DNA54

really?
I've bought it because I think is pretty much a straight pipe with two chamber, there aren't restriction of any type, all internals are 2.5", and my exhaust is 2 1/4" (60mm)
All I want now is a silent exhaust, I can't drive with that loudness anymore...
Can it flow decently or is a very bad idea to put it on?
consider that I don't have any cat, resonator, nothing at all: only a 60mm straight pipe from the turbine to the muffler


source:

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Can it flow decently? Sure. Is it optimal? Not even close. Can you get similar muffling with better performance? Yes.

The straight through Magnaflows are really what you want, that's why everyone here uses them. They're not as cheap as the "turbo" mufflers though.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

^Paid infomercial.

Look, yes, it will be quiet. Yes, it will slightly degrade performance. No, it won't be terrible. There have been plenty of quiet factory turbocharged cars that use the same style of muffler. Removing them usually makes the car spool faster and make a bit more power. But it isn't the end of the world. Just don't complain if you lose 10-15whp.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

^ yup

DNA54

well, it's a price I can pay to get a silent muffler... Thank you for the advice!

shaved, back from the machine shop





my new toy





last but not least:
bammm, surprise!!!



internal diameter is now the same as the stock exhaust...
I have 2 choices
-remove the internal metal mesh
-remove the joint and weld a straight pipe

problems, problems everywhere

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Replace with part that doesn't suck. You do typically need some flex. You may reuse the flanges and just get a flex joint that doesn't suck.

Mazdaspeeder

There is nothing straight through about that muffler in the cutaway. In fact I don't even see how the gasses get from the inlet to the outlet.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Magic.

But seriously, that's a bad angle to see it but the ends of the tubes are open right through those internal bulkheads.

DNA54

I can't get anything better in Italy, I temporarily leave it without internal mesh. If it resist, I call it a day. In the other case: rigid joint







I want the car back!!!

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

blue line shows exhaust gas route- it passes around the middle inlet. I used one for a while, but yeah it makes a mess of exhaust gasses since it just dumps into the big can.

DNA54

I will try it, if I loose too much hp on the butt dyno, I will search a better muffler
... or I will splice the exhaust in two 60mm pipes with two "turbo mufflers"

but for now, magnaflow straight muffler


some photos of the baby:





and, for lurkers, the massive compressor wheel

DNA54

new oled display



It's very cool: I don't need to delay the refresh like with the lcd one, and it's 100% visible from any condition (angolation, light/dark, etc)

DNA54

aaand: turbo muffler installed



As you all told me, I lose something on the butt dyno, expecially at high revs (over 6500)

I'm pretty curious to dyno the car with/without the muffler, to see how much I lost

DNA54

Then dna said, "Let there be track"; and there was overheat.


only one lap before hit 100°C, but the car was great!
I have a LOT to learn on a track, but next time I need at least a 50mm radiator.

Will this be ok?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/400763045502?...84.m1423.l2649

o this one is better?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/131099412197?...84.m1423.l2649

the most important thing is the slim fans: I have 2.5" intake line

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

100*C (212*F) is not overheating. That is normal. If it gets to 230*F then you must slow down and cool off.

External oil coolers are a good idea as well as the bigger radiator. I don't have any opinions about the two radiators you listed other than the fact that having a fan shroud is a good thing.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Agreed- that's not hot. I like having an oil temp gauge. Should we assume you have taken all the preliminary steps to improving the stock cooling systems as posted on this site?

DNA54

At the end of the second lap the temperature rises to 120°C (248*F)
I've only done a reroute and the radiator ducting, and on the road the maximum temperature I can see is 100°C

I really hope I can solve with a bigger core...
the oil cooler is really necessary? It's my daily car, I plan to go on track maximum 2-3 times a year

timk

I like the 20hp sticker.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

A larger core will help both in thermal capacity (more coolant volume takes longer to heat up) and in more surface area to aid in heat transfer.

An external oil cooler isn't a big deal to install if you've already done things like adding a reroute. They make a difference.

DNA54

news: if I stop the engine at 100°C around half a litre exits from the coolant tank.
Cooked head gasket? Maybe is the overheat problem cause...