diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
12-26-2014, 07:18 PM
#201
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on the road...
various steps of spark table "improvement"
I know the numbers aren't real, but there's a huge difference between logs!
inb4 same road, same condition, same boost: 11 psi
various steps of spark table "improvement"
I know the numbers aren't real, but there's a huge difference between logs!
inb4 same road, same condition, same boost: 11 psi
Last edited by DNA54; 12-27-2014 at 02:53 AM.
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12-27-2014, 12:42 PM
#211
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I would worry about the base timing being slightly off if I was using an aggressive timing map. Not much room for error.
Is the lpg octane RON or MON or the average?
Is the lpg octane RON or MON or the average?
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12-27-2014, 01:11 PM
#212
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When I run lpg on boost afr's are high 10's and only with ebc off (140 kPa or 5.8 psi)
in fact when I log egt's I can see that are the same as running gasoline, but with 12.5 afr
the downside is less power everywhere
There are two ways to run lpg allofit (and use the 110 octane benefit):
water/meth injection 50-50
liquid injection lpg (like vialle or icom): in this way the lpg enters in the manifold in liquid state, and his phase transition (at atmospheric pressure is a gas) absorbes heat from the sistem very quickly.
The main difference between liquid lpg injection and gasoline is that the excees of gasoline remains liquid during the combustion and becomes gas (substracting heat) only when temperature rise enough, preserving the Al of the head and piston from melting
When I have the car back on the road and tuned, I wanna try this system.
If I broke another engine, it means that w/i is a better choice. If it will survive, well, we discover a new, greener and cheaper than e85 method to run allofit
because all this is a game for me, it's only a car!
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12-27-2014, 01:26 PM
#213
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I'm not sure if it was really knock or background noises..
when I (voluntarily) caused knock at 4500 rpm (160 kpa) the knock in log was exactly the same, with no peaks, but the ecu pulled istantly two degrees of timing, and the "knock" light turned on
this was pretty strange... but with 26 degrees of spark advance at 160 kPa I'm sure the oil escaped from the bearing causing a direct-hit
the mon/ron of standard propane selled in usa is 90-110, but is 90%+ pure
what I use is 97%+.
customs laboratory checks ordinarily ron levels, and is usually 105-108
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12-27-2014, 03:07 PM
#216
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Got it
When I run lpg on boost afr's are high 10's and only with ebc off (140 kPa or 5.8 psi)
in fact when I log egt's I can see that are the same as running gasoline, but with 12.5 afr
the downside is less power everywhere
There are two ways to run lpg allofit (and use the 110 octane benefit):
water/meth injection 50-50
liquid injection lpg (like vialle or icom): in this way the lpg enters in the manifold in liquid state, and his phase transition (at atmospheric pressure is a gas) absorbes heat from the sistem very quickly.
The main difference between liquid lpg injection and gasoline is that the excees of gasoline remains liquid during the combustion and becomes gas (substracting heat) only when temperature rise enough, preserving the Al of the head and piston from melting
When I have the car back on the road and tuned, I wanna try this system.
If I broke another engine, it means that w/i is a better choice. If it will survive, well, we discover a new, greener and cheaper than e85 method to run allofit
because all this is a game for me, it's only a car!
When I run lpg on boost afr's are high 10's and only with ebc off (140 kPa or 5.8 psi)
in fact when I log egt's I can see that are the same as running gasoline, but with 12.5 afr
the downside is less power everywhere
There are two ways to run lpg allofit (and use the 110 octane benefit):
water/meth injection 50-50
liquid injection lpg (like vialle or icom): in this way the lpg enters in the manifold in liquid state, and his phase transition (at atmospheric pressure is a gas) absorbes heat from the sistem very quickly.
The main difference between liquid lpg injection and gasoline is that the excees of gasoline remains liquid during the combustion and becomes gas (substracting heat) only when temperature rise enough, preserving the Al of the head and piston from melting
When I have the car back on the road and tuned, I wanna try this system.
If I broke another engine, it means that w/i is a better choice. If it will survive, well, we discover a new, greener and cheaper than e85 method to run allofit
because all this is a game for me, it's only a car!
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12-27-2014, 03:22 PM
#217
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ehm...
tomorrow I will know if the head survived ( I hope so...), and on monday I will go to the machine shop with the spare block to see if it is usable with 84mm pistons.
If yes and yes, I can build the engine in one-two mounths
if not and yes two-three mounths
and so on
money
tomorrow I will know if the head survived ( I hope so...), and on monday I will go to the machine shop with the spare block to see if it is usable with 84mm pistons.
If yes and yes, I can build the engine in one-two mounths
if not and yes two-three mounths
and so on
money
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12-30-2014, 03:57 AM
#218
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ok, little update:
the spare block is usable with oversized +1mm supertech pistons.
The head is gone.
spare block going at the machine shop
driver side window
passenger side window
I found half of the piston with rings on it in the cylinder, but without the rod lol
my neighbour's cats this morning:
the spare block is usable with oversized +1mm supertech pistons.
The head is gone.
spare block going at the machine shop
driver side window
passenger side window
I found half of the piston with rings on it in the cylinder, but without the rod lol
my neighbour's cats this morning:
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12-30-2014, 08:40 AM
#219
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Your neighbor has a bouquet of cats as the centerpiece for his table.
That's a classic rod failure but I think the block will be fine.
A little JB Weld and some gentle honing should make it like new.
That's a classic rod failure but I think the block will be fine.
A little JB Weld and some gentle honing should make it like new.
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