thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Hm.... Is it effective to purchase the whole fuel line and FPR assembly from a UK Car, or a UK parts place? OEM quality, pnp?

OneTwo

iTrader: (2)

Can confirm this as fact.

I am running a UK NB1 FPR on my NA. Works perfect, tweaking required. Fits much better than a 1.6 FPR.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Just so we're clear when people gravedig this thread later for info, this is NOT an (Adjustable)AFPR. Just a 1:1 FPR.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I cannot imagine it would be worthwhile to ship a fuel line from the UK.

EDIT:

@flounder
Please let me know P/N or source for these 90* fittings:

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

I want OEM line. I don't like having hose clamps on fuel lines. I'll post the part numbers if/when I find them.

codrus

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-800-081

--Ian

codrus

Hose clamps on fuel lines are fine if you use the right clamps with the right hose on the right kinds of barbs. Generic hardware store clamps are not the right clamps, and pushing hose onto OEM hard lines that have GM-style quick disconnects is not the right barbs. The barbs on the Dorman right-angle adapters above are right, the Gates hose in the photo is probably right (can't quite see enough of it), and the right clamps are these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CU0HM

--Ian

SchmoozerJoe

iTrader: (2)

Also. The other regulator that's available here in the states...

ACDelco 217-3318

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

OK, Since the FPR is made for rubber line, one would have to suspect that the OEM return line is also made for a rubber line. Thus clamp at that location. This is low pressure, so an OEM spring clamp should work OK. Thus, using a second fuel line from a US NB1, with the angle connection to rubber with a simple clamp should be fine.

At the other end, where Flounder built a short line using rubber. You could re-purpose the long line he removed (that had the double connection) with a repair kit, and make that short line using the nylon tubing. 100% OEM. My local mechanic has the tools for that. That one is high pressure, so using the nylon tubing is probably the way to go. If you don't want to re-purpose an old line, a shop could make you one up new with proper fittings and line... No clamps.

On the fuel feed, I simply removed the fender mounted damper and put the OEM line onto the steel feed. It works, but the angle of the connector is such that the tube wants to twist. That line I may "repair".

Question to group: See my last paragraph above. If I need the 90* fitting to be at a different angle on the nylon tube, can I heat the joint and rotate the fitting, or should I cut the tubing and re-mount the fitting?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

This. ALL of this. Heed these warnings all whom enter into such an enterprise.

julio

iTrader: (4)

As for fuel lines I was thinking of having Classic Tube ( http://www.classictube.com/ ) or someone like that just make me a copy of my factory return line in 5/16" once I go E85 with my EFR. You can send them your line and they will copy the bends in whatever size you like out of whatever material you want (zinc coated steel or stainless). Nice factory push fitting ends etc. They say to just bend the longest straight section around a 5 gallon bucket, mark it on either end with tape so they know that part should be straight and they can copy it. Once one person does it they should have the program to make more for whoever wants one which would be nice for other people to not have to ship theirs to them. For that matter you could do both lines in 3/8" stainless but that's probably overkill.

If I ever get around to it I'll see if they can post a NB part # on their site.

I also thought E02K (might be wrong there) used the 5/16" NB tank to bay line off a parts car for a return. Thought he mentioned it in his build thread. Think they are close enough in layout with a bit of bending it can be made to work. I've been meaning to check the 5/16" NA return on the NA I sold back to my buddy to see if it is routed the same but I think someone on here said they were not the same. Haven't checked myself. Still waiting on TSE downpipe and Rev MS3 so not in too big of a hurry on my fuel system yet.....

codrus

Clamps and rubber hose are fine, so long as you use the right clamps and the right hose. Here's the right hose:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cel-65153

Rated to 100 psi, CARB approved not to leak fuel, meets the SAE standard, etc etc.

--Ian

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I used a parts car line for my build, not sure if E02k did or not.

I think you guys might be slightly overcomplicating this. You can buy those barbed fittings and 300 psi rated (or the 100 psi rated linked above) fuel hose at many auto parts stores. When used with the appropriate clamps, there's absolutely nothing wrong with using such a setup on even the high pressure lines. You could easily use that line to run the length of the car. Yes, ideally you would get an extra NB line since it fits in a very OEM fashion, but it's not necessary.

So, basically what Ian said.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

For my return I used a NB fuel line I stole salvaged from one of Gesso's projects. I'm not sure but I may have been one of the first folks to do this? I couldn't find anyone else who had done it before I jumped on it.

Then you've misheard us. What we are saying is DO NOT HOSE CLAMP RUBBER FUEL LINES TO NB HARDLINES. JUST DON'T ******* DO IT. They are designed for push connectors so use the correct push connectors, use the correct type of clamps to connect the correct type of fuel line to the aforementioned correct type of push connectors.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I am appreciative of the information given. I too have procured a NB1 feed line to use as my return. I now have all the info I need except, can I heat a nylon line at the fitting ang rotate said fitting?

If no one can give an answer, then I will either try it and test for leaks, or make a new line.

EDIT: This is not a good idea to do. Make a new connection correctly with fresh section of line.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

i was more referring to all the business of eliminating all clamps and having custom lines made and blah blah blah

I definitely agree with the above statement.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Are you talking about heating and bending the nylon line like Sav used? I wouldn't do that. The push connectors come in 90°, 45° and 180° (straight) versions. I think I also saw 30° ones as well? If you are using appropriate Gates or Continental reinforced hose then taking up the rest of the angle shouldn't be an issue. As for nylon hardline, not sure how that works.

Oh yeah, I gotcha. Sorry if I came on hard, I just want to make sure people stop clamping rubber hose to NB hardlines. Its not that hard to do it right and when it blows off its catastrophic. I agree that custom fabricated hardlines would be completely overkill, but would probably look cool. I really, really, really like how Andrew did his with the OEM style nylon line and OEM connectors. I wish I had know that kit existed before I did mine.

Appropriate push connectors, clamps and flexible line is fine.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

You can come hard with me anytime you want, bby.

devonthedude1234

I should be able to use an fmu with this setup right?

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

I read through this and I am a little confused...

I see in one of the early posts Flounder puts some sort ot a FPR on the front of his fuel rail, is this correct? And then in a later post he installs what I think is called an AFPR?

If these are both fuel pressure regulators, why does he need two?

My plan with my VVT motor in an NB chassis is to convert to return style, and my understanding is that with my dual feed rail the fuel goes from the tank to rail that has a dampener (but not regulator) in it. From there it goes to the AFPR, and from there to the tank. Removing the in-tank FPR of course. What am I missing? Am I correct? Any idea why I am confused?