I’m posting my 2000 Miata for sale. This car has an older Flyin’ Miata FMII turbo kit on it as well as number of other high quality modifications. It currently has ~136,800 miles on it and probably won’t go up much as it does not get driven much anymore. This is an LS model which means it has the torsen rear differential, power windows, cruise control, leather interior and a five speed transmission.
Here's a couple pictures of the car:
This car is a lot of fun, it’s a nice car with nice high quality modifications, but it is far from perfect. The price is lower than most NB turbo miatas for that reason. Since the car does have some imperfections I will list them first. The “good” list far outweighs the “bad” list, but in the interest of full disclosure I will list the bad items first and as thoroughly as I can.
The engine leaks oil. Not a lot, a couple drips overnight, but still enough to be annoying. As far as I can tell the front and rear main engine seals need replacing.
The body and paint are not in great shape. The passenger side door has a couple dents as does the passenger rear fender in front of the wheel (I’ve tried to show these in one of the pictures). The hood has some dings and some big rock chips. The front bumper cover also has some chips. The front lower lip spoiler is badly scuffed and cracked in one area. The rear bumper has a scuff. The headlights are a bit foggy. It sounds like a lot, but some paintless dent repair and a good polish/detail would go a long way. *As a note, the car looks pretty good in the pictures, but it photographs well. It doesn’t look as good in real life.
The seats are shot. The leather is cracked and split. The driver’s seat is worse than the passenger’s seat but neither are great. I’m not an upholstery guy, but the seats don’t seem fixable, at least not easily. If I were to keep the car I would look to replace them with another good condition set out of a different car. There are some other interior issues, the shift boot is torn and the carpet is dirty/stained. The leather on the steering wheel is a little worn.
The check engine light will periodically come on, usually a P1170 code. This code is for the oxygen sensor sensing a “rich condition”. I believe this is due to how the LINK is tuned. It tends to be very rich in certain conditions, and it goes outside of what the stock O2 sensor is expecting to see. This may be able to be "tuned" out with the LINK controller, I've honestly never touched the tune. I had always planned on switching over to a MS3 so I never screwed with the LINK. That said, the car runs pretty well with the LINK and stock ECU playing tag...
Okay, that is all of the issues I can think of, now onto the “good” and the modifications.
*NOTE* - The following was written for a CraigsList ad and is target at a "less" educated audience.
It has a turbo. Turbos make miatas better. Turbos make miatas faster than minivans, which is a good thing. The turbo kit on this car is an older version of the Flyin Miata FMII kit. If you don’t know anything about turbo miatas or Flyin Miata, google it now and check the website out for a few minutes, and then come back. Flyin Miata makes awesome turbo kits and are one of "the" companies to go to for an off-the-shelf, high quality, reliable turbo system.
The FMII kit is a complete kit including an auxiliary engine control unit (LINK) for re-tuning the fuel and ignition to allow the car to make good power reliably. The FMII is designed to work with a stock engine, which means it produces enough power to be fun, but is limited by the stock MAF. It also means it won’t melt a piston or bend a connecting rod from running too much boost.
This version of the FMII kit has a log exhaust manifold, a genuine Garret GT2560 ball bearing turbo, the aforementioned LINK ecu, and a second set of stock injectors and fuel rail to add the addition fuel needed when the boost kicks in. There’s also a high quality front mount intercooler, a bov, and the associated piping. Since I’ve had the car I’ve added FAB9 stainless steel turbo mounting studs and nuts for added (street) reliability and durability.
The nice thing about this turbo kit and the LINK ecu is that the car will pass emissions and OBDII checks. This car should pass NC inspections and testing without issue. It may (or may not) also pass emissions and OBDII testing in other states.
There are a number of other Flyin Miata goodies on the car, including a full turbo back stainless steel exhaust including a high flow cat. The exhaust is very high quality, quite expensive, and sounds great. It sounds good when at full bore, but it does not drone at highway speeds. The clutch is also from flyin miata, it is their “Level 2” clutch which means it can hold up 350ft-lbs of torque. It’s a bit overkill for the power level the car is currently at, but you won’t have to worry about not having a strong enough clutch.
The suspension is stock except for a set of Flyin’ Miata VMAXX Classic coil-overs. The car is currently lowered pretty significantly, a bit lower than is optimal. The “Stance” crowd may disagree that the car isn’t too low, but the suspension would probably work better if it was raised a half inch or so. As mentioned above the car has the highly desirable Torsen rear differential.
The car has A/C and powersteering and they both work great. I’m too old to have a car that doesn’t have A/C, and finding a turbo miata with good working AC isn’t always easy. I’ve added a Mishimoto high capacity radiator to help deal with the extra cooling needs added by the turbo system. I modified an OEM Honda Prelude radiator fan and shroud to fit the new radiator.
The engine in the car was replaced at some point before I purchased the car. I don’t know the exact timing, but my understanding is that the engine in the car has at least 30k miles less than the chassis. So the odometer says ~137,000 miles but the engine has closer to 100,000 miles.
Absolutely no rust. This car has always been a southern car. Florida -> Alabama -> North Carolina.
The convertible top on the car seems to be in decent condition, and does not leak. It is a bit dirty though, and could use a thorough cleaning.
I recently did some preventative maintenance and changed the following: new spark plugs, newer plug wires, new ignition coil, and new valve cover gasket.
The wheels pictured are NOT included unless you are willing to pay extra for them. I have a couple sets of wheels that can come with the car or you can bring your own. More details in the pricing below.
I’m asking $6500 for the car as pictured but with Flik Blasts wheels instead of the wheels pictured. The tires are newer BFG Goodrich Sports sized 195/55/15 with lots of tread left.
The other wheel/price options are:
Bring your own wheels and tires : $6200
14” NA6 stock wheels with crappy no-name tires : $6250
15x7” Flik Blasts w/ BFG Sports : $6500
15x7” Authentic Volk TE37s w/ BFG Sports : $7100
EVERYTHING ITALICIZED ABOVE IS FOR THE CL CROWD.
Here's the deal...I have way too many projects and way too many cars. I currently have seven (7) cars. I'm over this car and want to sell it. For my MT.net brosefs I will let this car go cheap just so I can move it quickly. No BS, no haggling, no effing around I will sell this car with the Flik wheels for $5500. No less. $5250 with the 14" oem wheels and sh*t tires. If you want the Volk wheels it's $6000 even.
$5500 is less than I paid for this car ~14 months ago and all I've done is add coilovers, a radiator, wheels/tires, and fixed most of the issues with the car. I won't take less than $5500, simple as that (unless you want the shitty wheels/tires, or if you bring your own...OK shut up it isn't as simple as that!?!!).
Car is located in Waxhaw, North Carolina. ~20 miles south of Charlotte. ~45 mins from the Charlotte airport (CLT). If someone not so local were interested in the car I would be happy to pick you up at the airport.
Also, there are a few more details of the car and my ownership of it in my build thread.... here: 8===0 Luke's "I have an EFR but refuse to use it" Build
PM or sext me. 704-nine eight nine-6545