b0ne

Parts look great! I need to get myself one of those eventually.

If you want to maintain a nice Al finish, hit it with some of this stuff immediately after blasting (and once in a while, I guess): Gibbs Brand lubricant

Most people use glass bead, works faster than walnut, etc. (although walnut is great for stripping paint without changing the texture of the metal under). Glass beads should also leave a smoother finish than sand.

Harbor Freight Tools

Wish they had medium and fine grit, though, this is all they got. Can order elsewhere also, obviously. Bonus with glass beads is they are usually silica-free. Silicosis = FTL.

ETA: I was planning to use this place for the cabinet kits and media when I build my own: http://www.tptools.com/dg/142_Abrasi...ters-Kits.html

Question: did you do any degreasing, etc. before blasting? I wonder how hard it would be to take off the remaining oil stains.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Glass bead FTW. I get mine for free from the big commerical blaster here. He has a 100' x 80' building that is just blasting. He does everything up to semi trailers. Moves the glass bead around in piles with a payloader. It's piled 8 feet high up against three walls so whenever I'm low I stop by with a five gallon bucket.

SolarYellow510

Not as hard as unplugging the blast cabinet when all the grit is packed together with oil. Gotta degrease first.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I saw the title of this thread and thought you had taken the sandblaster to some body panels or something. Maybe CR.net style.

TheArkitekt

very nice! just be sure to clean everything extensively as said before. Lost an engine in a vintage car once because of this exact problem

Reverend Greg

iTrader: (3)

I would port the whole turbo while it is out,just dont touch the areas where the blades "touch".Smoothing casting marks and smoothing out the flow path will help your boost repsonse.
-G-