droptopgokart

Ok just wired in my LC-1 i have it in the bung for my stock o2 being as my stock had gone bad anyway, I have the analog output1 pushing an analog narrow band signal to my Stock ECU, all seems good but im throwing a low voltage bank1 o2 heater circuit CEL. Is there anyway to fool my ECU into thinking that the heater circuit is still hooked up also could be me but car seemed to act a little laggy in low RPM range. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

droptopgokart

?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Not 100% sure on this, but it might be possible to simulate your heater with a resistor. If you measure the original sensor's heater wire to the body of the sensor, do you get a consistent resistance?

Of course, you know you need to move on from the stock ECU, right?

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

That wideband is going to die in the stock narrowband location.

Why not throw the stock narrowband in that location and then splice the source wire with the one from the wideband?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I believe a 100ohm 50watt resistor is the prescription which they did not stock at Fry's. As I understand it will stop the check-engine light, but it will also get fire hot.

droptopgokart

Yessir wideband was my first step, about to be ordering an aem FI/C, and boomslang harness, I have two red top rx-7 injectors I just need two more then to all the fun stuff manifold, and downpipe from arctech and sr20 turbo, just looking for some mild power nothing crazy

droptopgokart

I thought inbetween manifold and cat was optimal location... is this not true?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

You want it to be as close to the cat as possible.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

You want it right in front of the cat flange ( 2-3" before it)

Having it right after the turbo will destroy it.

As Hustler said the resistor will get hot as all hell too.

droptopgokart

Thanks guys talked to my exhaust guy, he said he would weld in the bung for pretty cheap, and i'm not turbo'd quite yet so maybe it'll hold up until I get a chance to get new bung, I jumped on my laptop and changed up the narrow band signal a little "to 1V @ 13.7 instead of Default 1.99 at 14.8" seemed to help with the roughness a little since ive always heard miata's run a little rich stock.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Maybe, if not you're looking at a 65 something bucks sensor.

droptopgokart

thats not bad just about the same as the stock, which is what I was trying to get around paying for another new one by running off wideband lol