lower compression pistons but I'm not going to mess with it. The Protege pistons are dished about the same depth as the Miata pistons are domed. 8.9:1 maybe? Yes, the engine was replaced with a good used engine. The used engine still has a visable crosshatch which is a general indication of it's wear (or lack of). There is no more "piston slap" but it ended up not being piston slap at all. The crank pully was loose. I replaced the pully's hub because it was damaged from being loose. The used engine was torn down to a shortblock, cleaned, painted, and all seals replaced. One rod bearing was removed and inspected and looked fine so I didn't bother messing with the rest. If it works don't fix it right? Engine has Felpro gaskets/seals and a Felpro MLS head gasket. I replaced the o-ring on the heater pipe since it's a pain to get to after assembly. The head was not disassembled and was removed with intake and exhaust/turbo attached, cleaned, and placed back on the used block. The valve cover gasket was reused because it's not very old and still soft. The timing belt and pullys were reused because they only have ~10k on them. Water pump was reused for the same reason. I need to stick some new plugs in it still. BKR7ES is what I use. The drive belts are Gaterback and relatively new. The clutch disc is new and upgraded to the 8.875" MX-6 disc. The pressure plate is an Exedy. Flywheel is stock and both the FW and PP were scuffed to allow disc break-in. I'm also impulsive about using matching bolts so rest assured this engine was assembled correctly. Locktight was used where needed like flywheel bolts and oil used on head bolts ect ect. I've been turning wrenches on cars both as a hobby and professionally for 20+ years.
As for the price... I had some local guy who wanted it and had me remove the stereo, speakers, wideband, and Synaptics BOV to get the price down to what he could afford. He backed out. I've since REINSTALLED the stereo, speakers, wideband, and put on a China Greddy knock-off BOV. The guys love this one for some reason. :\ I like the Synaptics sound personally but it's a $250 BOV so I don't mind keeping it.
I should mention the T4 compressor was replaced back to the T3 because, for one, it has to spin faster to make the same PSI which actually allows the exhaust side to flow better. It'll pull flat into redline. For two, the T3 is plenty for 15psi. For three, it spools faster due to the compressor wheel being smaller. I start building boost about 2500rpm and hit 10psi by 3100rpm. This is starting off from a 5th gear roll at about 1500rpm then holding WOT and watching the gauges. When your driving the car, the boost comes back so quickly after the shifts it puts you right back into the seat again and holds you there.
There's no problem hitting 15psi in first gear except for the sudden loss of traction.
I guess the same goes for second and third. haha
I'd take $6500 cash for the car and you can drive it away crankin' your tunes and watching your a/f. For $500 more you get the P4 Dell laptop (with DVD-R and WiFi!) and Synaptics BOV.
I've put alot of time into getting this engine swap taken care of and done right so the new owner can just buy it and enjoy it.